I was reading the FAQ section for Engine Ice and one of the questions was "How often do I need to change it and are there any special requirements?"

Their answer is "Most every coolant product will work best when changed somewhat regularly…at minimum, we’d recommend once a year." which I found a bit surprising.

On the motorcycle I typically change the coolant every 3-4 years and now I'm curious how often everyone else does the old dump n' flush.

Non-Glycol Racing Coolants once a year for me.

I run Maxima Cool-Aide buy concentrated around $12 for 16oz makes 4 gallons.

Although I do not need any freeze protection.

I always keeps a few gallons of filtered/soft water on hand and only takes
a few minutes to dump and refill.

For longer maintenance period switch back to glycol based coolant and
mix at "lower rate" for better cooling and rate to freeze protection as needed.

On the motorcycle I typically change the coolant every 3-4 years and now I'm curious how often everyone else does the old dump n' flush.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/2/2018 @ 2:53 PM *

There are corrosion inhibitors in coolant, and they wear out.

Every other winter for me and this isn't the one (changed last year).
This winter is for valve and tb check, fork oil and steering head bearings, new front brake pads. New cha9in and sprockets last fall. Oops I mean autumn.

I thought this video was interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=FIoc5HtacVs

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/28/2018 @ 8:57 AM *

You can change coolant ????

Mad

I know someone who has never done it on his 8 or 9 bikes he owns, one 10 years old.

I think his multimeter would just say, "CHANGE ME NOW, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!"!

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/28/2018 @ 9:16 PM *

Every 7500 miles when I pull of the fairings for the maintenance checkup, but I put in new spark plugs per the maintenance schedule too - sooooooo. I read on the internet they never need changing. But I also like taking all of this really cool stuff apart too - can't wait for the valve check and set tear down!!

Do I need to ever change the fork oil or is that a waste of time too?

Do I need to ever change the fork oil or is that a waste of time too?

Rook, that video you posted while interesting I'm skeptical as my first thought was that a reading would vary depending on the type of coolant and block/engine material. I was also thinking that this test probably wouldn't give a great indication of the health of the coolant as other factors such as pH and other additives that might not change the conductivity of the antifreeze wouldn't be checked. Lastly I was wondering why he would use the 20v range on his multimeter to measure something that is less than 1v when his meter clearly has a 2v range which would be perfect for this test.

cruderudy, you're supposed to change the oil at some point, I'm not good about it so don't ask me for intervals. What I have read is it seems to be a topic of debate where some people change it frequently and others never. The oil gets "consumed" as the forks cycle and a thin film of oil is left behind, it gets dirty and will change viscosity over time.

When I changed the oil on my zx9 to replace the fork seals the old oil was nasty. It looked nearly black, smelled kind of funny and the viscosity was not quite water but much thinner than the new oil I put back in.

Might be interesting to test, keep some notes on your own coolant numbers right before
you flush and after a few times and see if there's any correlation with the numbers.

I flush coolant annually, I don't use any antifreeze.

Fork fluid every 12-18 months.

Rear shock rebuild I usually shoot for 2 years. Haven't rebuilt the 14's rear yet, I guess
it's time since it's 6 years old. Now added to my maintenance list.

* Last updated by: piken on 5/31/2018 @ 8:41 AM *

Rook, that video you posted while interesting I'm skeptical as my first thought was that a reading would vary depending on the type of coolant and block/engine material.

Might be interesting to test, keep some notes on your own coolant numbers right before
you flush and after a few times and see if there's any correlation with the numbers.

yeah, like that.

Old thread, I know.
I finally figured out how to remove my fairing without breaking bits off. It was the "push-pin rivet holding the rubber panel on the right side.
I bought my Bike with 1 mile on it and have never taken it to a Dealer for any kind of repair.
Popped off the radiator cap and the a nice Green looking coolant appears, but the stuff that drained out very dark.
I only have 25,000 miles but lots of heat cycles in 6.5 yrs.

* Last updated by: doubleD on 10/8/2019 @ 6:17 PM *

doubleD, wow that's some pretty nasty looking coolant, the color of the red container is probably making it look darker than it is but the stuff I drained out didn't look nearly as bad as what you have there.

the color of the red container is probably making it look darker than it is

Would almost say that would be the main reason for the dark appearance butr I'd have to see it in real life. Red and green are the only wavelengths being reflected but they are also absorbing one another at the same time. The result is black.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/10/2019 @ 6:39 AM *

What color was it when you flushed it down the toilet? NO JK don't flush it down toilet!!

You don't happen to have a red toilet do you?

I changed mine at the 1st scheduled service at 7500 miles. If seemed green,clean and normal and I tested it with the hygrometer and it was well within spec for cold/hot range capability but I changed it anyway. I flushed twice with distilled H2O also then changed with Yami alumicool and after the swap the average temp is a bit hotter than before the change. I tried to make sure the air was all out but on a hot day in SoCal the temp can be 212-215 when before the flush and change I never saw a temp higher than ~ 208 F

I just go by the book.If I see 'tufts' in the reservoir,I change it.With motul coolant.Think I've only changed it once so far with 28K on the bike.Coolant looked fairly okay,except for 'tufts' in the res.My engine RARELY gets even close to 200.Sometimes idling on an 80 degree day...but that's not often here.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/9/2019 @ 8:55 PM *

I change mine about every three years. The coolant I have in there now is 5 years old. It tested to -36 F last week.

I'll bet the coolant will last for ever. Changing is more to get rid of scale or whatever junk builds up in there over time.

If you flush with distilled water, be prepared to adjust the mixture of the new coolant after it is circulated in the motor. There will be a lot of flush water left in there and it will dilute the fresh coolant significantly. I try to adjust mine right away but I've had to richen it more a couple weeks later. After I get it right, it seems to float 4 balls every year I test it until I change it again someday.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/10/2019 @ 6:47 AM *

One of the automotive shops I have used explained that its not just a matter of the temperature rating (antifreeze to water ratio) but also the ph level of the mix and the anti-corosion/scaling/etc additives that are in the coolant as well that should be checked and maintained.

OK a follow up pic. New stuff is Prestone.

Designed for and safe for AL right?

OK a follow up pic. New stuff is Prestone.

Wow! ...and the old stuff in the clear cup looks almost as dark as it does in a red container. That seems strange. The stuff that comes out of my Gen1 is the same color as it was when it when in. Any chance there could be some part contacting the coolant that has made some rust?