This just arrived in the post, tastey or what ? Found it on eBay, at a wreckers, in a binned 14, $550 AUS$, a new one I'm told is $1900 AUS$.
It will give me my desired rear end lifted ride height adjustment, ( check out the bottom of the shock, blue lock nut & thread ) quicken the conservative front end, & get a better overall handling bike for the road.
I'll get it serviced & installed shortly. Together with a front end upgrade.
Question :- I only ride on the road ( solo mostly ) & push a bike pretty hard, any recommendations on Spring weights, & generally what to ask for at the front end from an Ohlins specialist ?
Thanks guys.

* Last updated by: banknyank on 3/23/2016 @ 10:32 AM *

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Awesome Shock congrats! I dont think I will ever find the limit of the stock equipment but I did notice the front end was a bit conservative compared to other SS bikes I have owned. We shall see how she handles after I drop over 30lbs off the stock exhaust soon.

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Sweet find indeed !!!

sweet shock!

[quote]Question :- I only ride on the road ( solo mostly ) & push a bike pretty hard, any recommendations on Spring weights, & generally what to ask for at the front end from an Ohlins specialist ?
Thanks guys.

That must be the bargain of the year! New Ohlins kit is very expensive and over priced IMO. No doubting the quality but there's other suspenders as good for less $£@.

You shouldn't have to ask an Ohlins (or any suspension) specialist for anything. Just tell him your weight and riding style and he should pretty much know what spring rates and damping range you need. JMO

Whats the Ohlins part number on your spring?

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That's a steal and a very nice piece to ad to the bike. If you have the skills to wear your tire out to the edge, you will probably notice some improvement.

I'm not up on spring rates but you can have a look at this pic and determine something from the number on the spring. Mine was resprung stiffer and it seems to handle well. I'm 190-210 lbs and 6'2".

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Pegscraper was right about Ohlins reps.. Just call and give them your info.. They will generally put you spot omn or give you options if you are close to the limits of one vs another.

Thanks guys, same meat different gravy then Rook, we're pretty similar in size / weight, here's the numbers on mine. I notice yours has a 105 in there, mine has a 100. As a total guess, I read somewhere about rear Spring weight measured in say :- 10kg per mm of compression, so yours at 10.5 would be stiffer than mine at 10 flat ? MAYBE.
What sort of riding do you get up to Rook ?

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Spring Length Chart

1093 - 150 mm - 5.9"

1091 - 160 mm - 6.3"

1092- 170 mm - 6.7"

* Last updated by: wfozx14 on 3/24/2016 @ 7:04 PM *

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looks like you have a 571 lb. spring. I think you'll be fine with your spring. I'm around 225 lbs. and I'm running a 542 lb. spring. Roads in my area go through a freeze thaw cycle every year and unfortunately end up rather bumpy. If my roads were smooth I'd consider a 571.
Biggest thing to check after installing is rider sag, my rear shock is set at 32 mm, front forks are set at 38mm. That's what feels balanced to me, and not to harsh of a ride.

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Thanks WFO, that's just the info I need at the moment, perfect.
Yea the roads in my place seem to only get worse as time goes by, less money to spend on them I guess. Certainly ain't no race track.
The sag would be with your good self sitting on the bike I guess ?
Nearly all the time I use a rear Ventura rack / bag on the bike with wet weather gear / tools / tyre repair kit etc so I need to allow for those kg,s hanging off the back too, I was thinking of going up to a 105 rear Spring as Rook is using. Cheers

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What sort of riding do you get up to Rook ?

Plenty of ordinary commuting in town and on highway. I have no complaints with stock suspension for that once it is tightened up. Sport riding is mostly twisties and freeway ramps. This is where I found the stock suspension to rather floaty allowing moments of uncertainty while entering a corner but I feel that is totally coming from the forks, not the rear shock. The Ohlins forks are predictable which might be a big plus for more severe cornering. I had the stock suspension for my two track days however and it seemed to be more or less adequate for my hardest riding which I would not attempt on he street. If you are the Aussie who posted the tires worn to the edge a few weeks ago, what I do on the street probably seems pretty mild to you.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/24/2016 @ 8:01 PM *

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I was thinking of going up to a 105 rear Spring

I would really be surprised if you need anymore spring. My sag is set without any extra preload turned in. Get it installed and check your numbers. Go overly stiff with your shock and not upgrade your forks and you may end up handling worse than your all stock set up. Balance between front and rear is important, having the shock out perform the forks will have you scratching your head wondering why you spent money on a new shock.

The sag would be with your good self sitting on the bike I guess ?

Correct, rider sag is you and your riding gear. Search the net for Dave Moss, he's a suspension guru and shares his knowledge.

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Yep, fully intend to get the forks re sprung / valved to match the rear, as you say both or not at all.
Your getting it down n dirty there Rook, good man. ! Yep was me with the tyre photo & talking about getting the arse end raised for quicker steering & more ground clearance, this Ohlins shock has all the benefits going for it.

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Here's a comment on another thread going at this time.

The disadvantage to Ohlins forks is that you can't raise them very much. Like an eighth inch and that's all. Also, the torque spec for the lower clamp is about 7.25 ft lbs and that makes me afraid to try wheelies. Many people go with Ohlins internals and stock tubes which is cheaper and seems safer to me. The weight difference is within a couple ounces. If you're into bling though, why have Ohlins if it looks stock? That's a lot of money to forgo the bling.

Sounds like you're planning on going with Ohlins internals which has more advantages than just cost. Traxion Dynamix and Race-Tech also do internals but since you have the Ohlins shock, might as well stick with The same for forks.

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Correct, rider sag is you and your riding gear. Search the net for Dave Moss, he's a suspension guru and shares his knowledge.

This tutorial shows how I set up my stock Gen1 suspension. With a couple adaptations, the same procedure could be used for an Ohlins suspension. You will find a link to the Dave Moss video I found most helpful in the beginning of this tutorial. I think there are other Dave Moss suspension videos on Youtube.

SUSPENSION TUNING SOLO METHOD

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Appreciate all your input Rook, your a patient bloke, been here b4 for others I'm sure. I'm not looking at Ohlins forks complete, just an upgrade & correct set up. Happy Easter.

* Last updated by: banknyank on 3/25/2016 @ 6:09 PM *

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Thanks, Bankyank. Happy Easter to you tomorrow Down Under.

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WOW, WOW & WOW is all I can say.
Went for my first ride yesterday with my suspension upgrades, with a dozen or so mates, on a Friday, less traffic, less attention from others shall we say, after a few very minor tweaks on the clickers she's a delightful thing in the mountains / twisties. Spot on.
Previously I was reading on this forum about steering dampers, I surely can forget about needing on of those now she's not bouncing off lumps n bumps any more, but soaking them up in her stride, like a different bike. That stability gain, despite, now having different geometry, ie the back end being lifted via the adjuster on the bottom of the rear shock, quickening the sedate standard steering.
A win, win scenario.
All up I've spent $550 on the second hand rear Ohlins shock from a wreckers & $900 getting it serviced / installed together with the front end re sprung / re valved, $1450 Aus or a grand $US.
MONEY VERY WELL SPENT, making me happy & safe, pushing along as we do.

* Last updated by: banknyank on 4/15/2016 @ 3:56 PM *

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Put this set of bars on too, more leverage in the tight stuff, more upright ride for my stuffed tradie,s back, happy with them also. Bit of work to install tho, all the body work off, to avoid getting brake / clutch fluid on anything, re route wiring a bit, install longer braided front brake line & bleed thru, Laminar Lip add on screen about to go on for some wind diversion.

* Last updated by: banknyank on 4/15/2016 @ 3:21 PM *

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