Hey Dogo....check out the tread pattern on those tires...this may sound really stupid,but aren't both tires' tread supposed to be going the same way?Look at those chevrons on the front there.OPPOSITE direction?yes?Is that NORMAL?I've never seen opposing treads like that.Guess they are purposely designed like that.Hmmmm....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/5/2011 @ 2:31 AM *

Ohh, sorry Hubster.... was I thinking out loud????? No harm, no foul....

Dogo - Nice pics! Wonder how long that dude has been pedalin' around on that thing??? Plates are up until May 12????

Grn14 - that's a great sight that big beautiful black ninja sitting there in the flesh! Hopefully we can get your take on your's when it's sittin' in your garage real soon!!

I don't expect to be able to give a ride report...not now.BUT....ya....LOTS of pics!!

Hub - that's a sweet vid, but it's not the current gen ZX10 - wrong dash and the new ZX10 doesn't have a frame around the windscreen...

Cool Grn - Can't wait!

Noted, BW. I too, noticed the date on the video. I was more watching the Tuono wheelie at about the 6 minute mark. I was just saying, mother K has that electric note going. It's all about that digital tone.

I hear ya Hubster - that guy was smooth on the twist...

* Last updated by: bigwilliezx on 11/5/2011 @ 3:59 AM *

bigwilliezx wrote:

"You can't remove the subs as in the pre '12 bikes, KTRC uses them to control wheel spin... You posted that yourself up above Hub - I'm pretty sure getting rid of the subs will cause problems with the traction control system sooner or later!!!"

Big, you just have to look at the KTRC on the C14 because there is way more knowledge about traction control there since they've had it a while. Or at the ZX10R.

KTRC (both the ZX10R version and the C14 version - they are different) uses the secondary butterflies to control rear wheel spin/slip.

Take the flies out, UhOh, KTRC tries to close the flies and nothing happens. CRASSSHHHHHHHHHHH......

Best solution? Guhl, Dynotronics, ECunleashed, someone to reflash the ECU to open the secondaries early and keep them open to redline. Same as having flies out. But if the KTRC wants to close them, voila, they are closed, because KTRC gets to override the secondary map in the ECU.

* Last updated by: privateer on 11/5/2011 @ 5:38 AM *

I thought the tail says ZX14R on the 2012's?

There are 4 modes:

1. Rain; Probably the least torque setting. Ign and fly work together. 1st gen sub move.
2. Street; Privvy, do you see the flash modes already? Street is like a lagging sub that stays up with the throttle 2nd gen style sub move.
3. Sport; This is like taking a wire off the GPS to tre it, thus begins to toggle in the faster fly code.
4. Stock; Here is you hack setting. Here is your flies removed setting. You cancel out the mode switch. That to me is a squidswitch. You boys and girls play with the clutch bang and the mode my fly; zip you up and down I will!

Ya Evil1...I thought so also.Those raised letters are removable...very easily.Probably just pulled the R off.

Right-o Priv - but I think the 14R KTRC programming/execution leans more towards the ZX10 - maximizes acceleration, whereas the C14's system is there as a safety net not for scootin' her down the road faster! But the same still stands - removing the flies is a mod of the past with this one... Sure there will more than likely be some electronic work around sooner or later, but your flies will still be in there... IF - you want it all to work like from the box...

From what I was reading the KTRC only uses the sub throttles in mode 3 (the most aggressive setting???) the other two are ign timing only... so that shouldn't be to hard for some techno weenie to work with?!!

HUB?....Oh HUB!!!!Where for art thou?

BW, I think they said they incorporate the 3-wise men [ign/sub/fuel] to cut in any switch mode. To my understanding, the brochure is mentioning they use this system, other factories use only ing/fuel cuts. I would assume, you cut ignition, you also cut fuel. Where as the other manufacturers do not use the subthrottle systems, have the actuator system, but did not exploit it like Kawi does now. The manual will have details as to who to troubleshoot, but not necessarily shown to you. It is more you find it at the wire harness blowout.

Hmm... again, I was only going off of the info that you posted to start this tread Hub...

BW, Stick around. We are going to hot rod this puppy. If I smoothed the tune out on this gen bike... Just you wait! Your 14 right now does not run like mine. I know a stock out of the crate tune. Same as you knowing the same mods like a pipe and pc will do wonders to the performance. I'm after transitional smoothing. There is a balance to the cylinders and the book is the read. Once you open the page is there a shit load that book does not explain in so many words.

Then, all of a sudden... Meguyveer!

Then, all of a sudden... Keep mother teapothe fuck out of my business!

Shewinkeyshe's a runner NOW!

I hear ya Hub, but what does the tune of my current bike have to do with the new bike's KTRC???? Like I said, going off of what YOU posted.

BTW - my bike ran smooth as hell stock and still does... Jus' sayin'

BTW - my bike ran smooth as hell stock and still does... Jus' sayin'

BW,

There are a lot of guys on here that mod up. I run bone stock. The only difference between your tune and my tune is you should ride my bike before you say smooth is you. Say yes or no. Have you sunk your throttle bodies? I'm trying to get you on the same page I am on.

If you say, no I have not yet, or no, it has never been touched by cam change or by sync scheduling in the owner's manual, say we say no. Then, if that is the case; You say 2 may toe, I say tow mod doe, lettuce call the whole think about it. That is all I'm saying about this smoothing business.

I'm going to give you the business, someone is going to tell me I can't get that bike smoother than [that] out of the crate tune don't bet me. You'll lose. I am that cock key fob beer and that is the bet. A beer. If you rode mine, You'd fall asleep on it. If you rode this in the crisp pee morning, your head would be bobbing looking for the lag gear year on is dot you in the mirror.

You say tomato, I say...

BW, KTRactionReaction for R... We here at key risp pee cream gear rage, do not implement the ski weed buttons or the no-no-no you don't tell me how to ride on watt wheel. Nor, do you see me use is the rear applicator of the right foot control arm. I'll never know either functions. Weedunt need no stink'inn X-tre parts on said bike. We weed out the garden sorta speak:

Mode 1. This is the rain mode. I got caught in the rain the other day. Imagine I am hauling on that water to get out of the rain. I blip the throttle, I can't break it loose. I'm doing this for grins mind you. How much whip it up can I do in the wet with this bike? I've got something in my throat I get a taste of adrenaline and that fat painted stripe now all in the reflecting my front wheel skids over it. I'm pumping it down is more like it, here comes the stop sign. I shook that one off, blew a foot over the line to stop. My timing is going, I kept going.

Mode 2. Street Mode? Those are most of the mods. I hear some piper cub fairy dust will make more HP, we change the OEM air cleaner. I hear you lose HP. Call this mode street switch. Down on HP on the street no less. Where you want all of it at any moment you have no clue the calls one gets while driving. I'll get. Stay there, mode street?

Mode 3. Sport Mode? Sport mode? What is sport mode? Is that some map that is above mode 4? Again, you see me mode'ding up?

Mode 4. Shut off See? Sea of switch is to know where are we? We are full 120 pounds of torque. Where am I? Switch me the twitch off is on now. I'll blow front wheel chops, I need the back wheel to take over my chop? That chop can't take me over the bars it takes over, yes or no? My chop can take me over the bars. Do I need a [chopping block] of die my diodes? Now the bike tells me how to stop, pull my chain?

* Last updated by: Hub on 11/7/2011 @ 8:11 AM *

Hub - you maybe right on the smoothing biz... Mine has never been sync'd, but then again, it's smooth enough that I never felt it needed it... All I know is, it fires very quickly cold or hot, settles into a smooth rumbling idle (courtesy of the CT Duals) doesn't hunt around like some that I have heard... pretty smooth to me, but like you said, I've never heard or rode yours...

Check out the Kawi ZX-14R site videos (particularly the one with RG explaining the system) - get back to me on the KTRC modes...

Very simple. Your limit is your limit. That KTrackReact may be hampering my drive. It may be like the first gen sub/actuator move. It limps your average rider. If I hammer out of the corner, I don't want that thing interfering with that raggedge I am on. We may meet in the middle and I don't need the back end going all whaa-whaa like a gyro. I've seen the bmw's unload out of turns. You have these pro's coming out of corners with the race mode switch on and the back end loads, unloads, you see these kids stay in it.

Yeah, I get what you are saying, but we might be knocking on one of those switches and why would I need it if I don't brake traction, I'm right there, no mode needed. As soon as I let the clutch out it chirps. As soon as I accelerate, that R better rip it hard or we are not there yet. I seen no/hear no/witness no peenom yet.

The bacon saver? Get me on that pile. Bet me I don't tag a bacon strip is more strip it off some tires front and rear. It's a bacon saver no doubt, BW. I'm going to tweak that R for REALLY SMOOTH. I was not impressed with the sub system. It is smoother, but there are a lot of steps to smoothing.

There is a very fine line to finding this R smoothing. I'll know come show time. Looking at all the right places. Making notes in the head so there is no trail of watt I can and cannot do.

Hub - you maybe right on the smoothing biz... Mine has never been sync'd

We are in the catbird's seat as to how smooth you can get 4 cylinders humming. Your 14 is not even close to being smooth. See, you still have the factory setting. You never need to touch it. It is preset at the factory. You either have to know someone at the dealer can tune your bike by the book or they inspect the sync, send the one screw back to center and she is done.

That is smooth running. No rebuild of the throttle body was needed, meaning, no need to touch anything else but the one sync screw. That is more like flat-rate'ing the tune. No tamper with the factory setting, just the one wear point that usually spirals out from vibration or shot peeing that tip and arm on each other. There is your wear.

There is a mmHg number that is the blueprinted number you aim for. Say one cylinder is out and it reads, 270mmHg. Book calls for 293mmHg (+/- 10%). Now, this R is going to say how to set the sync, what or how the IAC (idle air control) sensor will address the rest. I haven't a clue yet.

If I have to stay within a parameter of some vacuum pull, yes, I can get it to run smoother come the first service. I'll blueprint it is all. Nothing I can do. Unless there is a meguyveer trick someone figures out. There are some sharp 14 owners, so electrically, they'll solve a thing or two on the bike. I'll be destroying mine to find out. My emission plugs came in for the aprilia sync tuning tool. Bike runs fine by ear right now, so who cares. That's the fun part of modding/tricking an IAC.

As for sync-ing, I verified this with both my tech (who is a guru compared to even Hub) and the tech guys on COG who tear C14s down to bare frames at National Events just to show each other how it all works.

They all agree, from the factory, the throttlebodies are sync-ed as good as you could ever get them. If you don't change anything, they will stay that way. They won't get out of sync just from the engine being run, like old British cars used to (I had to sync my trip-Deuce carbs on my E-Jag like once a week).

One thing the COG folks found, after tearing one C14 down, they must have knocked one of the screws putting the TBs back on, and then had to take it back down to get the TBs out because it vibrated something awful (compared to normal). After they sync-ed them, the vibration went away.

Hubster - I'm sure you'll get her all figured out sooner or later... When you do, post up in the HOW-TOs how u do, so we can do 2!!!! Talked to my dealer today and was told that they would get 14Rs in by the end of this month and were going to be pricing them at $13,999 - since I bought my current bike from them and intend to get the new on from them as well, he told me that they would cut me a deal off that even... Let's see what kind of deal when I come with the $$$$... If it's as good as it gets, I'll rider' stock like for a while waiting for the aftermarket and gurus to figure out which ways to maker her better...

Priv - I'm right there with ya... I have no idea how much smoother Hub's bike is over mine... but if it is that much smoother, it must be a nice ride kinda electric feelin'. When mine had the stock pipes on it, I lost the sound as soon as I closed the garage door, with the CTs I feel it all the way upstairs, but still not a vibey ride on the street... I think Kawi did pretty good - bike has a history of being a smooth ride already - legendary....