whatcha Think

Hey Romans, I hope you're kidding. You know the lever is only a couple feet away no matter what caliper you're doing, right? Unless you want them just cause they say they're faster in which case I might have to start calling you Rook Jr.. But seriously, if they want to make bleeding brakes truely easier; come up with something that keeps the damn fluid from getting all over the damn place. I use a rubber tube into a cup but it's inevitable - brake fluid everywhere, and man does that shit dry my hands to chit!

Ha!! I was looking at the Speigler videos for these yesterday myself.. Now thats funny. I think they are pretty cool, but then again, I have never done brakes on a bike.

cause they say they're faster in which case I might have to start calling you Rook Jr.

You Funny,,,. I want the pump but I can't see spending the doe. May only use once and it would just sit in the corner like all the other cool Gizmos I thought I had to have. U know, like that Mr T Van of yours, lol. WE Don't Need It. Take a step back.

but then again, I have never done brakes on a bike.

Then these would help. Just something new to make things easier. Wait, Air in the lines from the install. ok, stupid.

I installed them on my ZX-9 and absolutley loved them and plan to install them on my ZX14 including the clutch. When the fluid starts to look cruddy, even mid season, it makes the job super duper simple. They also supply a piece of what I believe is surgical tubing to connect to the bleeder so you wont make a mess.

* Last updated by: danfzx14 on 4/21/2011 @ 7:12 PM *

To me they look like a great invention. Can certainly see the advantages, one of the biggest pitfalls when bleeding brakes especially to the inexperienced is commonly referred to as drawback. Drawback is when the bleed nipple is not closed in time and the action of the returning master cylinder draws the fluid backwards through the bleed nipple and reintroducing air into the system. These nipples with the one way valve actually make good sense.
But is it a new Idea? NO.
They were around years ago. When drum brake systems were the norm they had residual line pressure valves in the system, which helped prevent drawback from occurring. Then along came disc brake systems residual line pressure valves were no longer required and drawback became an issue especially on larger systems. So bleed nipples with one way valves were introduced on some vehicles to counter this phenomenon. Although I still believe they were a good idea in practice they caused more problems than good. Brake fluid as you are all aware is hygroscopic, which means it readily attracts & absorbs moisture (the main reason we change it out at regular intervals) The combination of residual amounts of brake fluid attracting moisture out of the atmosphere and together with general road grime etc makes for a great recipe for corrosion to set in, once the ball & seat in the nipple start corroding they either don't seal or they jamb and then well the fun and games start. So these nipples quickly disappeared and the buddy brake fluid bleed method was largely adopted by the industry and still is the most preferred method.
Pressure bleeders are good but generally are cumbersome and messy.
Vacuum bleeders work well but if care isn’t taken can cause cavitations in the fluid and introduce air also.

Sorry guys an extract from the book of Brenny, didn’t mean to preach

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0faaWnZJ3Y

Buy the time you pull that out of the package, install all you nipple pinchings; I'm already out the door with all your trick milk extractors, springa-dings, paint bubbling off the tank, just gotta have it up the ass let me bend over so you can install it easier.

Did my fronts and clutch (new SS lines) last night. All you need is a Solo plastic party (beer)cup, a couple feet if 1/8-1/4" rubber line, and a 8mm or 10mm boxed end wrench. Put a bit of fluid in the bottom of the cup so the end of the rubber tube is submerged place wrench on bleeder, place tube over end of bleeder, fill reservoir, pump lever and hold, crack open bleeder w/wrench, bubbles come out of hose in fluid, close bleeder, let out lever, repeat until no bubbles come out of tube in cup. At first you need to get the air out of the rubber hose before you can really tell if it's coming out of the brake line itself. Just move you way out to the last bleeder in the line. Now if you can do this without spilling the cup all over the dang place or spilling when filling the reservior then you're doing excellent! Oh and remember to keep an eye on that reservoir to keep it topped off. The clutch res is especially small and empties quick!

ANY OTHER way of bleeding brakes is just as big of a pain in the ass and almost guaranteed less effective. This is the most straightforward way to do it. Anything else is just over kill. Speed bleeders don't hurt but not necessary. Vaccum pump seems like a smart way to do it but never works completely, you'll always end up doing it the cup way in the end to get that firm pedal.

BTW. this is my first set of SS lines and all I got to say is holy stiffie batman!

The way I use a vacuum bleeder is like this:

1) I take the cap off the reservoir, and attach the vaccum hose to the left caliper bleeder nipple. I open the nipple, and pump the vacuum piston and it draws air and fluid into the attached catch bottle. Every so often I top the reservoir off.

2) Once that quits pumping bubbles, I close that nipple and go do the right caliper. Remember, I have a 2-line setup, each caliper is directly connected to the master cyclinder at the lever, with a 2-hole banjo bolt.

3) I then go the master cylinder at the lever, attach a 12" section of clear tubing to the nipple there, and hold the end over the reservoir. Then I just pump the lever until it quits spitting air.

Takes about five minutes. Ten if the hose slips off the nipple a couple times (over time, you have to nip the hose off because it stretches after you use it a few times).

You can do the whole deal without anything but a long length of clear hose of small enough diameter to fit on the nipples and stay on, a big bottle full of DOT4, a clean catch bottle, and doing it in the right order.

Some speed bleeders and some Galfer Chromes to take the Edge off.

I have heard at least one good review on those bleed valves. If they cost $25 20$ why not? If they don't work, they will get tossed out. they look nicer than stock. Nice little detail but IDK if they could really be any faster. Never had a problem bleeding with stock bleeds and if you have the end of the tube in a bottle immersed in the fluid that was sucked out, you can't suck air back in no way no how.

I wouldn't buy a special vacupump unless you start bleeding every month or more.

I have heard at least one good review on those bleed valves.

Two now. Brother Loves them. Fast and easy. No more arm stretching. Made the Galfer line up grade fast and simple. They were just a bit longer than stock.

LOL, I didn't know there was a trick bleeder nipple called a "Speed Bleeder". Back in the day, a speed bleeder was a vacuum or push bleeder tool, because before them we just pumped the damn pedal until it worked right.

You know, back when Henry Ford first created his assembly line for the Model T ?

Hey, Rook. What size tube is that you are using in your picture?

Castix

That tube was purcased at Home Depot plumbing dept. I am pretty sure it was labeled 1/8 inch clear vinyl tubing. It was the smallest tubing they have for plumbing applications. It works well on all the bleeds except I have one on the front left caliper that the damn thing falls off of if I am not careful to keep it pushed on.

Awesome. Thank you, sir.

I also have two sets of them and they stay in the tool box. There is nothing taking the place of a Mity-vac when it comes to bleeding brakes or clutch lines.