Hubster, I was installing a set of 4 into 1's this weekend and was having a tough time keeping all four of the new exhaust gaskets in place while stabbing the header. As soon as I'd get em all up there, one would drop out, then another due to the way the exhaust port is angled downward....frustrating. I was reluctant to use grease as I wasn't sure how that would affect the seal quality. Ended up using loctite copper anti-seize and I still had one shift slightly. If the gasket moves it blanks off part of the exhaust port disrupting exhaust gas flow and creating a potential leak....not good! I know you got a trick for this one!

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/13/2009 @ 9:52 AM *

Trick is dab of silicone on the back, tape it so it sets up and not fall out. Sip a few or watch the 65year old beat the competition on Pinks for a few minutes to say 15 mins. The more time, the more you can bump them all over the place and it will be rubberized in place.

Once you squeeze what is little to be squeezed is use very little silicone, she burns out and you can fluff what is left if you replace the squashed gaskets. If you have to many pipe R&R's, being the oil pan you wanna check for debris of break-in or the clutch burned down; or the pipe is in the way of the next mod and you know the drill about keeping the gaskets in place before the second pair of hands needing those gaskets to stay in place.

Do I recommend you oval the gasket and the two points are touching the port now? Not really. But say if you oval it to push the gasket where it drags on the port opening and homes all the way around the port to header face? Ah, yeah, you have a second choice without the rubber type base being ignore the silicone deal.

Now, I should point out that yama or hondabond type case center glue is not the kind to use. It is more of the Permatex or the GM manifold silicone sealer they use. This hardens and tacks well. So, the silicone is more the glue that sets up fast, can be pushed out to a thin backing. Hey, if you could get crazy glue to tack... I would try that even being sounds like if it could set up, is wipe a spot of carbon build up away so it does not flake off. Tack the 4 sides so at least 3 sides tag to hold, being how distorted the gaskets are.

Set the fold over toward the port, meaning, the smoother side of the gasket faces the header spigot.

You would have to nail each pipe into the port hole. Then hold it there as you drag up any collar you could grab onto. I palm the collector, guide the header in the 4 ports and now scramble for a collar forcing the palm to both hold and push header into the ports. I know what you're going through.

Thanks Hub, I knew you'd have a few tricks. Is that the high temp RTV silicone (Red) you recommend? I'll pick up a tube and check the set up time. Headers are on there and I've been riding the bike but a visual check with a flashlight shows #2 gasket slipped upwards and I don't trust it not to leak eventually so it's rework time. Live and learn.

One other question, I didn't have time Saturday to install the Power Commander so I'm sure it's running lean. I couldn't resist riding it, runs great , you don't think I'll hurt anything? PCIII install this weekend.

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/13/2009 @ 12:41 PM *

HEY STUPIDS you can tweak(bend) the gasket just enough so it holds in the port by itself without any foreign glue compound being used ..but grease works just fine ..

oh and your not gonna hurt anything ..remember just the other day all the fat stock maps you found

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 7/13/2009 @ 3:47 PM *

You can use grease or high temp (red) silicone to hold the gaskets in...neither one will affect sealing at all. I've used both If the header is a tighter fit, and needs some wiggling to get in, use the red silicone...let it set over night, then the gaskets won't shift as you wiggle and jiggle the header on Also I'd replace the gasket that was off....it might not seal as good once you get it in right, they're one time use crush to fit type gaskets. You can reuse them if they stay in the same spot and mate with the same headpipe...but the off one I wouldn't trust. And you're going to notice a significant power increase when you get the pc installed with a good map

Yep, these gaskets are soft copper crush type and good for one tightening only....then bin 'em, $24.00 for a set of 4 from the local stealer! I think I might stay with grease, the copper anti-seize seemed to work well but what I didn't notice before I torqued the header nuts was that a couple of the gaskets had shifted. Just have to pay more attention this time. I hope your right, there is a lot of difference between the Zero map and the one for the RS-5, hoping she runs like a scalded baboon! ECU surgery scheduled for 0730 tomorrow morning!

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/14/2009 @ 7:38 AM *

Kruz, Take the header to the bike shop. Try a slightly fatter gasket than say HONDA? Then, once you wipe clean all the gaskets in stock; they could not find any to cover the spigot on the aftermarket. If you think both spigots are the same, bring the stock header and match the gaskets you find over them. You then try the other Big3 and their stockpile of exhaust gaskets in town. One should fit right up rotty's anal retentive az I was saying...

I came back chasing little crap for that chopper. I have a night run tonight with the timing setup. Kruz, I have one sooty stock bike that runs perfect as switching on a light in a room, it key fobs just like that. I go through so much cable rip at it, I think the crank might follow the vacuum suck on the intake sensor at the throttle body sync tube is find that hose to the sensor.

So, if you WOT the cable, the vacuum is instant as that input reads the cable> Way before your hand went to the stop at the grip. Do you think we have or need a map if there is no 02 sensor as being air sensitive in the open loop? For me to setup the 1000 and test the main throttle plate to the mods made? I would roll up on the rpm, Krus. Just a little insurance on the test ride. That slow roll up would act as the sub. See how it takes the air on a good gulp.

If you are in a high rpm or say, mid to WOT, the stock fuel trim is rich heading up on the red-line scale I think for cooling effect and nose diving it sorta. That first rip on the bottom end is where you might hear some knocking. But are we running a knock sensor on that bike? Look for two sensors. Say, like for one at the water jacket in the rear of the cylinder, the other one if you find it, might be for the knock sensor.

I would have to run to the dealer, have them open a manual and ask if there is a knock sensor or look it up where I think section in the parts page is look under, "Knock some sense into rotty's brain he is sitting on."