My front end goes something like this:
Once the the repacking is done, I assemble the upper and lowers. You can choose either fork, but I start with the left fork. You can measured per spec, or rematch the patina v. clean area that is not pinched, and that is right under the triple tree.
I now float the other fork. I install only the axle, and run the right fork either up or down to where the axle finds the best static spin into the left fork. Tighten the pinch bolts and recheck. Lube the axle so heat/condensation does not rust lock the center collar. If the axle lines up and threads so easily, then you roll the wheel in, eyeball where it lines up, it goes in by hand is the float... no hammer is ever used on either axles. If you saw them take a soft hammer to the axle(s)... calamari at work.
With all wheel spacers out, calipers hanging away from the forks, I now install the wheel. Once I let go of that wheel it should not move. I run a piece of tape at what ever clock position. I now check the guy's balancing work by grabbing either the 9 or 6 o'clock position and place it to the 12 or 3 o'clock. Meaning, I want to move that one tape to the other 3 positions; where it should not spin, nor move once you let go x's-4.
Recap:
You know the front end is not it when...
You know you squared the tripe tree in a static position.
You know the air pressure is well over 35psi, and the balance is spot on.
You have to look at the set marks being at least even at the real adjuster marks.
You now have it traveling as a straight arrow; having the rear pointed straight, the front end won't drop weird to one side, normal on the other side, or the one leg being pushed up to install the axle.
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