I can get a full yoshi exhast with yoshi headers in great condition for 580 shipped. It would be for my 2006 zx14.
I have a couple of questions

1. is this a loud exhaust? I still would like to listen to my tunes in my helmet.
2. are the headers much better than the stock zx14? I dont want to go to the trouble of installing headers if they are only a couple of hp difference.

thanks
Joel

He has a make off listed on his auction so it may be a little cheaper if I can talk him down.

Get it. I have the same system. I commute and often arrive home after midnight. No complaints from the neighbors that it is too loud, I can hear music on my Cardo and you can also install a quiet insert that really calms the noise down. However when you accelerate HARD the exhaust screams like you want it too.

I'd go for it. You'll love the weightloss and headers are not difficult to install. Use a 1/4" drive 11" extension and universal joint adapter to reach the bolts that are hard to reach. Just be super careful that they are seated in the hex squarely. Use a torque wrench along with the extension and adapter to tighten. Get a set of new OEM header gaskets rather than reusing the olds. Be extremely careful removing old gaskets from manifold. I would suggest a plastic scraper or sharpened wood dowel so you do't scrape the machined surface. I'm a believer in the Permatex Spray-A-Gasket stuff but it makes fitting the sticky pipe joints a real bitch. It's up to you if you want to use it. You don't want to lever on those light headers or pound to get the pipes all the way together. I think I used some mineral spirits to make the Permatex more slippery but it was still pretty difficult. Makes your exhaust gaskets stick in place nicely. I also sprayed the header bolt threads.

I don't think you will notice the difference in hp between stock header and aftermarket. Maybe if you are paying very close attention riding back to back comparison but how could you do that? It'll be more like an 8~10 hp difference but that's not that much on a 175 rwhp bike. 170, 178... who will notice the difference in that?

Go for the full system anyway. You've already done a lot more work on that bike than what is required to install a full system.

Go for the full system anyway. You've already done a lot more work on that bike than what is required to install a full system.

yes, I am persistent if anything. I am going to go down a tooth on the front in a few minutes. I don't care if it is louder or wears out the chain quicker as I am going to do the whole kit once I get some advice as to the best set up for the ZX, so call this an experiment. It was you (Rook), that told me It was going to be the most bang for the buck. when I get the new kit I will put the front back to 17 and go up to 45 or so in the back. After the sprocket is on....off come the front and rear wheels because I am going to get my tires put on today. I want the exhaust gone because it is freakishly huge, and way too hot. I like the sound level though and if the new system is too loud then I am fucked because above all things I like to listen to my music when I ride. 8-10 hp is a huge difference in my book. Every bit helps.
I would like more info on installing a Glowshift AFR gauge....couldn't I have a muffler shop weld in the sensor before I even install it? So my understanding is that I would ride around, taking mental notes as to what RPM/T.P. is getting bad readings and then just make small adjustments? RPM is not a big problem to note but T.P.? That would be near impossible to identify. Is that that the way to use it?

Joel

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/16/2018 @ 6:33 AM *

It was you (Rook), that told me It was going to be the most bang for the buck. when I get the new kit I will put the front back to 17 and go up to 45 or so in the back.

8-10 hp is a huge difference in my book. Every bit helps.

[quote]I would like more info on installing a Glowshift AFR gauge....couldn't I have a muffler shop weld in the sensor before I even install it?

Here's how I did my oil gauges. I used the city light plug for power.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=88999CBD-1B78-59F6-022D4D67180D8E33&page=1&searchTerm=Oil%20Gauges%20Install#1

You might want to consider the standard series gauges. The Elite series has plugs that fall right out. The Elite series AFR gauge seems to have good plugs with a latch for some reason, they didn't do thst with the other elite series gauges. The GlowShift AFR gauge comes with it's own controller and sensor. Everything you need is there. As is the case with most gauges, these are not water proof.

This is how I'm going on the busa. Probably hard to read in daylight but waterproof and very easy to mount. You would need to buy a controller though which means you might as well get a DJ Wideband2 or AutoTune (WB2 is a little more complex for +$60).

https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=387

So my understanding is that I would ride around, taking mental notes as to what RPM/T.P. is getting bad readings and then just make small adjustments? RPM is not a big problem to note but T.P.? That would be near impossible to identify. Is that that the way to use it?

Since you're going down this road, you might want to consider a WB2. The gauge would always be of use even if you did self tune but you would need an O2 sensor for both the gauge and the WB2. The POD-300 would also serve as an AFR gauge. $600.