Bike on side stand, remove right lower crankshaft cover, turn crank clockwise by hand, rotate 360 degrees:
1. Found the problem if cannot rotate 360°.
2. Will turn 360° - Report back.

Hub wants you to verify that the motor isn't mechanically locked due to things like bent valves, jumped timing or hydraulic lock. Do you hear the motor try to actually crank or just hear a buzzing from under the seat ? Your start relay could be bad. If the motor cannot actually crank over, especially if you pull the plugs out, then you have a mechanical issue.

Mad

put it in 6th...then push.

What is the voltage reading on the dash? If less than 12v it won't start even if it cranks over ok. Charge battery.

IDK if roll starting will even do it if the battery is really low. Worth a try. Removing the RH crankshaft cover is not hard. Just make sure you get the bracket for the crankshaft sensor wire back on the bolt correctly. No real need for the SM recommended sealant but I always used it on the engine case seam and the wire grommet. If it leaks at all it will be a very small seep. Get that cover off and you will see the crankshaft flats to turn the motor manually with a socket.

Get a socket and rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE as you look at the RH side of the bike. NOT counterclockwise! It is not an easy turn---about 10~12 ft lbs of hand torque should do it. If you feel you're turning more than 20, I'd say the engine has seized.

I doubt that would be the case if you had no symptoms before.

Is the motor turning over with the battery? If so, it cannot be seized.

CRANKSHAFT COVER REMOVAL

MANUAL CRANKSHAFT ROTATION

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/12/2019 @ 7:23 PM *

I'm echoing Rook and Grn14, its REALLY easy to pop that cover off, with the bike in neutral turn the big bolt clockwise slowly. OR, pop the bike into 6th (you will NEED to roll the bike forward with the clutch pulled to go from 1st to 2nd, 3rd, etc) and with the clutch out push the bike. 6th gear because of the gear ratio means the rear wheel will move a lot for the engine moving a little making it easier to move the engine slowly and at all.

Don't bother worrying about a seized engine as there are a bunch of other things that could be causing your issues so no need to get concerned about something that might not be the issue until you know.

check for the dreaded "Green" corrosion at the battery terminals and the starter inputs. High resistance due to corrosion can zap current from flowing and should be ruled out.

Its a new(er) bike so you have to rule out the min wage knuckle draggers that threw it together at the stealership - what's the odds they forgot to tighten a power connection??

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 3/13/2019 @ 11:44 AM *

You ran the shit out of it, trade in for 2019. Troubles over.

that sound your talking about...can you video it?A 'bump' could be almost anything.I seriously doubt the motor is damaged.

"it makes a bump bump sound when i try turn it over"...okay.When it first does this sound,does it sound like it's actually TRYING to move?Like it's barely turning?Even for a second?And your voltage?It's sitting at what?On the dash.It got you home just fine,right.Was working fine.So it sits and then it somehow breaks something?Uhm,I can't picture that on a bike like the 14 with 1500 miles on it...jus sayin.UNLESS!!!You REALLY ran the shit out of it.;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/13/2019 @ 12:49 PM *

Blown engine. He's afraid to tell what really happened. Probably took it to the rev limiter just before he shut it down. Doesn't need to be a rider. Put in 6th gear and push off a cliff.

* Last updated by: BigRed1 on 3/13/2019 @ 4:35 PM *

Maybe he’s saying bump bump for click click? My 1st gen did that to me on the way to work after a convenience store stop. It was just a loose ground.

WOW! Just read the OP... maybe he did blow it! Now that I think about it, mine wouldn’t even click, and the needles didn’t jump or anything. Still confused by the bump bump but not turning over???

Maybe, just maybe...it’s more like a CLUNK CLUNK from a starter trying to turn a seized motor!

* Last updated by: mad5674 on 3/13/2019 @ 5:06 PM *

My 06 will start at 11.7v. Gen 1 will definitely push start with low battery. Another reason I am not in a hurry to get a Gen 2. Good luck.

"Blown engine. He's afraid to tell what really happened"..lol.Only he knows...tbc....

No 2nd means it's easy to find N with a dead engine. 2nd gear has a centrifugal lockout so the combination to this lock is to spin the back tire with one hand, then hand shift into 2nd with the other hand before the wheel slows down. No race stands, centerstand, have someone balance the bike on the side stand with the back wheel off the ground.

Short of removing the exhaust system to drop the oil pan, you could cut open the oil filter, separate the paper pleats and look for large chips of brass and aluminum chips. If it looks clean, then start looking for starter clutch problems. But if you can video the starting problem, the more ears and eyes lurking, someone may hit upon something.

If you have a heavy pair of jumper cables, take red cable jaw and clamp onto the posi side of the battery. With the other red cable lead, slam the clamp over the starter lug with the rubber boot covering that posi strap to the starter motor. This is to bypass the start button; solenoid; bike's battery cable. If the same symptom occurs, my guess is a bad starter motor, short of thinking it's the one way starter clutch.

Starter clutch might catch and slip, catch and, slip... only an audio vid knows for sure.

When you are posting a reply look above the text box where you type, there's the formatting examples there, you want to add:

[ utube ] https://URL [ /utube ]

Don't include any spaces in that line like I have.

Also, as Hub mentioned, not being able to shift into 2nd is normal on these transmissions, you would need to have the rear wheel moving a bit (by hand is fine) while you try shifting.

Just so OP is not mystified by the 2nd gear thing: Kawasaki builds a unique feature into its transmissions: an easy neutral finder. Whenever the bike is NOT MOVING, you can lift the shift lever and it goes into NEUTRAL, not 2nd. This is why they are telling you to get the rear wheel turning before you try to shift into 2nd.

Jim G