After some rain recently my clutch side mirror was extremely hard to adjust. Not the actual mirror but the arm itself. I sprayed some WD40 at the elbow and I got it loose. BUT NOW it is extremely sloppy and moves when I hit a bump or at highway speeds. It folds towards me. Is there an adjustment on the elbow? Just in time for my trip to Michigan to irritate me the whole way there lol

Thanks in advance

Say the mirror is some kind of pressed on rivet and no adjustment at this pin can be made:
Buy new.

Or say, what do I have to lose if I have my said position lined up; remove mirror; hold a flat punch in a vice; place the bottom side of the pin over the punch; the wife/kid/friend is holding the mirror square to the punch; I found a socket that fits the diameter of the pin; and I whack it once to see if it tightened up?:
50/50 chance it gets worse, it tightens up then loosens up even more with the hit, tightens up and can't move it, or it worked... ah shit it worked loose on the trip.

Or, keep the mirror on; find my position; start at the mirror base is to; lay a long enough strip to go across the top of the circle; but begin at the mirror holder base; over the circle of the rivet system; and end at the mirror side. I let that dry for at least 24 hours. This way, I can remove the mirror. Why?

The anal attack is this option. Say that strip is going to wrinkle your pucker because you know it's there, looking back at your face. Your anal reaction was to flip the mirror over and run two wide strips on the bottom. Remove the top strip. Possibly, the best way is to finger in the pivot action with the glue. This way it won't move around with that circumference in the grooves, and on both sides of that groove, meaning.

So instead of breaking it loose sunk in the groove, you just pull the strips off and it pulls away from the mirror and that tiny groove it filled in. Sure, you can probably break the seal if you made a clean fill in the groove. However, you'd have to just reset the mirror, then fill over the glue, if not pull as much out as you can get. Rather, the more simple approach is to have a few beads under the bottom so it's more stable. If you kept the top strip on, triangle the other two strips, I would think 170+ and it won't budge.

Therefore, my suggestion is to keep the mirror on, don't fuck with the pin, and run a triangle bead over mirror pivot. When working the bottom bead, you'll need to blow on the glue so it setups faster, or it will drip off. If the tube was more 'shelf-life' worthy, it comes out thick and slow. A thin film would work and then in an hour or less you run a few more thin beads over the top of the first one. That or pull the mirror and let each bead setup.

Pack the tube for the trip. You'll never know how universal that shit is.

And contact clean the surface or the glue won't stick, obviously.

If I got off my ass first... There is a rubber type coin cover over that bolt/screw; is the assumption. I didn't pull mine off to check, just see what it is head wise and go from there. The mirror design in my head was way off. You'd have to simply butt two squirts on each side of the female mirror holder to the male pivot ring, call it.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/12/2019 @ 10:43 AM *

There is an allen under that flap.It should tighten up,or else remove mirror pivot and clean everything off the sprayed parts...

Thanks for the help. I'll try it out and see what happens

Or take both mirrors off, install mirror caps and a bar end mirror. I like that look. The bar end mirror isn't as good of a view as the OEM but I never rely on my mirrors anyway.

I had to adjust a loose mirror(gen 2) with the allen head bolt under the rubber grommet a couple of months ago. Still workin' fine...