When I noticed book procedure, I took theory into practice and experimented on the way of approaching the plunger release of the cam chain tensioner. I rammed the plunger in and did not notice the preset. All I knew was the damn thing held the plunger in. So with the set ring in the groove this time, I could see it didn't take but one tap to release the plunger.

Since the book step shows using a long screwdriver to push the slipper against the plunger's nose, why not snap the chain against the slipper so the nose takes the same kind of push at it like the long screwdriver. And since the slipper needs to drop in the opposite direction of the snap, that slight air gap at the cct body and head is not about to stress parts with the crank needing to spin a few times to set the cct and make sure the chain didn't slip by not catching that one too.

BRAVO!

Brilliant! No need to remove the head cover, change gaskets and that "shove the screwdriver against the chain" procedure is crude compared to this. Resetting the CCT is now easy. I will have to add a link to this thread to my CCT tutorial which describes the book procedure. HAHA you should tell Kaw so they can update the SM for the 2017.

Your procedure is definitely worth trying. If it doesn't work for any reason, you could always resort to the screwdriver through the cam chain tunnel approach. What's nice about this is that you can easily hear the tensioner snap out. If you're not sure, just feel if the tensioner body is still loose or if it is pushing back against the bolts.

Nice work, Hub. Thanks for sharing.

HAHA you should tell Kaw so they can update the SM for the 2017.

Thanks, but I see too many variables. The lawyerage alone of moving the engine is one. If you can fucup something that simple; let the public have at it. Forget the top stationary slipper not in place and the chain will ride up over the tooth and all you need is one tooth off.

I noticed that and had to stop moving the rear slipper to meet the taught side of the chain. A far as the 2nd gen ctt, they show you 2 photos of a good set as opposed to a bad set of the plunger. I started out with the bad setting being too deep... and no joy as you could see.

Also, I think it will work on both style tensioners of the 14.

Forget the top stationary slipper not in place and the chain will ride up over the tooth and all you need is one tooth off.

I noticed that and had to stop moving the rear slipper to meet the taught side of the chain.

What top slipper are you talking about? You mean the top cam chain guide?

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/17/2016 @ 1:44 PM *

Correct. The top guide. With the cct out I could roll the crank back to take the slack out of the loop at the center of the cams. Once they timed in I could feel the slack rolling the crank the other way [forward] and no cam movement. When I set the cct with the reverse hit, rolled the crank forward to take the slack out, I rolled the crank backwards a few degrees, then forward, then back again; to see if the tensioner triggered and sure enough. No need to spin the crank twice. That's two loopholes of the book's procedures.

I think I had a slight leak and didn't compress the oring hard enough on the first cylinder. The #4, I would assume, would be closer to the first time I checked, but it looks like it's down just a touch for #1, so I'm not sure. But to see the other cylinder-4 move past 230... I'll take it.

179-264psi checked hot. Mine is cold... as if walking out to the bike one day and it does not start... you first check compression with a cold engine that does not start, right? That's now the 3rd loophole of book procedure.

* Last updated by: Hub on 12/19/2016 @ 2:09 PM *

I was getting only 150-160 on mine with warm engine. I will try a better gauge next time. Sorta doubt that was the cause but I'm hoping. Doesn't seem weak to me but if it is, I'm not worried. This old Ninja is getting bored some day. ..or just new cylinder sleeves if that will bring it back to new.

Now was the time to remove some of the tuning tools. The harnesses were going to interfere with the throttle sync area. I have a small enough mirror I use that is now being glued to a stick. I first wanted to hear the engine start cold. This was the make or break noise at that loose of a setting. A few low rpm blips and nothing.

That #4 is right in there [almost] with the first round of numbers. 149-248 psi is gen1 and 173-261 psi is for gen2. "Only getting 150 is; 149 is breakout and you are one pound away. I'd check the accuracy of the gauge used. And warm at that. For grins, I'd check cold next time.

New sleeves are obsolete. The cylinder finish is part of the case. Therefore you can't bore out or resleeve. The cylinders are in need of a replating service. Then new pistons, pins, clips and rings.

The cheap boom mic was on normal and I can't remember watt bouncing dick or Cody said? The boom was on when I could hear the cct click. Who cares what the meat puppets said, it probably wasn't nice.