No such luck here in the US of A! That site is written in German, do they ship to the US?

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You can switch to english language on the second site.

Thanks I appreciate that! Big help!

Hi guys-

Just a quick note to say I too have installed the iQSE-1 + QSH-P4A kit on my 2008; everything went very well.

I chose to run everything on the left side of the bike and installed the iQSE module under the left side 'dashboard' panel and attached it to the intake via the provided velcro. In order to gain access to the top of the plugs/coils, I removed all right side panels but only removed the 'foreman' cover on the left side of the bike. (As such, with a bit of effort, I was able to get the left-most plug/coil addressed from the left side of the bike even without having removed the other left side panels).

ZXPredator chose to pull his shift lever off, flip it over then run his sensor on top of his shift lever; I left my lever as-is and installed the sensor on the bottom. (I only report this to demonstrate it will work in either configuration. This is in no way an attempt to correct him or fault his choice.)

Once buttoned up, I chose (for now) to leave it in Auto (adaptive) mode and took it out on the street. So far I've done light and moderate pulls without issue - it works beautifully! Yes, even downshifts are possible when the transmission is NOT loaded 'too' much. (D, if you still have questions as to full-throttle performance, I can let you know.)

If anyone has questions, let me know, but it truly was very straight-forward and refreshingly easy to do.

All the best-

Devin

(D, if you still have questions as to full-throttle performance, I can let you know.)
If anyone has questions, let me know, but it truly was very straight-forward and refreshingly easy to do.

Yeah, I'd be curious to know how it does at WOT above 9000 rpm. My Hm is hit or miss. It hurts so bad when I miss, I quit trying. Planning to go to GP shift and position the shift rod knuckle so it is perpendicular to the ground (does not pass 6 o'clock with GP pattern) at full throw.

I will subscribe. I'm not around very frequently with the internet situation I have at home.

https://youtu.be/TgUW8fUP1Bg

As requested, some tests to verify performance at Wide Open Throttle above 9K RPM. Wind noise is horrible with the chin-mount but I wanted to show my hands during the run to demonstrate the lack of clutch / throttle modulation.

Hopefully you can see it's working very well even in this range :)

All the best-

Devin

* Last updated by: 44magnum on 5/1/2020 @ 2:08 PM *

Assist:

Thanks Hub; I tried several different times to get it to work like that but no luck.

You're welcome.
I know why.

You posted: https://youtu.be/TgUW8fUP1Bg
I c&p'd this-opened a new browser-pasted this line.
I c&p the new address: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgUW8fUP1Bg&feature=youtu.be.
I come here, add and subtract: https://www.youtube.com/v/TgUW8fUP1Bg.
I long hand the utube brackets you see above in BODY: [utube]https://www.youtube.com/v/TgUW8fUP1Bg[utube]
I left out the forward slash in the closing bracket or you'd see the utube video. That's what it should look like.
So the trick is to make sure the "/v/" is between the http and what you see between the equal and &; ="T******g"& and the rest you leave out.

Here's another shake down run with the cam mounted at the steering stem for better viz and audio. All upshifts were performed without clutch or throttle modulation; even shifting from first into second is smooth. I wanted to demonstrate a few different RPM ranges as well as load conditions to give a better representation of the iQSE-1 and its performance.

* Last updated by: 44magnum on 5/4/2020 @ 11:10 AM *

Looks good Magnum.Just ordered one.Anything I should know about setting up?Looks straightforward.Timing 'automatic' or does it need to be set manually?Wiring?Nice vid.

Okay...looked at your previous posts.Harness goes to the coils then(?).And the 'auto' feature adjusts the timing and all.Sounds good.Thanks for the post(s).Been considering a QS for a while.This looks good.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/4/2020 @ 12:19 PM *

Thanks Biggen; it was exactly as you said, very straight-forward. The worst part is pulling the fairings off (I'm always nervous about scratching something). Wiring was as simple as 'unplug this, and plug in that.'

I chose to leave mine in Auto / Adaptive mode and I don't have any complaints (I don't run on a track though, so keep that in mind).

I doubt you'll have questions, but if you do, pop smoke and we'll git 'er figured out.

All the best-

Devin

Looks very good! DAmn you redlined that first shift in the first video and no problems. Your using standard shift pattern, not GP? What is the kill time? My HM is either set for too fast of a kill time, it's not as good as the Healtech or else I banged my shift dogs too many times and something is amiss. I'd be scared to shift at WOT and 11,000 rpm. It clicks up and BANG, back down to the previous gear.

Thanks D :) Yeah man, so far it's working very well - zero complaints. Correct, I'm using the standard shift pattern and the kill time is 85 ms (auto) with a sensor threshold of 40% and cut-off delay of 15 ms. Again, everything is in auto|adaptive mode.

Yikes man, I hope it's just the HM and not the dogs

I'm not certain about the exact terminology but from what I've learned about quickshifters in the past few years it sounds like

A) Autoadaptive -- mode hones in on all the optimum settings.

B) Kill time -- 85 mls was chosen by Autoadaptive mode

C) Cut-off Delay -- extra 15 mls to allow the shift linkage to move

D) Sensor Threshold -- 40% (a little less than half) of maximum sensitivity for the Healtech shift sensor

The total kill time might explain my missed shifts. I had been going with 65 mls and The HM+ does not have any kind of shift kill delay or "cut-off delay" as Healtech calls it. I think I have the thing set too fast for the 14's big ol gearbox.

I had used 90 mls in the past but that resulted in a noticeable jerk at WOT when it hit the next gear and ignition resumed. It felt kind of cool. It wasn't exactly rough like something was going to break but it seemed to me the bike should accelerate as smooth as it would while clutch shifting. I will have to check into my kill time this summer. I remember another member stating that he used 90 mls kill time.

As far as the dogs go, I feel the opposite. I would love to tear that gearbox apart and see how it works. New gear dogs can't cost that much money! What pisses me off is that the Healtech is about 100 bucks less than the HM+. No way do I want something to be wrong with the shifter. I can't fix that, I'd just have to buy a new one.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/6/2020 @ 9:21 AM *

I'm using the standard shift pattern and the kill time is 85 ms (auto) with a sensor threshold of 40% and cut-off delay of 15 ms.

I had a look at my HM Plus shifter last weekend and the setting were

Compression/Extension: Compression for standard shift pattern

Sensitivity: 65% (100% is most sensitive, 65% feels about the same as an upshift using the clutch)

Kill Time: 60 mls (150 mls is max)

I put the kill time to 90 mls and so far all is good. I have done some 80-85% throttle upshifts at 8000~9000 rpm. I have not tried WOT yet. At larger TPs there is a small jerk when the ignition comes back on. That is not something I notice with shorter kill times. I hope to do a couple WOT tests before putting the bike away for winter.

I remarked in some other thread that 90 mls is about as fast as I can shift using the clutch but I see now I was mistaken. 90 mls is a lot faster than I can clutch shift. I may try 85 mls. 60 mls was obviously way too fast for the 14. There's another thing that makes me jealous of the liter bikes and 600s but oh well, it's a hyperbike. I just thought a drag racing motorcycle would shift at least as fast as a road racing bike. Maybe with race cut gears. I'll have to try that mod one day.

I'll have more input as I test this thing more. I've always avoided clutchless shifting from 1 to 2 just because it seems like it could be too harsh.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/10/2020 @ 7:07 PM *

It's funny I hear from you this evening because I've been slowly adjusting my settings over the past couple of weeks and I was thinking of coming back and reporting what I've been doing :)

I've been noticing some false neutrals as well as unwanted cutoff's due to bumping into the lever from positioning myself on the bike. I've now increased the sensitivity level (Sensor Threshold) up to 70% and the Cut-off Delay up to 25 ms. Cut-off Time is still in Auto (85 ms).

Fingers crossed this will eliminate the false neutrals for good. WOT pulls all the way to redline are still good to go.

Oh, and yesterday I drove up to Schnitz Racing to have the ECU flashed. Gears 1-3 feel much more in line with what I expected from a ZX-14 so I'm definitely happy I finally made the trip up and spent the $75 :)

All the best-

Devin

I don't understand the purpose of the cutoff delay. The cutoff delay postpones the ignition cut just as you start making the shift. Ideally, you want the ignition cut at the instant the shift drum begins to roll out of the current gear, right? With cutoff delay, it seems the transmission is still under load as the shift drum begins to roll. Then after the shift has begun, the ignition cut unloads the transmission to complete the shift into the next gear. It seems to me if the sensor is loaded enough by your toe to move the shifting mechanism at all, the ignition cut should start then. If I'm understanding this correctly, lengthening the cutoff delay gives the transmission time to move while under load. Shifting out of gear under load seems like it would increase wear to the point that the gears would grind if the cutoff delay was a long enough period of time. The output gear is disengaging from the input gear while loaded by the engine. Then the ignition kill comes on so the input gear can smoothly engage to the gear you are shifting up to.

I don't have a comlete concept of how a motorcycle transmission works and I'm sure the people who design these shifters know what they are doing. It still seems to me the ignition cut should happen as soon as the shift from the current gear begins to happen. Maybe 25 mls of delay is not enough to cause appreciable wear and you get an extra 25 mls under power instead of wasting that time cutting power for the entire shift. Sounds cool but I would just have no cutoff delay and increase the kill time. That way, the transmission would be unloaded for the whole shift and there would be ample time to complete the shift before the transmission was under load again. If your toe is moving, the shift is happening. Cut ignition as soon as the toe moves. Am I missing something?

I suppose the cutoff delay helps to decrease the jerk between gears when you have a longer kill time. The cutoff delay allows you to have a shorter kill time for duration that you really need it most.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/11/2020 @ 9:05 PM *

Hey there D, I just emailed you some pictures and a couple of videos I think will help you sort this out in your mind.

All the best-

Devin

Thank ya other D.

The guy doesn't really explain WHY the cutoff delay exists. It could be that the Heal-Tec sensor is registering movement of the pedal even before there is any preload of the pedal. If you have your sensitivity set kind of high, maybe you would initiate the ignition cut before the pedal even stopped moving at the point where it becomes preloaded. I would just think you would go with a lower sensitivity so that you can preload the pedal before the ignition cut is initiated. With a strain gauge sensor like the HM has, I don't believe it is possible for that sensor to initiate an ignition kill unless the shift pedal is raised to the point it is loaded against the internal shift mechanism at lest a little bit. Otherwise, I might get an ignition cut every time I touched the pedal or maybe even if I went over a bump in the road and the pedal bounced a bit. The lowest sensitivity of the HM Plus still requires the pedal to be lifted as high as it will go before it senses any pressure (all the slack is taken up out of the pedal and the shift linkage).

Here's what really has me baffled, the guy has shorter kill times as the rpm increases. Do you move the shift pedal faster when you are running the engine faster? I usually shift as fast as I can no matter what gear or what rpm. There is no faster shift at high rpm I don't think, they're all the same speed...then again we are talking milliseconds so who knows? What I do know is that my 14 handled 60 mls kill times just fine at lower rpm but it often missed the shift at higher rpm. I think the gears were not fully engaged with that short of a kill time and the massive load actually was kicking it back down to the previous gear or into false Neutral. The lighter load of small TPs and lower rpms tolerated the gears being not quite engaged. So, I'm befuddled as to why this guy's bike works so well with shorter kill times at higher rpm. He did say every bike is different but I would expect what I've described to be pretty constant among all bikes.

I guess all that matters is that our shifters work. Our kill times are similar. I will try 85 mls if 90 works without fail.

Do you feel a tug after the ignition comes back on? With a 90 mls kill time, I do if the engine is under a lot of load.

"Other D"

Yeah sorry man, I was hoping it would sort of spark an 'ah-HAH!' for you. To the question of why my sensitivity is set so high, I was getting a lot of ignition cut before I was ready. Even at 70%, I still need to be sure not to bump into the side of the shifter because doing so will register as much as a 55-60% input value. So far 70% works really well. (As long as your input value is above the threshold, it'll shift.)

Do I move the shifter faster as I enter higher RPM's... I really don't believe I do. I would be willing to bet I'm pretty consistent but of course I don't have anything other than the calibration of my left shin muscle

I think the reason for the shorter cutoff times at higher RPM's is due to the fact everything is rotating faster so engagement occurs sooner on a timeline since it's the only variable (as opposed to the distance the gears have to travel via circumference.)

One reason the HealTech may work better with these shorter kill times is because it also incorporates a kill/cut-off delay. This works to help fine-tune the timing. If the HM doesn't use this, then I can see why your kill times would be longer since you don't have something else affecting the timing.

Do I feel a tug after ignition comes back... I did while using the 85ms adaptive mode. Since I switched to manual with the values I emailed you, it's almost non-existent now.

This is a lot of words to read, write and digest so if you want to chat on the phone, let me know and I bet we can get it figured out.

-Dev

I think the reason for the shorter cutoff times at higher RPM's is due to the fact everything is rotating faster so engagement occurs sooner on a timeline since it's the only variable (as opposed to the distance the gears have to travel via circumference.)

Maybe the cutoff delay is so you don't have the tug as the ignition comes back on. The tug gets more pronounced with higher engine speeds and it is caused by too long of a kill time. So shorten the kill time to eliminate the tug but now the kill time is to brief to complete the shift. The cutoff delay allows the first few mls of shift to happen under load and that time combined with the shorter kill time is enough to make a high rpm shift. So you have the cutoff delay to allow you to use shorter kill times that don't cause a jerk between gears. That might be it.

I might get a new shifter one day and I will probably get one with cutoff delay. I really want one that can do clutchless down shifts but the cutoff delay is even more important.

Yeah, I call you on this in the future, other D.

Check out the video at the bottom of this page!

http://hmquickshifter.com/shop/hm-quickshifters/hm-stand-alone-blipper-range/

I think I need this and also to upgrade to the HM Plus SS. That should cover all my clutchless shifting needs forever. About a thousand bucks.

The stand alone blipper is the shiznit!!