Again, Grn, look WOT you are saying; That which stays in motion... Is a straight line. There is no problem lowering the bike and going straight. It's when you make the slightest move of that shopping cart wheel and how much crank you move that hinge is not even close to correcting going straight.

The long front end of the chopper... Yes or no, did you ever pull that bar to center from sitting on the side stand? That is a long hard tug to center. Pitch the wheel in now. That shopping cart pitch is quick steer. Speedway steering is the tight, drop the frame down the forks. Drag racing, pitch the front end out, or raise the frame up.

They strap, they squat all EVEN FRAME STANCE, go nowhere on the frame slide to pitch, meaning, no fork moving. If you trail brake, is that not on the brakes, the font is pitched down, the rear is up? The back comes around, you shopping cart cancel that move; by the rear kicking out instead of the front washing out? Yes or no?

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/1/2012 @ 11:10 AM *

"Again, Grn, look WOT you are saying"....I need help here....what was I saying?Aren't we talking about raising or lowering forks?That's what I 'thought' the OP was asking...about what 'us guys' are running our fork height at.Sorry..messed up again.Didn't mean to get this thread going somewhere else at all.Sorry Danno.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/1/2012 @ 11:58 AM *

Every forum has people who like to toss the b.s. around without having anything to contribute to the particular thread, so it's just bumpage to me. As long as anyone looking at it checks out the original post and gives a reply, it's all good. But some may be scared away by the sheer volume of manure in the middle.

I have mine fush because of the type of riding i do. I want all the clearance I can possibly get.

The volume of my manure schoolsquidsir. Is not that up and down range internal? I bet you got schooled here about same and more air you won't find someone telling you about the penultimeat squidly answer. It took you 3 websites to chase a book question? I'd say you got lucky here, yes or no?

Too bad I couldn't suck you inn on that '133 chew.' Sucked you into a fork fit though. Sure you know. Please. I can tell you can't see design is one. I'd like to see you explain the penultimate begins with a T. Chew be barking up the wong twee fell ear.

BRING IT!

Hub,
17 posts and you still haven't answered the original question or posted anything of value (other than entertainment)

Are you, by chance, an attorney?

Yes, first priority is to entertain myself. It trickles down so you are not out of the loop. I hide nothing. I hid an easter egg, so go find it. It's hidden in the entertainment is to see a mouse go thru a maze for the cheezy answer. I answer in 3-dimensions, 2 or 1-dimensional. There are others here to help answer.

X = See the lower shadow?
Y = You go any lower, you'll bang parts around a corner, not down the 1320.
Z = In the book [you are liable for Z points out here she is, your one number answer, your shadowed answer, pick a flat, pick a taper. Bottom line = .85]; it gives one number for fork height. At the fork adjustments, you can raise the fork tension and/or lower that spring tension to make adjustments, not bottom out thru corners.

Squid Moves = Do not stand in front of the entertainment, if it walks like one, talks like one, etc.

Anything that points away from a flat or a book number [.85]... You gotta wonder where they are still going with the engineering?; me buddy came back all plastic fangdango. The tarmac have teef, said he!

This whole thing to me, narrows down to; Book spec of say, the digital placement of the sub-sensor, or the TPS, or for that matter, pick a chapter. Well, I'm going out of range, leave my burnt valves alone, I know WOT I'm doing. I also set the TPS so it codes out of range.

Yes, I missed my calling, I rest my case.

Flatapershadow = 3 dimensions break it down, brakes me up!

BRINGit!

Dan -

Lowering the triple clamp was one of the first things I did.

Measuring from the inside (key side) of the top of the triple clamp with the clip-ons removed, I've got about 33mm of the fork tube showing.

Seems to help sharpen up the bike's turning.

Hope that helps.

1.254"

* Last updated by: omar on 1/16/2012 @ 2:44 PM *

Wow! Two straight answers in a row with absolutely no talking in circles! Have I entered a 4th dimension?

Nope, you are still stuck in the abyss IS.. Yesis or nose is, did you measure both forks to the same height?

WTF: What do you mean, what the fork is fuck?
TF4Y: Well, I just asked the X to Y.

WTF: Why do you have to be so...
TF4Y: ... So WOT?

WTF: So what is the problem?
TF4Y: You set one fork is for the mm

WTF: Yeah and...
TF4Y: Yeah, and you don't givey shivey about the other fork is fork. You now want the other fork to float so the axle is set to fly into the other fork, means X-Y IS Z'd.

WTF: You mean I wasted all that time on the other fork side with me meter reader?
TF4Y: Seems logical you want the bike squared, and the axle lines up the other fork in the static.

WTF: Now what?
TF4Y: Now, I more school you than you school me.

How about those fork springs? I'm so green in the pits, whole wee shits a brick! I used to be the 39mm, 20w, s$w spring ha ding-ding and I'm done, show me the fun. Now, it's spring stagger makes one unit. Get it? The two springs tide-in, makes one spring.

MATT should know this stuff. The drummer with the rr. Is he staggering springs? And now the controversy. I've seen 4 winds on the same fork side with two different springs. What gives on that move? You'd think you'd move 4 on the soft, 3 on the hard. 2.5 on the hard? Still makes one, no matter how you look at it.

That is my setup and I'm going to stick with it until I feel something skidshebob.

Mine are at 1.125 as omar measured or 27mm to the top of the tubes ala Tbolt's

"This whole thing to me, narrows down to; Book spec of say, the digital placement of the sub-sensor, or the TPS, or for that matter, pick a chapter. Well, I'm going out of range, leave my burnt valves alone, I know WOT I'm doing. I also set the TPS so it codes out of range.
Yes, I missed my calling, I rest my case"....and this is concerning"how far are your forks set?" .

"Now, I more school you than you school me".Hubster...c'mon....it isn't a competition about who knows more....SHEESH .Just a simple question about fork heigth.No more,no less.Has this whole forum gone bonkers?WTF is with everyone's attitudes

Glad you got to have some "4th dimension" there Danno.Nice,isn't it?

And Hubster...who loves ya baby?

And then IT HIT ME...."he's doing this on purpose...he is.It doesn't fit....and he knows it".....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/17/2012 @ 2:33 PM *

Hub's posts are like, TTTfTTZ-To the top from The Twilight Zone.

Grn, Just keep watching one of these suspension posts. It's going to be an eye opener. I had no clue you could do these combinations and I took it to another range of; why nothink out of the box? I know I can't pvc [under] a spring. It has to be a static spring number.

Pg 13-2 ~ First gen FSM. Use pound increments in half or whole, I believe? Aftmkt or the factory may have spring rates you can buy a set of the same, swap a wink-10-wink with one 14-wink-wink, IF... If the the lengths are the same? Shading! Sneak over to a Busa size and check that length? Oh, then I'd pvc up the shim so both forks are even, say the busa spring is short. That is not shimming a load to it, right? That is just taking the slop out to gain back the static of the other fork's O/L length.

Dandy handy dandy upside down my pound scale. I would want to see what pound my springs are if I push an inch down? More? Either way, I have some sort of idea what my screw torque is going to be per leg.

I forget the theory about shimming up an oil pump, but bottom line, you'll have to spend some bucks if the springs come in increments. That's how you wind up the load. Kind of makes sense being the unit is one spring rate. Same as blending fuels and oils. Rate or weight, this is an art.

Fork tuning, is a black art like engine tuning. You'll learn to read your tires. There was a suspension guru that just died awhile back. This guy was trained by that person. When he speaks, you listen. Here's a freebee. Wait for the vid. Clean year ears out before you play it.

It's that simple a black art. Yeah right. My jaw dropped. We are no longer in OZ anymore!

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/17/2012 @ 5:29 PM *

WTF

I think he thinks this is the fork spring thread.

This is Q&A, so fork is fork extended. You have to remember, someone looks up 'fork' they get the forking business around here. The beauty is, you got your answer. Now, listen and learn from the masters out there. No one listens to me, so I figure I'll wait for someone that does...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8Qmd88mYm4

This could digress into a discussion of table ware or the merits of the spork.

Spork?....what the heck is a spork?

fer God sake's...I'm only kidding.Don't get Hub started...or me either for that matter

Spork is how to sport up the forkings. This is not about liability if you crash; that is your problem you moved what came off the showroom floor, no? The design was there. It does not say move forks. It says move dials and spring tension.

Dropping the weight down, loading the front forks with the rubber baby buggy bumpers; what is that front end doing now under the tire? So yes, you mess with the front end, you better change some settings or get spit off up the road. You haVe options with the variables I didn't have to play with back then.