Could someone please tell me what are the advantages of / reasons for using, and disadvantages of 110 octane racing fuel? Also, any engine issues?

road use or racing ... at 10.00 a gallon its pricey

No issues, just won't make as much power unless you have a timing controller. more octane = slower burn which means less power.

I BELIEVE THAT STUFF GUMS UP IN THE TANK REAL BAD IF U DO USE IT ALL .MAKE SURE U DRAIN THE TANK OR RUN THE TANK DRY.I COULD BE WRONG THOUGH

http://johnhaller.com/jh/useful_stuff/disable_caps_lock/

-OR-

http://www.worldstart.com/tips/shared/capslocktrick.htm

-OR-

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 4/8/2009 @ 11:44 AM *

1+ ALUCARD.

Next time you pull the service cover on the frame, take a paper towel, spray brake/contact clean on a part of your fingertip is now swab the injector. Not the rubber V-Boot, but the throttle body itself. There is so much "Tack," the only way to remove the paper it left on the bottom of your shoe/year ass leaving the lav, is if I do not [personal hygiene tip pee is] wash the Dickie... It becomes, Sticky; you not be shaking my hand with that.

Can you imagine race gas locking that injector piston is pull back the skin and she stays there!
DATS RACINGas!

Shad UP, Cutter! [the wife come running in asking what the F again?]

and whom was the idiots that invented CAPS as SHOUTING ...My computer has never shouted or speak anything ever

hub why don't you swab a gas pump with 93... or better yet E85... and see what you get ..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 4/8/2009 @ 11:38 AM *

Well, that's WOT eye said you sticky dicky

http://encyclopediadramatica.com/ALL_CAPS

PERFECT PORN AND CAPS

thanx Badzx14r for the SUPPORT ON THE CAPS LOCK.i actually was going to be suspended from one of my KFX700 boards because of that.the peeps need to get over it & grow UP . LOL :) cant we all just get along.at least it gives us something to chat about

i've just never understood the shouting thing on Internet ...i prefer CAPS cause i'm old and going blind hell this better yet

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 4/8/2009 @ 12:27 PM *

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shift_key

SERIOUSLY!

justfknw/uguys.imnotagramrnazi

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 4/8/2009 @ 12:36 PM *

Could someone please tell me what are the advantages of / reasons for using, and disadvantages of 110 octane racing fuel? Also, any engine issues?

JDC, with you running a turbo you could raise your boost and advance your timing higher than you have right now, without worrying about detonation. Then of course, you'll need to set your tune to take advantage of those changes. But if you leave your setup pretty much "as is", you won't see any gain. In fact you might even loose some power, Like Slow stated. You want the lowest octane fuel your bike can run without detonation to make the most power. I also remember reading Brock said it would gum up his tank if it wasn't completely drained, like Alucard wrote.

You want the lowest octane fuel your bike can run without detonation to make the most power.

That's interesting. Do you run regular, premium, or mid-grade gas from the gas pump. I've always used the highest octane available, but maybe that's not the best idea? -bg

* Last updated by: bgordon on 4/8/2009 @ 12:55 PM *

Don't feel bad BG. The oil companies have spent un-told money convincing the general public that "Premium" high octane fuel equals higher horsepower. It's simply not true. To put it simply, octane rating is used to illustrate the ability of fuel to resist detonation as it's compressed. That's all. Doesn't mean it's better fuel as the "Premium" label suggest's.

Do a Goggle search of high octane myth. Ton's of info about it.

During the summer months I run the mid-grade. I do this because the hotter an engine is, the better the chances are the fuel will ignites before it should, I.E. detonation. During the winter I just run regular in it. Starts easier in the cold!!

Of course your at a much higher elevation than I am. Next time your close to empty, just put about a gallon or so in of mid-grade. After you get the motor up to full operating temp lug your motor as much as you can. If you hear detonation go fill it with premium. If you don't, fill it on up with mid-grade and enjoy the added fuel mileage and horsepower.

Fascinating stuff. Thanks! -bg

I have not had any problems yet , I run the boost at #10 , the only issue I see is if you use leaded fuel the o2 sensor might not last as long , the fuel I run cam2, I know the VP fuels are very unstable .

the only issue I see is if you use leaded fuel the o2 sensor might not last as long ,

testing a double bung on the 02 sensor now ... 9000 miles and i killed three 02 sensors .. was told it wasn't the leaded fuel but the sensors in the exhaust flow

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 4/8/2009 @ 3:19 PM *

BG, i run 89 octane pump gas in my bike. And you know how it runs. Plus, i have a thin head gasket which means higher compression. You can run 87 on a totally stock bike and make as much (or more) power then on 91/93

* Last updated by: Slowninja on 4/8/2009 @ 4:56 PM *

Thanks, (not)Slow. Will try it next fill-up. -bg

Slowninja wrote:

You can run 87 on a totally stock bike

I've run regular 87 octane several times in cooler weather. I'm just afraid of what might happen if I run it hard on the low octane. I feel pretty safe with 89 octane in any weather. I'd only use premium for peak rpm runs in warm weather. I've heard premium leaves a mess of injectors. I saw pics, yechh!

Now about detonation, seems you have a 50% chance of surviving that. It is only serious if it happens on the compression or exhaust stroke, right? Is it usually bad enough to damage the motor if it fires on the up stroke?

Rook

Rook I might be missing something in your question. If I am sorry. Also this is probably an oversimplified explanation but........ What we commonly call detonation should actually be referred to as pre-detonation. It is the air fuel mixture combusting to early in the compression stroke. Way to many factors can cause this to try to list here. The rattle you hear is the piston knocking on the cylinder walls, or the rods banging on the crank bearings. Or maybe a combination of both. That pre-detonation is trying to force the piston back down when the momentum of the normal rotation hasn't peaked over the top thereby transitioning into the power stroke. It kinda get's confusing when you factor in we advance the timing so the plugs fire before the piston reaches top dead center. But you need that because it takes a few rotational degrees for the mixture to ignite as it should. So to answer your question pre-detonation only happens on the compression stroke. We also have detonation on the exhaust stroke. That's the popping noise you hear coming from your exhaust, mainly when you have after market pipes because they are not as well baffled. That's the left over fuel igniting in the header. Someday's I like that sound coming out of the exhaust, and others I don't. But it really doesn't hurt anything.

^^Thanks. That gives me a much better idea of what is happenning. I see detonation isn't likely ever to happen on the down stroke because compression is being relieved at that point. Any unburned fuel is less likely to ignite as compression is reduced.

Sounds like predetonation is not as serious as I thought it might be. I was imagining it being a strong enough force to stop the motor or drive it in the opposite direction. I suppose when I get my aftermarket pipe on, I'll be able to tell if it's happennig. I hear no rattles now. No pops audible with stock pipes either.

Rook

Keep thinking it through Rook. You on the right track. Oh God, I sound like Hub, LOL!! Again to keep it simple, picture a 1 cylinder, 4 stroke motor as a circle. You have "proper full" detonation just as the cylinder peeks past T.D.C. and starts on the downward power stroke. That's when the air fuel mixture is lit off with the spark plug, just as it should. The resulting explosion will force the piston to travel down to B.D.C. Through the momentum carried through the crank that piston will then start to rise. The exhaust valve should be open so the rising piston will push the spent air fuel mixture out of the cylinder. The piston will reach T.D.C. and again due to the circle of the rotating crankshaft the piston will start to travel back down the cylinder. Your intake valve should be open and the vacuum created from the downward travel will pull a fresh charge of air and fuel back into the motor. Your piston will again reach B.D.C. then start to rise back up compressing that air fuel mixture. It will rotate back up till your plug fires again and it starts all over again. If your timing is advanced to much the plug will fire to early in the circle and you hear the knock. If you octane isn't high enough, meaning your fuel flashes to fast, you'll hear the knock. So you put a higher flash point, or slower burning fuel in to help control it. The drawback, for this discussion, is the slower burning fuel, I.E. the 93 octane, doesn't have the same explosive energy as your 89 octane. It doesn't fire all at once. It fires a micro second slower, releasing less energy. That's why Slow said use the lowest octane fuel you can, without pre-detonation, to make the most horsepower.

And yes, to those that know, I realize I've omitted a BUNCH!! Just trying to keep it simple.

Pre-detonation can do a number on a motor. I've seen lot's of ruined pistons. The lands between the rings missing, or scored cylinder walls from it. As well as a few trashed rod bearings. It's not something you want to ignore over time. You can advance the timing to the point a motor will become VERY hard to start because it's trying to run, for lack of a better word, backwards!!