I noticed since I heard that sound from my pipes, in the morning now when she's cold,she doesn't want to go into the cold start mode,which is troubling.The idle as well has been increasing(at no particular time),and decreasing(at no particular time)....I'm not talking about unstable idle.I mean,sometimes I'll shut er off,come back in a bit,start er up-the idle will be low,like it's been hand adjusted.Then other times,it is higher,by perhaps 3 or 400 rpms.Any thoughts on this guys?I don't think it was doing this after I reinstalled the throttlebodies-this began when I mentioned about how my pipes changed pitch(lower).(a weekend or two ago).I noticed when my pipes did the noise thing, when we stopped she was idling low,and when I went to restart-it fired,then died from the low idle.She's always run great,no idle issues at all.In the morning,she'll barely run now unless I give er some gas,then after a few times of that(as she's running),she'll "kind of" kick in to the cold mode-but not as before.Hope my baby's not broken.For a few "almost" consecutive fuel fill-ups,I added Techron(in the bottle) as per instructions to the fuel.(Last time was last week when I went riding).Could this be messing with the internals or something?(in the throttlebodies or intakes?).I never had to adjust idle before-she would go straight to the cold start operation,then drop down nicely to around 1000 rpms.And on starting when riding and stopping,then restarting,she always fired up,right at the correct idle.I adjusted my throttle free play,and the return cables.The throttle free play is tiny,but a bit there.The return function seems to be working okay.Anyone know if the return function could have an effect on the cold start function?Maybe too stiff?Not allowing throttle to "open"for the cold function?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/16/2009 @ 8:55 PM *

On the throttle return question, I've noticed that it is possible to cut throttle lower than idle by twisting forward on the grip just slightly(not that I recommend doing that a lot). I would think it might be possible to have that adjusted too tight but if there is a bit of play, I don't think that would be your bike's trouble.

It seems to me that my bike idles just a tiny bit faster when the air is cooler, even after the engine has completely warmed up. I have my engage lamp set on the lowest setting, 1200 rpm, and it will flicker intermittently in 1st gear at an idle when the air is cooler. When the air is warm, the engage lamp stays off until I touch the throttle. Perhaps this is part of your situation. Mine probably fluctuates by 400 rpm from air temp difference but never had it die out on start up. It always goes to fast idle for a bit on start up even when the engine is a little warm.

Maybe there is something going on with your air temp sensor under the left airbox cover???

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/16/2009 @ 9:59 PM *

Thanks Rook-I just went out and changed to a new air filter.The other was quite bad.I also while I had the plastics off inspected around my throttlebodies-all seemed fine(gaskets and connections).Looked at the cables on the throttle body.Noticed when you turn the key on,there's a little sound in there(not the fuel pump sound)-and the actuator moves down on the idle plate,giving her a tad of throttle.That's the cold start deal I assume.With my cables now set,it pushes down just barely,enough for an increase in idle.So tomorrow when she's cold,I'll see if it's okay.It was working when I turned the ignition on.Looks to me like the only actual adjustment for this will be the throttle free play,and return action.If she's too tight,it won't allow that actuator to press on the idle plate-least that's what it looks like anyway.In the manual,there's really no info about the cold start deal in relation to the cable adjustments(I couldn't find it anyway).Thanks again Rook!

If there is no reference, try my way is one way is work the cables at the adjuster thumb wheels near the screen is follow the cables off the grip or the throttle perch, run all the threads into the cable so there is MAX SlacK at the bell crank.

You hear the actuator run the choke map or the morning map with the rich set. So, say the cable adjust is the problem. That is one of two that come to mind. So are we key on? Cold engine? Actuator at full throw with key one and kill on?

Now, run both cables even with the threads out of both cables. Make sure you have an eighth to a quarter turn of slack at the pull side. Turn key off the same cold engine. No starting on this one idea. Now feel the slack on the cable?

Can you run the rest even up the threads out on both cables? You can run zero free play and be on the ragged edge all the time, or run a little slack so if you hit a bump, you hit a free play on the bounce that is not so jerky sensitive.

Say we have that cable out of the way. Did you say you reinstalled the flies? I do not remember if you caught a video or I did not use it, but showed a trick as to balance the blades so they show a leak on the drip-drip? Drop-Drop, Fizz-Fizz, oh watt a relief it is not the electrics but the bent blades with the bad idle?

Maybe that was number two and throttle sync is three, the given?

Thanks Hub-gonna try it this AM and see what she does.No-don't have flies-NOoooooooooooooooooooo!.

I did a complete fly hysterectomy and its all manual throttle startup now. No servo controlled idle. The only thing that keeps it running cold is a rich mixture.

I always thought the flies opened 100% on cold start up which would seem to indicate that flies in /flies out would make no dif for cold start.

??