Having done some research on the matter, The Braketech Axis SS rotors look like winners!
I am hoping someone here has tried this and has a report on how it is working out.
I scored these little beauties recently and some Core Moto lines are on the way.

* Last updated by: ironheadmike on 1/19/2018 @ 11:57 AM *

Nice. If possible could you weigh those for me? I was considering Beringers last winter and they were a reasonable weight loss but very expensive/ounce of reduction in weight. Something like $200/ounce. $200/lb is good. The Brembos might also add a bit of performance but if you ask me, that is mainly the master cylinder.

I'm thinking ISR for max weight reduction and reasonable price. I don't know if I could outride the OEM brakes on the 14.

Very good reasoned points all. Yes I will get them weighed for you asap.
Much like that rear shock assembly; all I got is, just look at them!
The gold just rocks against my Golden Blaze Green paint and the gold accents
steady appearing around the bike. To be capped off with gold Carros.
The 320 mm rotors will also look very works and the Braketechs have the anodized
Buttons as well as a very nice price. Am very excited to get used to the new feel.
The master cylinder I am running on this setup is a Brembo 19 RCS.

You definitely got your race bling going on! I think the calipers will weigh about the same as OEM but they're Brembo! Very nice! I think you will get more of an instant grab with the MC but imho, the stock MC is very good. I'd still go with Brembo everything if I need it or not. Too cool to not have. Brakes are getting so good on literbikes that that the 14's once awesome brakes are playing second fiddle. I can't quite imagine how you would need better than stock brakes unless you are experiencing brake fade but better is always better!

Brakes are getting so good on literbikes that that the 14's once awesome brakes are playing second fiddle

I have the exact same Nissin calipers and Nissin master on the 14 and my track only zx10
and they are a great set up.

I can't quite imagine how you would need better than stock brakes unless you are experiencing brake fade but better is always better!

Has more to do with the brake pads you choose.

MC and calipers are just a basic hydraulic system that work off a ratio. Doesn't matter what MC or Calipers,
if they have the same caliper piston size, master cylinder piston size, rotor size and lever leverage they will have the same ratio and pretty much be the same in performance. The pads is what's going to make a difference.

Changing MC/caliper piston size or lever leverage will change the ratio and the performance/feel.

Figuring out what ratio you prefer is a great way to be able to set up future bikes to your preference.
I messed with trying to keep track of brake ratios and change accordingly but never followed through.

On the track I brake as hard as I can on every turn, it's the pads that do the heavy lifting. The last set
of pads Carbone Lorraine C60's only lasted 7 track days, around 700 miles. Trying some SBS 838RS next weekend.
The stock Nissin's are a great setup unless you want a different feel (ratio) or bling is good too.

320mm, is stock 310mm? will need some 5mm spacers too for the calipers.

320mm, is stock 310mm? will need some 5mm spacers too for the calipers.

The rotors and spacers can be purchased from Carrazzeria. The rotor bolt pattern is only for Carrazzeria. If Braketech makes 320 mm rotors, I think I'd go with those over CZ. My CZ rotors are very light but I believe it causes a serious vibration under hard braking. That could be why they only recomend organic pads which I think would be a waste of good braking. Kevlar might be a bit better for pads but I doubt anything will beat a sintered composition like the stock pads. AFAIC, stock and EBC sintered are about the same but EBC HH was not as squeaky at light braking/low speed.

and aftermarket lines look cool and are a lot lighter if you go with kevlar but I noticed no change in braking performance. Probably it would be more noticeable if I could get my brake fluid very hot.

I dont think carro has rotors now. Core Moto is now the owner/ manufacturer. They used to require non stock
rotors but now, these new Carros work w stock rotors. The sprocket required is a ZX12 fitment...I had Chris at 58cycle check into the big brake package you scored Rook, not a thing now. I suspect the all Brembo Front brake component setup will give a different feel. The greater diameter rotor has to provide a bit more braking leverage. So my motivations are not all bling.
PIKEN!
What pads are in that picture? The worn jobs are the 700 mile CL's?

* Last updated by: ironheadmike on 1/20/2018 @ 7:33 PM *

ROOK- with pads

Thanks, Mike. This is the 14's. IDK if it's with pads but looks like probably without. so you got a winner all around. Berringer is 990 g with pads.

What is the model # of these calipers?

Rook ol' boy!
Man I was on a quest to find that model # info so I could be sure I chose the right ratio master cylinder to drive the little beauties. The attached pix are the best I could do. Brembo referred to them as 24 carat calipers. Hah!
I did find the Suzuki part # as they are take offs from a 2012-14 GSXR 1000. Both pics are attached.

* Last updated by: ironheadmike on 1/21/2018 @ 6:42 PM *

This seems like a fine place to give a sneak peek at some new titanium hanging on the old girl. I have the new Core Moto lines as well but waiting for the Carro's to arrive for the whole super wrench session...(wringing hands like a man possesed)

OH! Damn you!!! You got me beat on the rear caliper Ti!!! damn. That axle nut is also very nice but I will forego. With the axle sliders, it's not visible but still, you have cut the weight in half by going to Ti. I'm tempted to use aluminum on the caliper halves -- it's a pretty big thread, M8, I think---but that's risky. Word of caution, I did break a Ti ProBolt. It was a small one and was overtorqued but seems like it should have withstood general spec for M8 even if it was M6. I'd go under torque spec on almost everything. You know, if you are going to be messing around with stuff and possibly taking apart again anyway, it's lighter on all the threads. Check them twice a year and go light on the torque is my suggestion. Only one messed threads on my bike and that was a fairing fastener. I hope to avoid as many as possible as long as possible. LokTite is good. Try applying only to the top few threads. It can be misleading later on if all the threads are filled with LokTite. Pretty hard to tell the dif between LockTited threads and damaged threads. I sometimes skip on the LockTite if the old stuff is still feeling snug.

Nice bolts, man!

Maybe a Bremo made exclusively for Gixxers? I see them online but no part #

Right, I think they are just for gixxers. Took some surfing on the Brembo site to find them, and it was by findind the factory specific stuff. Their configurator is a real cool tool as well. That was the path to finding the correct master cylinder. Yes the caliper pinch bolts are pretty husky and the 27.1 ft lbs of torque required made me stick w the TI for those. Now the pad pin only came in SS as I recall so theres that. But it is still the sexy gold. I did get the race style engine kit in gold aluminum and yeah, they look cool against the black covers. I couldnt even get to 1/2 the torque spec on those little jems and feel good about it, so safety wire seems like a slam dunk there. I am only half way through that process with just the clutch cover done so I will Share some pix when all done.

I've never lost an engine cover bolt. My valve cover bolts were loose but they never came out. I torque according to spec inside the motor but outside snug is good enough on most things. I did have my Ti rear brake rotor bolts back out. I caught them before they touched the caliper mount. LokTite.

You guys need brake tech rotors let me know

Just shipped thes out today for a 2017 GIXXER

Hey Sport Bike- how much for a set of axis iron 320 mm for a 2012 zx14r?

I would PM 06blackpearl or visit one of his threads in the for sale section. I imagine he subscribes to his own for sale threads.

Rook, that caliper weight was with pads.
There are some lighter rotors available now that should be interesting. They weigh almost the same as ceramic/carbon rotors, but are useable at lower temp. Metal Matrix tech, aluminum alloy rotor with a high tech ceramic coating.. Weighs about half of what the rear Galfer wave rotor is..
Galfer 870 g

Brilo about 400 g

Brilo Tech

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 4/27/2018 @ 1:48 PM *

Rook, that caliper weight was with pads.

More with the styling you say??? They have some of the coolest looking custom rotors I've seen.. I just like simple designs that are as light and functional as possible, but they'll make whatever you want design wise.
Their zx14/hayabusa kit incorporates 340mm rotors that weigh about what stock 310 mm rotors weigh, but work up to very high temps, and are made with hats/centers of a newer type of cnc'd titanium alloy that's used in new fighter aircraft.
If the rear works out I might look at a set of 320/310mm rotors but with aluminum hats to drop more weight.

Brilo Display

Brilo hub

Brilo large rotor

Weight comparison

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 4/27/2018 @ 7:58 PM *

What kind of price point on thise kickass rotors!?

Never tried but IMHO, the 320 CZs I have do not make a dif in breaking power I can feel. Maybe they do but I don't brake hard enough to tell. They are noisey and vibrate under hard braking...but that's CZ, not Braketech. Just sayin, I do not think you will gain an appreciable braking performance unless you are an expert.

They look very cool though and mine were actually a big weightloss (thin and that's probably why they vibe).

What does the extra 20mm of diameter do anyway?? The contact between the brake pads and rotor is the same. Maybe the extra diameter provides increased leverage? Lighter squeeze, more leverage requires less powerful squeeze of the pads?

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/7/2018 @ 2:39 PM *