Can anyone tell me how setting my sag(if needed)will affect the suspension?Ride quality?Thanks again!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/13/2011 @ 12:47 PM *

Say you adjust the ball cock on a toilet handle. You can bend the arm so the water level comes up higher. Bend it the other way, you stop the flow and can shorten the level in the filler bowl. Toilet bowl has it's own level. Not that I should have brought that up, let's throw one more at you.

Say a seagull lands on your float bobber. you had that level all perfect as you filled more water to sink the ball to get that level where you want it. Seagull comes along and his weight brings it down past your level. If you removed the liquid, the ball would rise, the bird's weight would have been you on the bike like back to that level bike.

Say you are heavy. You don't want the bike to sit higher or lower when the balance is if you threw it in the middle, the rake/trail would work as per. Jacking up the springs would raise you back up to even, not sink your weight down on a light setting for a lighter rider to clunk on down the seat and the bike planes even level.

Ride quality seems it would work as you find the middle of that bike. Get someone to read the numbers. YOu sit with feet up; write that sag number down. What was the static number? Hi/low says middle number for your weight says stick it here.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/13/2011 @ 1:33 PM *

without correct sag you could either bottom out or the ride would be too stiff, plain and simple.

Okay....very good...excellent answers both.I will have my mech adjust next time I'm in...which will be probably SOON.I don't think the rear Diablo is gonna last but only a few more thousand miles.(maybe I'll get over there sooner )

Now I wonder...HUB(or Edge)...could I adjust this myself?I'm guessing,yes.On a rear stand?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/13/2011 @ 1:51 PM *

I recently asked the expert suspension guys at the track to set up my suspension. It would have cost $40. I told the guy I already did it and it was improved. He looked at tthe bike and after seeing that it was stock suspension he was NOT leading me in the direction of spending the $40 on his services. He as much as told me, "I don't think there is a lot more I could do that you have not already done." I'm sure the suspension could have been stiffened up a bit for the track but that is not hard to do yourself. If you don't feel like screwing around with it, I would pay a modest fee and they will likely get you better performance than stock settings. Just make sure you know whatt the original settings were so you can back if you no like.
You will need to sit on the bike for your mech to do the sag so might as wel try doing it yourself first ,IMO....unless your mech will do it cheap.

Setting sag is like zeroing a scale before you weigh something. By setting proper sag, the suspension is riding at the optimum height for the weight of the bike + rider(/passenger) + gear. If your sag is too high. the ride will be bouncy. Too low and the bike will fly up off of bumps.

Sag is the difference in measurement between the suspension fully open (unloaded) to partially compressed by weight of bike and rider.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/13/2011 @ 4:47 PM *

You need to order this tool from Kaw to set your rear preload to achieve desired sag. $40. Someone is going to get your 40 bucks no matter what you do. You can use a punch and hammer instead for the caveman approach. Never tried but Heathun recommended as an alternative to buying the spanner. Should work

Me like the Heathun approach That's how I've been adjusting my rear preload....forever!(not a punch,but a bigazz flattip screwdriver)Bought TWO of those hook wrenches...fuc8e*s don't work worth a shi$!!Even with the heel guards removed.I MUST be doing something wrong when I go to use em...that guy on the video...shit...he made short work of that preload adjustment using the hook tool.Mine are the kind that have that rivet in there,lets em move ya know.Can't get that sucker to "lock" on the ring to save my life.I swear....waste o' money IMO...????Yours there..now that looks a bit different,not shapewise,but it's at least ONE PIECE!That one works?It's a Kawi tool?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/13/2011 @ 5:27 PM *

A long round punch works even better and won't cut into the adjuster, Blue. Better get a 1lb sledge because they don't like to move easy.

Did you find a good explanation of how to set the sag yet? Because I could scan a page out of the Sportbike Perf Handbook and post it for you.

I'll google it and see what I can find.Thanks Edge....good one!

Rook is no squid if you tool up. Someone step in front of that fish market with a hammer and punch might be smelling like squiddiddy in the cheap seats. Tearing up bike... Imagine how other executions happen around that punch an judy toot tea.

Go ahead, ask me where my shock tool is? Under seat. Say, prove it... I dare ya!

Those of us with 'Manly Hands' can't use those silly spanners, HUB. How often are you fiddling with the rear shock that you need to keep a spanner ready anyways. If my punch could talk it'd make you scream, Hubber!

See. Even this girl uses a Punch. lol

Yours there..now that looks a bit different,not shapewise,but it's at least ONE PIECE!That one works?It's a Kawi tool?

I ordered from dealer and I am quite certain it is a Kawi tool. Speced from the SM. I don't think there is anything stamped on it but I will look if you want.

It is one piece and it is easy to use as long as you get the entire inner circumference around the the same nut (adjuster or lock). Those two flat nuts are squeezed close together so you need to look closely to see you are not hooked in one and turning on the other. Otherwise, worked very well for me. The lock nut was not hard to break free. Both turned easily once they were broken free. I think the lock nut, I was able to spin on the threads by hand after it broke.

I developed a little trick for measuring sag. Best to have a friend with a good eye to measure two points between the swingarm and the tail but it is possible to do yourself. I stuck a fine point felt tip in the rear axle and taped a long piece of cardboard from bottom of tail to the felt tip. The bike is on front and rear stands to keep level and upright. Carefully slowly easily creep on the bike with gear to compress suspension. Felt tip will draw a line on card. Measure the line. Repeat several times. (good to use several layers of tape in the line drawing area so you can rip off and start afresh)

Works great for front. Same technique, just wrap a zip tie around the shiny part of the fork. Measure the travel of the fork off off the zip tie to bottom casting (grey painted part with caliper mount)of fork.

I will try to dig up the thread where I went into this with Heathun. I should do a how too on this.

I haven't yet actually checked the sag.I did stiffen the rear shock up some,and added some preload to the front.Tried to follow what that guy Dave Moss is showing in his bike setups.She's "stiffer" now...that's for sure.Just need to get out now and try it out.I'm certainly not gonna be taking any turns at 160 or anything.Not that know of.But 120,130 has been doable.So we'll see how she handles soon.If it is partly a sag issue...this "sometimes" wiggle deal...there can't be TOO much sag as it is right now.We'll see.I can always change it as I'm riding.No biggie.Thank you all for the input.

As she sits now,I can't really imagine the rear end,chassis wallowing at all.Gonna drop my tire pressures as well(?),to like 38...something like that...AFTER I see how she does setup as is now.My not need to.

I noticed with my friend's 08 Busa...the ride was pretty "stiff" feeling.Taking it through the curves,I thought it felt TOO stiff....kinda sketchy feeling.I DID NOT like the feeling that the frontend was transmitting every bump and road imperfection to the bars.But she held...as far as I was willing to go....didn't want to wreck my buddy's bike ya know!I certainly wasn't riding it like I ride mine.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/14/2011 @ 2:18 PM *