Anyone on this forum remove the secondary throttle butterflies, shaft and actuator motor on their Gen 2 bike? If so, did you just leave the actuator plug open, or did you jumper some wires to fool the ECU into thinking it is still present? In the latter case, does anyone know how to jumper the wiring? I have the GUHL ECU flash, but still received a secondary throttle sensor code last season. Thanks all

Leave it alone. Here's why:
1. You remove shaft, 4 subthrottle plates, stepper motor, and sub-sensor.
2. Close the shaft's holes, reassemble the throttle body.
3. Door handle hole saw will drill out a plastic mounting disc.
4. Buy a small mm tap so the subthrottle sensor screw can be mounted on the disc.
5. Windup the subthrottle sensor with a ???, mirror matching, male to female fitting so as to grab the internal spring with an arm you need to make. This holds the spring's initial windup. Duplicate the shaft's end into the sensor.
6. Turn key on and move the sub's sensor on the disc so it flips the code light off. Move it incrementally so the sensor clears the code and wait. That, or buy the subthrottle test harness out of the shop book, set the ohm meter to read the closing number and that is where you now drill the disc for the screw, so as to position the sub sensor in the closed ohm resistance reading. Drill and tap for the screw and lock the sensor down.
7. The sub main harness is so far away from the throttle body end, you'll have to have the disc small enough to keep the harness connector to sub sensor connector close enough to reconnect. Do not mod the wires to extend the sub's main harness.

After all that, if you are successful, you'll loose a smoothing effect of the engine's output. You'll eliminate the air brake, and one of the mode changes to save your ass from flipping over. The 3 interventions are ign curve goes retard/injector time shortened/subs closing once the wheel lifts. And if the dyno reads right, sub removal looses 2hp at the top.

ECU theory works something like this:
a.Analog means many. Digital means one. The sub sends many positions up to the ECU. It knows where the throttle is and then opens or closes the sub plate as per demand.
b. The shop manual explains short abstract sentences, where you already understand a little basic move of analog and a digit.
c. Where the diagnostic tree says, (1)is the connector connected? (2) is a wire out of a connector? (3) sensor short/improper ohms reading out of range.
d. Notice how those 3 variables have one thing in common, 'one think points out,' is to think a loss of analog input is now digital in input. How? Connector not connected is zero input or one constant that shows it's the same over and over. A wire out of the connector no longer closes a loop so the lamp bulb does not light up for example. That too showed the same zero input, or one input read over and over as a single digit up to the ECU. The same digit will be shown if you move the sub out of position. This says, 'signal out of range' even though it sends the analog, it broke out of a given calculation variable used to position the sub plate. The code light shuts off once it's within range using the ohm meter.
e. The ECU takes action. It flips to a safety net inside the ECU. So when the processing sees an electrical pulse, it can read it as a value. A value being a 1 or 0 in the pulse. It's more complicated than that in binary speak numbers wise; but say the analog did read: 101011010110001. When the connector/wire/short happens, the input now reads: 0000000000, or digital, which is no longer in analog. Not too many mechanics understand a processor's basic move, so the shop manual's abstract reads: 'We apply a safety measure to save the engine from damage'.
f. So when you see the code light come on, it went to a backup and sort of limped the bike until repaired. So if you sort of see what you mentioned about using a 'jumper wire', that jump still means digital. The light remains on. No joy.

Seat of the pants, I wouldn't waste my time, knocking out smooth and loosing 2hp.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/13/2020 @ 4:43 PM *

If you remove the secondary you probably need to run an Stve harness from healtech. With a ported and smoothed throttle body and short velocity stacks we gained a few hp and extended the power curve a few rpm higher.STVE

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 2/6/2021 @ 3:40 PM *