I own a 2006 zx14 ninja with 4 into 1 exhaust ,pcIII,secondary butterflies removed,Brand new lithium gel filled battery ,everything works as it should ,,, i have 2 problems ,, 1: bike starts first time evrytime, runs sweet as open road riding is excellent but it runs cold as like only the first temp bar, at that temperature when coming to a stop entering city limits at an intersection is stalls out ,, starts up but flutters abit for a few seconds,, upon riding in city limits the temp comes up a couple of bars and it idles perfect as it should when stopping again,any ideas as to what this could be its dam dangerous and tryin to sort it ASAP, 2; brand new battery a week ago charges at aroung 14.2 volts .. when turning the key onto accessories dash lights up as it should needles move right then back to zero, but the clock and trip meters are set to 1;00 and zero everytime the key gets turned on off then on but the clock works and trip meter whilst riding the bike ,, its dam annoying as hell any ideas cheers Im a newby at this forum thing CHEERS

* Last updated by: casperzx14NINJA on 7/9/2017 @ 8:01 AM *

runs cold as like only the first temp bar, at that temperature when coming to a stop entering city limits at an intersection is stalls out ,, starts up but flutters abit for a few seconds,, upon riding in city limits the temp comes up a couple of bars and it idles perfect as it should when stopping again

Remove and test coolant temp sensor. There is no such thing as a 14 running at 1 bar. If you live in a hot climate, you might have 1 bar even before you start the engine. Your engine can't be that cold, it's the sensor. Obviously your temp gauge LCD is undamaged if you see the higher bars come up at a stop. It's normal to see the temp rise to 5 or even 6 bars if you are in a hot climate doing slow stop and go riding.

The coolant temp sensor might have something to do with fueling. Maybe you are running very rich because the ECU is giving cold start fueling all the time. The temp comes up to 2-3 bars and the ECU knows you are at opperating temp when infact you are quite higher than op temp but at least you get normal fueling----your fan is not kicking on as it should though. I wouldn't let that bike sit and idle too long. It will go to high temp and think it is at 3 bars.

Do you ever hear the fan? You definitely should if the air temp is 75-80 F or more and you run in city traffic. You should hear the fan spin to a stop when you key OFF. Take your radiator cap off and look at the coolant level. Have you had overflows? If the bike has not overflowed it has not overheated but sounds to me like you are headed in that direction. Does the bike feel hot as hell when you ride slow? Normal but not norml if an accurate water temp sensor sends 1-2 bars.

I think replace water temp sensor. Don't know for sure if that is what determines the ECU fueling for cold starts or if it's the inlet air temp sensor---or both, perhaps. Water temp sensor definitely does control the fan.

the clock and trip meters are set to 1;00 and zero everytime the key gets turned on off then on but the clock works and trip meter whilst riding the bike

I know the clock resets every time I put my battery back in. Never took note of the trip meter. Sounds like a possible bad connection of battery terminals. Maybe the draw from the starter causes an arch to conduct rather than solid contact. Then the power comes off the charging system while the bike is running--I believe that is how it works in a car. The battery gets charged also by the charging system but if the motor is not running, there's nowhere to get power but the battery. Check +/- are tight and check the ground screw outside of the battery box is not loose. Don't over-tighten it either. It can strip. 5 ft lbs max ought to do it.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/9/2017 @ 8:51 AM *

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when it gets to at least 3 bars on temp gauge the problem isnt there ,as for coolant spills etc have no issues with that at all, As it stands the climate is cold winter here but only ride on nicer days as when getting a little slight warmish sun during the day when i choose to ride ,i leave bike for about 5 minutes to warm up after cold start , maybe bit longer before riding off,generally approx 3 temp bars , and stop start riding around town is generally fine never gets any closer than 1 bar under hot in summer time ,, so in saying that the thermo fan cuts in good and when key is switched off the fan turns off and winds down no issues there, open road riding like 110kms per hour ,,, it runs on the temp bar ,,,2 bars including the first initial bar if ya understand that, and its generally under 3 bars on temp gauge when i have the issue of coming to a stop or slowing down to a minimun safe speed for eg,,, a round about it does cut out but a quick clutch in and hit the starter button it starts but runs shitty for a few seconds til it clears up and then shes right to go but whats the best way to test a sensor you mentioned if you can help ,,, and yes i checked the battery feed wire at back of plug to dash and theres no volts readin at the mem wire for dash ,, so gunna dig abit deeper into it cheers P.S forgot to mention when cold starting first time for the day ,, if i blip the throttle it stalls out , but starts up and runs shitty and i have noticed black bits of fuel smoke out exhaust whilst holding revs up to clear it out ,upon holding revs up at about 2300 rpm for a bit it starts to clear up then all of a sudden just smoothes off and shes good to ride , so yes i have noticed rich fuel smoke
when this problem arises . When at 3 temp bars or above theres no issues with bike or black smoke mate

* Last updated by: casperzx14NINJA on 7/12/2017 @ 7:49 AM *

Air cleaner element is how old?

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whats the best way to test a sensor you mentioned if you can help

Gen1 Service Manual P 4-14

•Remove the thermostat (see Thermostat Removal), and inspect the thermostat valve [A] at room temperature.
If the valve is open, replace the thermostat with a new one.

The thermostat is for coolant temp and is located just to the left of the cam chain tensioner. You would need to remove throttle bodies and coolant. Lots of work. I would check other things first like air cleaner first.

The inlet air temp sensor is easy to remove and test. Under the fuel tank in LH access door cover. Just pull it out and dip the probe in a glass of water to test.

If you are riding in Greenland, your engine temp might be normal. My temp was similar to yours. 2 bars including the C bar that a lot of people don't even know is a bar. It was 30-40 F out. I don't bother riding when it's that cold anymore and I assumed you probably were not either. If it is indeed that cold where you are, the thermostat might not even be an issue. I do not even know if the thermostat has thing to do with cold start fueling. The thermostat controls the fan but I think the inlet air temp sensor triggers cold start fueling.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/13/2017 @ 9:33 AM *

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No code(s) present, no sensor(s) out of spec. Computer bikes/cars are self diagnosing (when a sensor goes out of range) = The Basics of leaving the bike/car alone.

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The SM must tell how to test sensors for some reason though. Maybe the code doesn't go off until long after the sensor has started to show symptoms.

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could be the dreaded intermittent ghost glitch gremlin has invaded the sensor or the processor circuit?

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 7/13/2017 @ 8:27 PM *

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The SM is a spec book. There is a constant tick (ping) back and forth (A/C) effect done naturally, i.e., even though the system is D/C. So ping wise if the system goes out, the backup kicks in. See code page where the preset (digital) is now the input, not a many degree input (analog) the water temp sensor was sending in.

The bike still runs but limp hot.

One move at a time = air cleaner is ???

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Change the air cleaner. $40 and takes 15 minutes.

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new air filter ,brand new lithium gel filled battery , new plugs, new oil and filter, new coolant, can leave the bike sittin for 2 weeks no charger on it at all it starts up first time everytime !!!!!!long and short of it ,,, bout to sell it ,,,, no error codes are present in it, ,,,, ride in city limits even on a cold day below 17 degrees celsius its fine runs at about half to 3/4 temp on gauge runs bloody sweet as !!!!! but when leaving city limits for the open road at the same 17 degrees air temperature it goes from 3/4 temp on gauge to 2 bars with in a short time and definately under 3 bars engine temp is where im having the issue upon coming to a stop or slowing down stalling out ,spluttering ,have to hold revs up and clutch in to keep it running but after holding revs up for a bit theres blackish smoke (fuel) out the exhaust when holding revs up til it clears out and revs smooth off the temp starts to rise and the engine smooths off and its good to go for city riding ,,,,,,,, , and that is definitely to cold of engine temperature for this bike to enter into city limits and as it coughs and splutters it wants to stall out when clutch lever is pulled in to stop,but after riding a bit in town when it hits the 4 bar or above on temp gauge its fine dont have a problem,,, JUST SICK OF IT ,P.S dont have a problem on hot days ,

Any chance the tank vent at the cap is partially clogged? something simple to check ... IDK

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How about oil?Correct for your riding conditions?What's your idle rpms set at?Like Hub says...air filter?

MAYBE,try raising your rpms to a bit higher,just to see what it does?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/26/2017 @ 5:52 PM *

the clock and trip meters are set to 1;00 and zero everytime the key gets turned on off then on but the clock works and trip meter whilst riding the bike

I wouldn't guess the battery would have anything to do with the rough engine but this is not normal unless the battery has been disconnected. Since the rough engine, clock/trip meter weirdness and new battery coincide, it is likely they are all related. What is the new piece in the puzzle? Clock/trip meter are the same, engine is the same--the battery! I would try putting a different one in, preferably one that you know runs good in the bike it came out of.

2 bars on the highway at 62 F does not sound completely out of the question. I think my bike will run at 3 bars if it is 70 F or hotter but I see 2 bars in colder weather. On a 62 F day, you should get above 3 bars if you let it sit and idle a while but that may be just a bit too cool to get past 3 bars if you are moving.

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Check your fuses and connectors. Corrosion can cause low voltage, and thats what usually causes the trip/clock reset.

* Last updated by: alg8er on 7/27/2017 @ 10:35 AM *

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ok people ,,,have sorted the issue with the clock and trip meter resetting to zero every time bike is turned off and on again,,,, there is a plug at the back of the instrument cluster ,,, that plug has a white wire with a black stripe it is the memory (B+ ) feed wire for dash,,,,, upon checking the power to it with ignition off it should have same as battery voltage ,,, but it didnt it had no volts at all,,,,, so about 3-4" down the wiring loom from the plug that white wire with black stripe was basically cut clean thru ,,, wierd but i rejoined the wire with solder and heat shrink and GUESS WHAT ????? its got battery voltage at the plug now,, so proceeded the reinstall plug to back of dash cluster and I noticed a red very slow flashing light on my cluster ,,, has never been there since i owned the ninja,, it turns out its the immobilizer warning light ,,, turned on the ignition set time on the clock turned it off and an hour later turn it back on and clock keeping time now,,,, also went thru settings on dash and now turning on the shift light and starting the bike and warming it up it now has a amber colour shift light too ,,, couldnt be more happier ,,,, just to sort the stalling issue running ice cold on the open road and she be a good thing ,,, !!! yep thats one issue knocked on the head lol

I missed the clock set with key on each time. Why I concentrated on poor running bringing up the ac, you had a good instinct to chase the dash wires and/or dash. Makes sense the clock wire remains hot with key off.

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How is your fuel economy? Based on your description I am wondering if the fuel map is way too rich.

the plug that white wire with black stripe was basically cut clean thru

Maybe someone had an accessory spliced in there with a wire nut or something. Good tracking!

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