r6 gives me the best image quality when I don't expose for the sky. However, when I upload on your tube the quality is really poor. I'm using imovie and quick movie maker. Is there any way to minimize quality loss during upload?

My first question is, what format (resolution / quality) is your movie when you export it from Imovie and Quick Movie Maker to upload to Youtube? (if the quality at this point is VGA or lower you can not expect it to get any better after Youtube formats, they convert video to Flash Video FLV format).

Lighting is everything. Great light = decent results. Poor light = less than spectacular results and often a lot of focus hunting.

Spyglass

I think r6 is 960p @ 48/50 fps. It looks pretty good on my computer screen just crappy on youtube!!!!

* Last updated by: dragking on 7/16/2012 @ 5:36 PM *

I could be wrong, but I don't think Movie Maker allows you to save using AVI format. AVI format gives me the best compromise between video quality and file size.

Kofla

NINJA ZX-14 MotoVlog

* Last updated by: KoflaOlivieri on 7/16/2012 @ 8:30 PM *

I was afraid of it but looks I'm gna have to buy some software. Dang it! I rather use the money toward my track bike lol

* Last updated by: dragking on 7/17/2012 @ 12:09 AM *

Just to get an idea what you might be up against (having been several years since I played around with Windows Movie Maker) I threw together a quick little video c/w a sound track to go with it. I selected 1080 for the output file to match that of the capture (1080, 30fps). The file size (camera captures in MOV) did increase. I think by about 60Mb. An increase was to be expected to some degree (song added, different format). Next I loaded it up to Youtube (57 min later it was ready to view). The quality looked the same as the original straight out of the camera. (excuse the vibration, this was a quick mount that I made to try the camera out. I have since modified the mount and incorporated vibration dampening) The late afternoon sun was producing a lot of warm yellow and orange overtones so I think the colour is accurate enough.

Test Video

Spyglass

* Last updated by: spyglass on 7/17/2012 @ 12:35 AM *

it looks good Spy! I've got good result with the lower mount but when I use 30fps and go fast the image is not that good. I think that the problem with my new setting (front cowl mount) is that the camera exposes for the sky and everything gets washed out. I turned the metering off and got a pretty good picture with the aforementioned r6 mode, it just look bad on your tube!

click

Dragking from what I have been able to read, it looks like the faster frame per second during capture help in producing a smoother video (which makes sense). Compare several different fps settings.

Next area to consider would be your computer's video card. High resolution videos place bigger demands on video cards. compare a high, mid, and low resolution. If you have the display back unit for your GoPro how does it look on that display in terms of smoothness.do, how does the video appear during play back compared to your computer.

The Drift offers 2 lighting modes (Sun & Low) after the firmware update. Prior to the update it was inside & outside. The Drift offer + & - exposure compensation. I wish it also offered spot, center weighted, and average weighted like most DSLR cameras. I think the Drift is basically average weight. If the majority of the view is road the cam seems to set the exposure based on road, blowing the sky out. If the majority of the cam view is sky the cam seems to set the exposure based on sky, leaving the lower regions (road) to be underexposed & dark.

I have not had enough opportunity to play with my cam yet. I just finished the side mounts and have 2 different mount to make. Perhaps we can help each other out by sharing results and experiences, making both of our learning curves a bit shorter.

If you look at my test vid, the exposure is ok for the foreground and represents what the early evening 7:30 sun was offering (warmer yellow orange tones). The sky at times is blown out. I was not happy with the vibration at times in the video. I did have the mount way too tight. I think a fast frames per second rate would also help. I am making a vibration dampening came pad / mount which should hopefully improve the situation.

Spyglass

* Last updated by: spyglass on 7/18/2012 @ 2:27 AM *

The vid looks good on the bacpac but better on the computer. I loose image quality during uploading so I agree with Kofla I may need better software. I have also been busy and have to make time to play with the settings. I also have lots of vibration depending of the location of the camera. Sometimes I put a little bit of elec tape around the male part of the mount to make the fit tighter and it seems to fix the problem. My latest camera mount is on the frame close to the area where there is the helmet hook. It let you capture a lot even with the r6 mode which isn't that wide and shows you how you rear suspension is behaving.I stole the idea from Jeffo! I will try to upload a short vid!

Perhaps we can help each other out by sharing results and experiences, making both of our learning curves a bit shorter.

I made a mount to take advantage of my frame sliders (I know some might question this location, but the way I see it going over at any sort of speed the camera is going ot be toast no matter where I place it and will be the least of my worries. For a parking lot tip over, maybe the camera would soften my baby's fall and absorb some energy - cameras are relatively inexpensive). - that almost felt like a disclaimer "not intended for all audiences" - LOL

I spun a round stock of aluminum on my lathe, left a shoulder on it that I knurled, drilled and tapped a 3/8" thread hole into the end. Turned some groves for O-rings. The O-rings create a nice snug fit. Excuse the brutal flash photos and shamefully unwashed bike - had a late night ride the day before, plastered with bugs and a little drizzle.

I bought a Ram double socket arm and use a Ram ball with its 1/4" threaded stud screwed in to the camera.

When not using the camera I just leave the aluminum spindle in place.)

I am just working on a vibration dampening pad for the camera end using a silicon gel sheet

Spyglass

* Last updated by: spyglass on 7/18/2012 @ 3:13 PM *

looks like a quality piece! I initially ordered the Drift but it was back ordered so I had to go for the HD2. I should have just waited. Here's another vid in r6 of the rearview. I uploaded directly from imovie and the quality seems a little bit better. There seems to be no vibration.

rearview

I made a mount to take advantage of my frame sliders

Spyglass, I think this is an excellent location and a more rigid bracket, it sure beats my GoPro suction cup mount. I need to come up with a better rear view mount.

Kofla

NINJA ZX-14 MotoVlog

* Last updated by: KoflaOlivieri on 7/19/2012 @ 9:02 AM *

Kofla

I am making a rear camera mount now. I bought some "quarter push turn" studs from Twisted Throttle that match my SW Motech luggage brackets (that support my V35 Givi hard side cases). I will take some pictures next week and post them. I have found when making brackets you always have to make one for either side of the bike so you have the option to mount you cam on the non sun side, or on the side with the best visual features).

I do have a suction cup mount but I think I will save it for the truck, and boat. I guess I just don't trust suction cup mounts enough.

I did make a tube like cylinder that you could slide over the rear foot pegs, and that held firmly in place with a thumb screw. I will post some picture of it next week.

Spyglass