Any opinions on the Zero-weight oil that Brock is pushing?

How about Kaw 10W-30, which he says is great, too?

Jon

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Oh man... you're just hitting all of the "hot topics" for the love of god please don't post how you think the H2 sucks compared to the <other bike here> and that the hyabusa is better but not as good as the BMW S1000RR... :D

IMO, I buy Kawasaki's oil, its cheaper than the other decent oils I can get around here and is recommended by Kawasaki (go figure), bike runs just fine, shifts good, etc, so win win win

If you want my opinion, there's no way I'd run that wafer thin oil in an engine designed for 10-40. Not for a little horse power

I've always ran Rotella T6 synthetic in my bikes. It's great oil, at a great price, and you can find it at Walmart any day every day. Combine that with a puralator pure one PL14610 filter and you're done.

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Does Brock run 0w for most HP? Yes.
Does Brock first run the bike up to running temp? Yes.
Does Brock run a lot of R&D on the bike and that takes hours on the dyno and is the bike still alive? Yes.
Does 10w on the can say 10w any temp cold or hot? Yes.
Does 0w turn the oil light off Brock's bike as in wafer thin still has pressure backed up to close the light fandango?
Does a chit can cross the road to buy I'm scared, so in goes 20w50? Here I go with more drag, but 10w still says it's hot out so low as it goes is either way 10w will do ya... do you see it?

Racing bikes use 0w for that hp edge and are they blowing up left and right during the race? No.
Will the engine see too much wafer thin, if used as 5w30 and that is 5 away from 0. So when the engine is that cold, needs that kind of wafer thin movement, makes oil pressure, warms up the car each time, are we not seeing oil pressure made, lube sent warm or extreme cold, we use 0w10 say are the numbers? Ask yourself if 0w killed the engine once pressurized, hot on the dyno/track/street. Make sense?

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It may not kill it in the short term,but what about long term street miles Hub? How much oil pressure is actually lost? For someone who references the manual like a bible, you sure are contradicting yourself.

It may not accelerate wear, but then again it may. There are some factory recommendations I'll fudge on, but oil weight isn't one of them. That's just me,and my opinion.

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It may not kill it in the short term,but what about long term street miles Hub?

That I don't know, but no problem if I ran 0w on the street and find out. This is still a thick base, has to flow out the can like water and when hot, even more is the thinner flow. But there is one thing-think you cannot do with a liquid is compress it. So lets follow the flow - Gravity hits the blades, we look at an oil bag off a harley, see the hose drop on top of the pump body. Lock your fingers so your thumb locks down on your thumb, pinky on pinky; see the air gap between the interlock? That's where the liquid is locked in those blades as if your fingers did the talking is mimic an oil pump blade side by side.

Imagine the speed these little guys are turning as opposed to one crank spin. So these blades are pushing out so much solid, going thru so many channels; up to the head; across the crank; down to the oil light switch, the spring pressure off that connection is now pushed with a solid and overrides the spring, makes ground hang there pressurized in the switch is sitting off the contact; light goes offandango.

How much oil pressure is actually lost?

That's what I'm saying. Look at the race bike in full heat. The crank's high rpm speed; the oil lubing at any weight. And I think W stands for 'weather' so when it's hot out, 10w40 says 10 is the thin flow-hello-marketing says this does not thicken up to 40 if you look at water and will it change to a thicker substance or remain the same flow is water hot or cold, yes or no? That oil is going to expand and flow thin, but so will 5w30 thin out, but you have to show me the damage/wear at 5w.

Which goes right back to Brock watching that oil light come on, that hot, that high an rpm, that this, and that, but nothing, or Brock woulda killed the bike off he heard 'funny noises.'

For someone who references the manual like a bible, you sure are contradicting yourself.

You need to show me the quote where I contradict myself if I use straight 50w and half delo. I not only do not give a shit about the w, be it thin or thick flow; I know that pump is pushing so much pressure, even the spring has to be there to relieve the pressure made or it will push the seals right out, hello, you cannot compress a solid?

So [if] Brock blew up his bike on 0w, I contradicted myself that no oil that thin is going to survive in the engine no matter its at its cold/hot/cycled to death, I don't know how many times, but here it is ready for dyno or rider.

Cold starts is how fast did that oil get there being that thin as opposed to 50w? So mine should wear out sooner is watch the oil light speed is ready-set-start cranking! But with that millionth coating all dripped off when the morning comes, that one thin layer being there, or we'd have more down time repairing the scoring it went that dry? No way.

I know my layer was not wiped off, cleaned off, dry as a bone now start the bike each time, you see scoring now, yes? The book is all about WEATHER and the chart shows to thin out the oil the colder it is. But 10w is the thin constant, yes or no?

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I now know the ratio of bullshit vs fact to muddy the water. 80/20 does the trick perfectly.

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Race guys/gals think nothing of rebuilding an engine, actually look forward to it.

Me, it's something that I want to avoid, so I stick to the manufacturers recommendations which probably were targeted to users and use cases like mine.

Brock is putting his rep on that can of 0w as if it will cause damage to your bike, here, buy a case. Figure it out. I already have washed off my BS boots, will swallow a quart your bike blows up. You gotta see what Brock and I see about oil/engines/pressure/lube/weigh in the facts.

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I salute your experimenting and pushing the boundaries...

For me, a (mostly) stock bike with factory recommended maintenance is enough (modulo more frequent oil changes than recommended though)..

I use Amsoil 10w/30 synthetic

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My recommendation - avoid engineering by comparison and the resulting noise.

My dealer changed the oil and used his 10-40 out of a drum. I asked why they did that, and he said none of the mfgs. advise using synth oil in the sport bikes. They always put Honda GN oil in my Blackbird, too. When I asked why, they said "clutch slippage", but no one yet has reported that on the ZX-14R.

Brock says that the Kawi 10-30 is super oil; it is synthetic. I may just use that.

* Last updated by: Tallsomeone on 6/27/2015 @ 4:57 PM *

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FWIW, Triumph recommended full synthetic for my long gone 1050 Speed Triple.

I pay a little extra to use synthetic oil just so I can relax a little more about oil change intervals..
though I have no real idea if it's making a difference or not (I've never bothered to get any used oil analyzed).

I usually run Kawi 10w40 full synthetic. Kawi or Mobil 1 MC. I go 2000-2500 miles on a change

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