I just picked up a set of Pazzo levers for my 14. Is swapping these out a fairly simple procedure or are there some gotchas I should be prepared for. Thanks.

Lube/grease the lever's bolt shafts and passo holes upon assembly.
Study the clutch safety switch and front brake switch pins so you do not snap them off on assembly. More like line up the pin to the switch plate call it and plunger arms going into the lever. Push the arm in so the lever holes line up with the lever perches bolt hole.

Spin the front wheel and hit the brake with the new lever. Are the brakes dragging? No. Then all is well.
Do the brakes drag with the new lever? Yes. Then drill the aftermarket hole deeper so the arm is not loaded on release.

Ride the bike and hammer the throttle in any gear. Did the engine spin up? No. Then all is well.
Did the engine spin up? Yes. Then-ah you-ah pissed away lira on a field fix the factory should have addressed. Start drilling the recess hole in the lever so the arm is not loaded-holding open the clutch pack without a full arm release.

Basically that's the problem with the aftermarket pazzo is clutch slip. Grind the arm down and it costs more to repair than sacrificing the aftermarket and field fix it that way.

Thanks Hub!

Update: Got home from work and headed to the garage to install the Pazzos. Everything went smoothly. They look great. I got the shortys with the gold adjuster to match the other gold on the bike.

* Last updated by: Flyboy on 6/25/2019 @ 3:20 PM *

What Hub said is correct. I would add to that lubrication of the brass bushing. Take it out and lube it with a grease. Don't depend on spray lube. Take the Pazzos off regularly and lube all joints. This is especially important with the clutch lever which gets pulled full throw all the time.

I had a problem with my Pazzo clutch lever. I felt a click in it every time I pulled it full throw. I believe the bushing was not turning freely. It eventually froze with the hole turned in toward the MC and this kept my clutch slightly disengaged all the time. The clutch would slip under hard throttle. I put the stock lever back on and the problem disappeared. The bushing on the Pazzo was crusted with dirt and I freed it up with some WD-40. I plan to take it apart and clean and lube it and reuse it. The push pin hole looks pretty beat up.

Thanks Rook. I did follow some of your previous posts in regard to the issues you had. Everything with mine seemed to align ok. I cleaned and lubed everything with DC4 which is a silicone paste we use on certain aircraft applications. Will keep an eye on it though.

* Last updated by: Flyboy on 6/29/2019 @ 8:41 PM *

Interesting thing I just came across on Hayabusa.org is that there was a busa owner who had the same problem I did with CRG levers. He cut the Master cylinder push rod shorter and it fit perfectly. Drilling the brass bushing deeper was not an option. He drilled straight through and the push rod was still too long.