Anyone have a "unsmooth" clutch lever feel after removing the slave cylinder?It works fine-just feels like it's "catching"somehow when I let the lever out.In other words-the lever feels clickety kinda.I've bled the line at both ends several times-seems to have all the air out-the lever has plenty of feel to it-no feeling of softness or anything.I'm stumped on this one!Don't remember it doing this before.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/25/2010 @ 12:03 PM *

Hate to say it but sounds like you still have air in it. I finally purchased a Power Bleader.
Makes it so much quicker. Did remove you the piston? If so did you check the slave bore?
Piston could be sticking inside bore, good seal for piston in slave?

* Last updated by: LAB3 on 3/25/2010 @ 4:58 PM *

You removed the slave off the clutch cover you mean? Take a C-clamp, and without damaging either side of the slave, lay a rubber size fender washer on the piston side. You now eliminated the rod for the click. Now you see if the click is still there, as you pull the clutch lever in and that rubber bumper should be supple enough to compress the lever to the grip so you have full range.

Now you hear the safety switch at the lever is all you should hear as something clicking. Pull the clutch rod, see if it is in two pieces, or one piece is stuck; where one end is ball end, the other sheered off. That is the click is hear the two rods clicking loading up on each other?

There is no clicking at the slave in the C-clamp, right? Then look at the clutch system, starting with the push rod.

Push rod's okay.Checked that.Clickish sound is not like the brake click sound.This feels like it's right there in the lever mechanism-as if it's binding a minute bit,then letting go,clicking/binding(?) feel,then continuing on.Does it about 3 or 4 times when releasing the lever..Slave cylinder looks good inside-no noise from that place at all.

I wonder if the shaft on the switch that hits the lever is makeing the sound.

Nah-I got er done.Reinstalled my stock levers-dunno-something weird was going on with that clutch lever-weird.Put the stocker back on-just fine.Works perfect.Thanks for the help guys!Bled that sucker over 10 times-don't think I really needed to after all!!!Sometimes I'm soooo friggin dense!(ya-used the mityvac also-IT WAS WORKING JUST FINE AS WELL!!!!).Hub...both ends are flat.No ball end here.Clutch now working Bravovamisimo!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/25/2010 @ 9:34 PM *

Reinstalled my stock levers-

Well, that would have helped adding the aftermarket was part of the clicking. There is so much info to work off of and, well... Anyway, check out the aftermarket lever. Find some sort of wear-nick that kept the ticking happening. It's falling out of the pin [click] or short in the pin. The lever has so much arc. The rod has so much length. The slave pushes out so much. The Master has to push the full length in a fluid length = To break the plates apart.

If you do not throw that pin the full length, it's obvious the rod is too short to push the pressure plate away from the plates. I bet you stick a tiny ball bearing like from the tip of a Bic pen, jam it down the hole, the pin is back to throwing the rod back out to normal or at least close to a stock length so you do not slam it in gear as if the clutch lever is still out.

See, that one full throw goes so far. The rod could wear down = Short. OK, blue, thanks for that. Then the flat rubs up against a ball. That rod will spin with the pressure plate and it's almost in a, ball bearing setup, so the rod spins like a wheel turning, or it would burn up if it just jammed up against the slave, then against the pressure plate.
The click is overriding the full throw. Now the throw is = Shorter.
You can go back to that lever, modify it so the throw at that pin breaks the plates farther apart, pushes it longer, not = Shortest ~ Was the position that throw was. That is why the bike stalled going in gear.

I actually did think about adding a spacer at the slave-no need though...it was okay.Ya-I don't know WHAT was going on with that lever.Strange,that's for sure-and it looks okay-not worn or anything(though it COULD be and I'm not recognizing it).Like I said-I switched out to my stockers-working smooth as can be.I'm going out now on a limb here-guess it's not really important "how much ya know,or DON'T know".You know I said it kicked into gear-ya?Then stalled.Okay--get ready to fall off yer chair there laughing so friggin hard at the Idiot with the 14.Here goes.....The KICKSTAND WAS DOWN!!!!!That's why it friggin kept stallin!GEEEEZZZ-I'm such a dope!!!!!!It's been a LONG DAY with this lever,bleed,pump,disassemble,reinstall,bleed.Fuckin thing was workin fine all the time after I first bled the lines(but the lever action was messed up somehow).Coulda had er started and runnin this afternoon if I had ONLY realized the stand was down when I put it in gear!!!!!This should make yer day there!!!!(well,I did say I wern't no tech)Fuckin fool I am.Surprised I can even push the start button!I must say however in my humble defense....Messin with that slave and all,I COMPLTELY forgot that bad boy has that friggin switch on there.I've started my bike a thousand times-more-but never took off with the kickstand down(okay,one time-a LONGGGGGG time ago)..............glad I didn't break anything screwin around with all that stuff-and I DID get that plastic spacer in there correctly!WoHooooo!!!(which is why I FIRST did anything with it!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/26/2010 @ 12:42 AM *

I had a set of carbon levers and the tab for the pin to hit is Not square so the brake light did not work,pin for switch would hit and extend out in the air. sent them back. Same tab on clutch lever but never installed it. Look at the stop tabs on the levers and see if they look the same as OEM. I bet the switch pin is all the way out when the lever is installed and when you pull it in the tab is short or has a radius and is pushing sideways on the switch pin making the click noise.

Because, 20/20 Hindsight says so, blue. Between you and Rook, I'm learning a lot here.