Ok so I decided to with the KISS concept (keep it simple stupid) and go with the possible easiest fix and work my way through.....well as luck would have it, and maybe I'm a complete goon for not trying this first, but the "fix" could not have been simpler.

The Pazzo lever has 6 adjustable increments....I had mine on 1 which was closest to the bar......evidently on 1 the clutch is not fully engaged....not sure why this started or if maybe I just never noticed. But in any case moved lever to position 2....went around the block....butter.

Sitting in the north ga mountains now after a 70 mile ride this morning and it was smooth shifting all the way.....

Thank you all very much for your input.....

Safe riding....

Troy

Well, I could only go by another member [years ago] with the same brand lever. He returned to stock. The other member who mentioned to click it out some was more having some experience with it. You at the adjustment with a short lever throw was it? Then, I could see the throw is short and not at a farther extension of the rod moving out for the heat. It's all hindsight now; to move the short throw extended out farther to break the plates.

And since your bike has low miles, this is where if you kept up with the dailies, you noted a few oil cap removal photos and where is your [moveable] pressure plate under a clutch outer fork? So when you pull the clutch lever, watch the pressure plate move out and then back under the one fork(s) you keep an eye on one. Where in the release is it? Sticking out where it began, or just under the end of the fork? Is the pressure plate moving well under the end of the fork like the photos show? This would show wear if you first looked at the pressure plate move [where] in the landing? From there being new is the plate walks under the fork farther. Once it slips, I know where my clutch wears down to from a fresh rebuild/new/etc.

So, me bad for not thinking short levers, no mention of who cares where it's clicked, just mention it. I like the puzzle where you left out the hindsight of a short throw at the lever and I was trying to beat you to there. I was in that [years ago] mindset about the lever needing [work still] to be dropped down to a longer throw at position #1 so that lever is popping the cork way before its time; if position 1 becomes the hindsight.

Then, talk about a pit call we bring Mav to the [run withe big-boy] red carpet. See that clutch basket cook off, Mav? You've been chopped! Mav? I want you to master in clutch packing. I rather fight for the racing points than just take them away no struggle. And when I sign off...

YOu know how many of those old farts that ran down those top 16 at Pink's drop of the hands? The cockyness does not leave the ballsack is drop me trousers down, spin around and smack chew wit them. That's more a hand slap for a good job moving one bolt to a lever notch. And a faceplant for me not seeing it and looking at that shit design, the normal clutch growth, the hole depth, the this the that. Everything but moving a bolt off a cover... That much I knew.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one loses taking [your] trophies)

Thanks for the update. I think I had my Pazzo clutch lever set at about 2. I think it worked on 1 but as I might have mentioned, the master cylinder pin seemed to be pushed in a bit without even touching the lever. I was running around with the clutch partly disengaged all the time.

here's the thread to do a quick check of clutch wear.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=66E32CEA-9D21-C274-43C70B926CE4FACF

Glad you found it. Personally I hate aftermarket levers as they only add more failure points to your steed. Factory lever is adjustable so I left it at that. I race on the closest setting to the bar.