I installed a wideband O2 sensor with a a/f gauge in my ZX to diagnose a possible fuel problem (possibly running too rich.)
What A/F ratio should I be seeing on a completely stock 06 ZX?

I just got it in so I only idled it in my garage and after it warmed up for a few minutes and it was a solid 13.0 at idle. Got a nail in the tire, so probally won't take it for a ride till tomorrow.

13 sounds about right

worr, I've watched both a fat injector move at one warm-up interval and one with the correct injector made for it. The idles have different A/F ratios as you would expect. I've been trying to compile those cuts since you posted the thread. But the time takes me away from the computer once again. The video are my notes, so I don't get it wrong. If I recall, the bone stock '08 will idle at 16.5, then warm up to a 14.? ratio. I want to say 14.7, since it hovers close to the 15 number on the back side of it.

The fat injector setup did not have a choke/idle system. So, this was more I warm up the bike as I start and roll. In other words, I could let the bike sustain a fuel trim, monitor that A/F number, then toggle the fuel cutter on. That is when the fuel cutter swung to 13.1 or there about, meaning, I never let off of the gas or accel'd away.

Not only that, you can see the vacuum gauge's needle swap back and forth on the video I want to make for myself, really. The idle sounds cool, but the response was more crisp. Then I made a smoother idle setting with the 4-sync tubes, rather than the faster main slides being well sunk. What I did next wASS to blend all 4 bodies together. WOT a difference! Smoooooooooth. The crisp is lost, but this is well worth the reset before you begin the tuning from there.

In other words, that A/F meter is useless, you do not reset the bike first. Then again, you still do not have to go through all this. The bike is preset at the factory. You just need to sync the mains and that is close enough. But to go, 'smoothing'; you're going to need this if you want to mess with the, 'duty cycle' which sets the 'pulse width' and you know the rest on that end.

Hub, I'm a bit confused, the numbers you are mentioning as A/F ratio and then call it a vacuum gauge. Are you talking about engine vacuum or A/F ratio measured with a wideband sensor and controller/gauge?

What I meant was, I have two gauges I can video on my loop runs. One being the wide band, the other a vacuum gauge. On sustained throttle, the vacuum gauge will be in one position, the wide band in the matching position [wherever that is, meaning]. When I WOT the throttle, I can see that A/F metering. On lift, I can watch 3 variables kick in as far as soft vs. hard or digital vs. analog.

It gets pretty involved, but easy to understand once you connect the dots using both meters is what I more or less, needed this post to clear up why I mentioned both gauges. They are used as just reference points. Again, it gets frustrating that you want that hard set, but it limps you pretty much as Bad has found out, and that is more what my testing or having 13,000 miles of seat time keeps telling me, testing almost each time I go out on the bike.

I keep coming back wanting that hard set being on the ragged edge and [love that] scary twitchy bottom side. But the analog is the package, meaning, stay stock, no codes brings that bike to that peak HP setting. So far, we know the codes for the GPS are the locked 6 or the locked N with the green light registering as a code set, not some flashing (((FI))) on the dash. Gas bars flash as well as the water bars blink the same way. FSM does not mention what will happen if a code is set at the dash. You just have to know going in, a lot more than what the manual covers and come to a conclusion there is a code present if you see many codes flashing, then take watt direction to follow. Say, you forget to reconnect the tank wire connector, she blinks those 3 basic variables to look for. The one being, 'is the connector connected?" and there is your self answering code set. Tank bars no longer blink. Simple shit, right? Way too many variable for one thing. So, you go nuts on the net, apply some variable. It did not apply, but sure aims that way as try to chase that blink.

All I'm chasing is what would trigger a code so I can diagnose, repair, next bike, I saved 'time' on the clock for both you and me. You are working against time, 'is money.' That is why that bike evolved to watt it is. I rather diagnose a symptom rather than tune the bike. That is why I'm taking my time tuning. Sometimes I chase some air with 4-air screws; sometimes I chase 2 rods to sync, leave the screws alone. Sometimes I pull the air cleaner. See what happens just by lazy accident I'm finding out things different like the injectors of two Gen'Zx-IS.

Key here, worr, is to tune to the best pull, best smooth, best lag remover, best O/A performance you hook up that wide band is watch the needle swing to the best number and there it is. You listen to the buzz about, "I need to get to 12:? or 13:This Ratio> IS a chase in the dark <. You chase what snowflake wants is your bike's own setup. All that gauge tells you is it points you in the right direction, you do not need to pull plugs to see what or who went rich/lean, you need to look for soot...?

... Say, you had some fuel cutter on the bike. You can now watch what base is [stock], see how it runs in that setting. Then you feed fuel at it, till it falls on it's face it's lean, or you wait for something to happen and it happens too late, it's too rich say. That's all I see the wide band being used for. The vacuum gauge shows the many variables: Overall, pull/pulse of the balance/smoothing/pressure regulator. It is a video viewer on the idle being 9psi-by the book: Idle/Lift/WOT are your 14.7's for every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction.

2BAData! Take it for WOT?WATTit's worth. You know the source.

What A/F ratio should I be seeing on a completely stock 06 ZX?

I will relay this to you. There are subtle changes the factory does not discuss in the brochures, pass on updates to dealer level, or found in the factory service manuals.

When it comes to A/F ratios, we might be discussing each bike having a different map. So, when we see a 14 without change to the bore but an injector change means an ECU map change, we have to assume each 14 has a subtle improvement over the other.

Can you imagine that $50 map scheduling you have not been told this. I didn't say anything. You did not ear it from me. I will deny, deny, I cry for those ram tubes.