Need some help with some investigations to a problem with my 09zx14...
Symptoms:
Whilst riding under 3000rpm the bike has a misfire when I accelerate beyond that point there is no hesitation or misfire at all even under steady or hard load when the bike settles back into a cruise mode it comes back. It actually feels like like I have lost a spark plug plug as the engine note even changes to this weird droning missing noise.

I have some ideas but I wont put them up as it may cloud some of the awesome ideas I hope to get back to check out.

Please help and Merry FAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTT Christmas

Cheers,

Ben

I'd start with pulling the coil sticks and the plugs for inspection. See if the plugs look normal and check the primary and secondary winding resistance to spec values. make sure the spark is good before looking at a fuel problem next.

Also check all the connections and grounds to make sure they are clean and tight. You anywhere near the ocean side of Brisbane? Look for green terminal corrosion if you are.

Under 3k = engine note changes to a drone sound... mapping fallout?
Fuel = Not it, cleans up after 3k.
Plugs = Not it, cleans up past 3k.
With a temp gun, shoot what cylinder is cooler at the pipe if say you could sustain that misfire, pull over and test the temp. You'd change that one spark plug, test ride and see if it was a plug? But it cleans up after 3k and you'd think maybe not.
It almost sounds like a bad ECU. Only way to find out is to run another 14 ECU and test at that rpm.

These are the things I have done already:
Cleared map from PCIII and reinstalled Brocks Street map
Checked earths from PCIII
Pulled fuel pump out and cleaned strainer sock then reassembled as i first thought it may gave been fuel problem

Im going to check the plugs and sticks next hopefully just a faulty plug and its sorted. Im positive its electrical just need to determine the extent I hope its not a stick coil as they are expensive and if its ECU related thats another dive into the wallet.
Cruderudy I initially checked the basic earth stuff first time round and thought I had sovled it with that and a remap but went to ride to work and it was still there. When the bike just idling and you rev it it is fine it is only noticible while riding.
I wonder if removing the PCIII and go for ride is worth a try could be that ?

Anyhow it wont get looked at before new years as its holidays??

Fuel pump needs to fall on its face to be looked into, not when it runs fine up to redline say.
A spark stick would be out of spec on startup, not a certain rpm. A plug would run like crap at any rpm.
If you first mentioned a pig unit, it does not matter the map, but more say a grid block dropped out of the unit itself. So yes, first thing is remove the hot side of the pc. You remove ground only, hot still has a ground being hooked to the injector's ground so you still have a hot box running in the loop to throw off the 'no-pc-diagnoses.'

Are the plugs past 12070km, then change all. Twist the stick first before pulling it up or twist as you pull. As if reading in braille, the valve cover has a cast bump for the stick position. Feel the tab on the intake side of the cover, just a few mm from the spark plug hole. And you should hear a ratcheting sound as you push the stick back on the plug. That's the wire tab running over the threads at the top of the plug.

As far as spark sticks go, set the meter to 1k ohm:
1.2~1.6 ohm for primary
8.5~11.5 k-ohm for secondary

If I look at the 2 prongs of the spark stick facing me:
L= -
R=+
That's for the primary is prong to prong. Secondary is to keep the -ground there at the left prong, then +probe the spark plug end.

* Last updated by: Hub on 12/23/2016 @ 11:12 PM *

I will definitely hit them up when I get back after Christmas thanks Hub and check the sticks and plugs. The wife and I are going to Melbourne to then drive the Great Ocean Road down through to Adelaide.
I will let you guys know the outcomes of the tests .......

Have a merry Christmas and a safe one

Happy new year to all hope everyone has been safe and sound over the break. Just an update fir the bike it appears to be a dirty injector issue that has caused my head aches. I thought it would be worth putting a wynns fuel injecto cleaning product in the tank and give her a run down the highway. I used one full 325ml bottle in full tank, after letting it idle for a while I hopped on and it had already started to work basically all the mentioned symptoms went away. The bike is actually rideable now but I only managed to do maybe 30ks there was some very slight hesitation in the same re range as I stated before but I think it will clean up when I run this tank through the bike. I will ride it through the week to do that and get back to the forum with an update I really hope this just does clean the injectors and sorts it if it doesnt I will look at cleaning them with a kit or remove them and take them to a shop to do for me.
Chat soon with an update.

Cheers,

Ben

Story so far.....
Im halfway through the tank and symptoms have reduced to the point where the bike feels normal. I took it out today after work and still noticed that there was still some spluttering and hesitation in 2nd gear at the 2&1/2 to 3 k rev range no where like it was but still there im hoping a full tank with the wynns cleaner in will fix it. If it doesnt does anyone have any suggestions go try out.

Cheers,

Ben

Sounds like fuel. Electrically, the bike does not run better with a cleaner, meaning. Make sense? So since you are half a tank down from your last post. That's older gas going even more stale... thus, fuel related. Keep riding, keep injector cleaning until it's to the point of being as clean as it gets to; either removing the injectors and having them cleaned professionally, or buying new over the counter at the dealer.

Hey, just signed up to say I have this exact issue on my 06 Gen1, ran half a bottle of injector cleaner through and the problems disappeared, I'm about 2 tanks full of gas on now and they seem to have come back. I think its a fueling issue, maybe fuel filter is all clogged?

I've already changed plugs, filters and it recently went into the shop to have valve checked and throttle bodies synched. When I explained to the guy at Kawi he said cus the butterflies had been pulled it would stutter, but it was never like this before.

Really struggling with this one, no codes or anything, just want to get back to riding around without having to be 4krpm+ all the time lol.

Latest and greatest I pulled my injectors and got them professionally cleane and flowed one injector was down by 3cc from the others after a 20second flow test after the clening. It was about 6cc down before cleaning an all injectors picked up about 3 to 4cc across the board after cleaning. I was happy with this and so was the injector man so I re-installed everything bolted back and head off for a ride. All is sweet no hesitation no blips stutters or anything wow I'm impressed until I ride about another 20ks and its back aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh crap. So guys need the help whats the next plan of attack.

All new injectors?
New fuel pump?
Do I just change the plugs to rule it out?
Do I check the coil sticks?

This is starting to really drill my soul down please help.....

Turbosquid I wouldn't say its because of the flies being out as mine are still in

Could there be something in your fuel system before the injectors that is causing the injectors to clog? Maybe rust in the fuel tank?

It sure seems like the problem was cured temporarily by the injector cleaning.

If it ran normally at times before the injector cleaning, you may be chasing the wrong problem. If the problem happened consistently before the cleaning, I'd say you're on the right trail.

Hey, just signed up to say I have this exact issue on my 06 Gen1, ran half a bottle of injector cleaner through and the problems disappeared, I'm about 2 tanks full of gas on now and they seem to have come back. I think its a fueling issue, maybe fuel filter is all clogged?

The fuel filters on these bikes are known to clog sometimes. The filter is not meant to be changed, you change the whole fuel pump. There have been threads where people have succeeded in changing the filter only. There is a part number for a different bike that can be used to replace the ZX-14 filter. Do some searching and you'll find it on here.

I've seen people post about replacing the filter element in the fuel pumps of various bikes. Not sure how much the pumps are but I'm guess they're not cheap. How you get a replacement filter, I don't recall.

Just to back over what i have done and symptoms to date:

Bike first started stutter and hesitation before i last serviced the bike.
I did a full service oil, filters even pulled the fuel pump out from the tank as i thought that was the issue to my surge
I also checked all earthing connections from the PCIII and also re-mapped the Brocks street map onto it to ensure no issue there.
I also pulled the PCIII and re plugged the ECU back normally still has the stutter and hesitation.
I cleaned the fuel tank and stripped the pump and cleaned the fuel filter put it all back together still same hesitation and stutter at the 2-3k mark.
I then ran an injector cleaner throught the tank it made an immediate improvement but did not rectify it completely.
I was told to run a double strength solution through again and I did still did not fully get rid of it but helped.
Next i stripped the bike down pulled out the injectors and got them professionally cleaned.
Took it for a spin was all good until I did a few kilometres now Im here

How you get a replacement filter, I don't recall.

Believe it was some year of ZX-10 fuel filter.

No---believe it was a z-1000 filter. Have to read through the trail of links on my post below.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/4/2017 @ 7:35 AM *

Check out this. Links to several threads about fuel filters getting clogged and being changed on this thread.

There is a prefilter and an actual filter. You may have cleaned the prefilter, only?

 http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=DA5870E9-0EB1-1F1D-45E083385E9D06C2

Sounds like the problems I started having with my carbureted zx11 after I moved and was forced to use e10 gas.

I doubt the fuel filter is the problem as the bike runs perfectly upon higher RPM if it was a fuel blocking issue would it not be across the board and not just at the lower RPM 2-3k mark. I know the fuel pump is constant delivery pressure to the fuel rail and any fuel not injected is returned via the piping. So its telling me that the pump can deliver the required flow otherwise the bike would do the same thing across the entire rev range ??

ECU = Electrics:
1. I cleaned the injectors and it ran like normal.
2. I have to assume the ECU being cold or hot, no effect as was the injector clean did have an effect.
Sparksticks = Electrics:
3. I have to assume full power was achieved after the clean so not there as if out of spec.
4. I have to assume the clean rev to a higher rpm did not flutter at the plugs nor adding the additives.
Fuel pump:
5. I have to assume no clog if starts well, revs well, sans the injector cleaning showing it does.
Injectors = Fuel:
6. I have to assume ohm wise, the cc difference was more the dry fuel buildup at the pintle and holes.
7. I have to assume the injector cleaning was the only change that brought back the bike to normal performance.
8. I'm going to assume you've visited the same petrol station and that says 'quick drying hole closing' with some of the same crap going into the tank and causing this fuel cc drop at the injector holes.
9. I'm going to assume a change in stations might be a variable.
10. I can tell when I use the cleaner and within a tank full, the smoothness goes away if not shot with an ounce or 2. Keep using it with the other gas.

Conclusion... Fuel, not hard parts.

Our gas is such crap its seems like it goes bad in the station even before it goes in a vehicle. I put Stabil 360 into every vehicle I dont drive constantly

Ethanol starts to separate 30 days after exposure to air. I use an Ethanol stabilizer in everything but daily drivers. My 93 3000gt vr4 would start hesitating at lower rpm, I'd add fuel cleaner and it would run perfect for a couple hundred miles, then start hesitating again. Started adding stabilizer and it ran great for the whole tank. They didn't have stabilizer when I had the zx11. I cleaned the carbs about 3 times before i called it quits and sold it. Not saying it's your problem, but it sounds very familiar.

I'm not sold on the fuel situation, I had used two different fuel stations both being the same company but different locations (BP Fuels) and I only use their 98 octane premium fuel. I have never put any of that ethanol stuff in the bike but hey I'm willing to give it a try and drain the rest of the fuel out and reload and go again.

This is starting to get to me aaarrrgggghhhhhh HULK SMASH

i would avoid ethanol if you can.'98 octane premium fuel'...this is good.just for the heck of it,why not add some 110 octane in there on your next fill.it's cheap and safe.(octane booster).idk...certainly won't harm it.just for the heck of it.

only just picked up on this thread guys. Is injector cleaner something we should be putting in the fuel from time to time or only when we get this sort of trouble? Ive had my 14 much longer than previous bikes (cuz I love her so much!) so was wondering if its something I should be doing and when given the handbook doesn't touch on it.