Pit Bull Newfrontstand

Hopefully this will help with using any of the Pit Bull steering stem stands. I also own a Pit Bull Forklift with steering stem Converter Bar. With the converter bar attached, it works exactly the same.

DO FIRST: Position the bike on a rear stand. YOU CANNOT USE A FRONT STAND WITHOUT FIRST HAVING THE REAR SECURED FROM TIPPING OVER.

1. Have a #14 Pit Bull steering stem pin installed to the stand. This pin will function smoother and safer if it is installed to the stand so the top portion of the pin hooks forward a bit when the pin is inserted into the steering stem.

Note the axis of the top of the pin is tilted a few degrees off of the axis of the wider portion of the pin. The pin should be installed in the bar as shown above.

2. Place a towel or tape over the fender to prevent accidental scuffs. Fold the stand completely and with your thumb over the top of the pin (to prevent it from scraping), roll the stand up to the nose of the bike.

3. The pin will not fit directly over the top of the fender on the 14. The space between the nose and fender is too small. Open the stand just a little as you guide the pin to the side of the fender, under the nose and then over the top of the fender. Keep your thumb over the pin.

4. Your thumb is still on the pin. Once the pin is on top of the fender, you will need to find the steering pivot hole. If you can peek under the nose and the light is sufficient, you will see the steering pivot hole.

The horn and triple tree cover are removed from my bike to shave weight. This akso makes the steering stem much easier to find.

Yours may look like this.

5. Your hand is still supporting the steering stem pin and bar while the other hand grips the lifting handle.

You will need to open or close the stand a little to get the pin lined up with the steering pivot hole so keep one hand on the pin and the other on the lifting handle. Insert the pin to the steering stem hole and pull back gently on the lifting handle. Make sure the pin is inserted squarely before proceeding. In an alternating fashion, lift upward gently under the pin and slightly reduce tension on the lifting handle. This will jog the pin in the steering stem hole perfectly square. If the pin is in squarely, you will hear and feel a small metallic “tap”between the parts. Keep tension on the lifting handle so the pin cannot fall out of the steering stem hole. You may now let go of the bar under the nose.

6. Keeping tension on the lift handle, make sure the stand is centered on the front wheel and all parts of the stand will clear axles, brake calipers, etc, when you lift. It may be necessary to shift the stand one way or the other to center it. If so, reach back under the steering stem pin bar to support it (as in step 5) while you release tension on the lift handle and adjust positioning. Then, put tension back on the lift handle to keep the pin in the steering stem hole.

7. To raise the front wheel off the ground push down on the lift handle until it locks against the floor.

8. Lower the front FIRST before removing the rear stand. Support the bar under the nose while pulling the lift handle all the way up. Remove the pin from the hole and guide the pin to the side of the fender and out.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/18/2018 @ 10:11 AM *

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As usual, well done Rook! Can't wait to see if my PB stand will work in the steering stem hole.

Can't see why it would not. Let me know if you have further questions.

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I'm guessing you can't use this is you've lowered the front end almost 1.5"?

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Maybe remove fender then?I also inserted the bolt that 'locks' the pin in place first...then set the pin in there on top of it.That gave it about 1/3rd inch more height.(which allowed the stand 'bars' to clear the nose under there.I found it wouldn't clear that unless the pin was higher.But if it works for anyone else(with the pin in the slot and the bolt holding it)...I guess it does.That part about getting the pin turned the right way(as Rook showed)is critical.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/3/2015 @ 2:43 PM *

I'm guessing you can't use this is you've lowered the front end almost 1.5"?

If you lowered that much, you must have used straps which would pull the top fairing down even closer to the fender. I would say there is a good chance you could not use a steering stem stand with that setup. I guess lowering the front 3/4 inch or more might cause a problem no matter which method of lowering you use.

[/Maybe remove fender then?

That should work no matter what.

I also inserted the bolt that 'locks' the pin in place first...then set the pin in there on top of it.That gave it about 1/3rd inch more hieght.(which allowed the stand 'bars' to clear the nose under there.I found it wouldn't clear that unless the pin was higher.

There ya go, Doug. If all else fails, put the pin on top of the bolt. I think the bolt is a little skinny but there is a lot less pressure on the front stand than the rear. It should hold. Just make sure the pin can't fall out when you are lifting.

Another thing that could effect the height of the nose is the rear stand. I use a Pit Bull forward handle rear stand that has the forks raised about 3/8". I also use a swing arm pivot stand that is about an inch lower and it works fine. Grn used the forward handle rear stand so I don't know why he had issues fitting the steering stem pin under there and I do not. Maybe if the lifting forks on the rear stand are adjusted way up, that would tilt the nose down too far to fit the steering stem stand under it?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/4/2015 @ 8:58 PM *

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Possibly the redesigned front fairing?IDK.With the pin 'on top' of the bolts deal...the stand contacts the fairing underneath just a bit...not enough to crack anything or break the 'plate'(plastic black deal)...however,if the stand wasn't lined up with the wheel totally straight..it could crack the fairing under there.I also had to hammer the stand profile on the pin bar area where it connects to the U shaped stand part.Flattened it out some...it's still VERY VERY close.Having the rear swingarm stand shouldn't affect the distance between the pin flange and stem hole(when inserted).That's determined by the pin.That's why I did it the way I did...to allow more clearance between that area.

One note...it could be the position of the pin(that small angle that was shown)I didn't try it with the angle going back.That would change the clearance at the nose...maybe just enough?I'll try it next time.

One question here...anyone having trouble with their browsers loading in?Both my Firefox and Google are definitely NOT working right.Websites loading EXTREMELY choppy and slow.Including this one.

Well...whatever it was...it seems fine now

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/3/2015 @ 5:10 PM *

everythings ok here.

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Yeah...I don't know what was going on.It's good now.

that's cool.

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Rook no straps, just fork tubes raised through the clamps. Maybe I misunderstood something you said but lowering the front end (no matter which method you use) has to reduce the space between the fender and upper fairing.

But great thread like all of yours.

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lowering the front end (no matter which method you use) has to reduce the space between the fender and upper fairing.

oops. My mistake. I will go back and edit.

WOW an inch and a half!? I recall reading an old tutorial about lowering the front by raising the forks and I believe that guy was not willing to raise them more than 3/4". Any problems bumping the fender under the top fairing on the street?

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I went with a 1 inch drop on my 07...it was definitely very close to hitting when they compressed.Tightened up the preload...had to.I think it hit one time...4"travel(thereabouts)on the stock settings.Lower that frame...gonna lose a bit on the travel(Hitting I mean).

If I hit a very square edge bump hard it will touch a little. Hasn't left any marks (and I'm very anal about that stuff) that didn't wipe right off. I know where they all are on my way to work and I go over them gently.

ONe of the changes from the 1st gen to the 14Rs is the straight section on the fork is longer than on the older versions. I am right at the edge of the taper. On my 2012 I was about 30mm and it never hit but that is all it took to level it out with the extended swing arm. This one is at 37mm dropped.

Anyway sorry to derail your thread Rook.

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It's important to know what works and doesn't.A guy doesn't want to find out by cracking a fender...I don't anyway.Thanks all for the inputs on this.

No way can you raise Ohlins forks more than 1/4". Maybe only an eighth. Thanks for info TUG.

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done. IDKn if Pit Bull makes the forklift stand with steering stem converter anymore but once you put the converter bar on it, that works the same way as the Newfrontstand. I have both and both are very solid and stable. I'm sure all of the Pit Bull steering stem stands work the same way. I doubt I will ever have call to replace any of my Pit Bull stands but the newer models seem to have the detachable handle which would be very nice. It's probably pretty easy to achieve the same result with an older stand if you cut off the handle and weld in an adapter and locking pin.

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