New to the site...great information... What is the general opinion on migrating away from the factory coolant and using Prestone, Peak..or others. Thanks in advance for the input.

As long as your choice is aluminum-safe, it should work OK. I recently drained my catch tank and filled it with a bottle of Water Wetter, something I tried on a previous bike before I changed out the coolant to Engine Ice. There was an appreciable drop in operating temps before, so I expect the same again.

Yes, I'm sold on Engine Ice, and will continue to use it in my 2012 ZG1400-ABS (aka C14).

engine ice here to runs 2 bars cooler

make sure it ois for aluminum engines. Kawi is $11/bottle. Can't remember if that is enough to fill the wholel system. I don't think it is but 2 bottles would def do it. It will last 2 years easily. Even if you change every year no reason to go with something that might be unsafe. I stuck with Kawi coolant.

Engine Ice FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the feedback....I will go with Engine Ice. Thanks again.

I use Engine Ice in my bikes and the green Honda stuff for everybody else.

For aluminium cooling systems and engines I use a product from Europe made specifically for aluminum systems. The coolant is made by BASF and sold under the trade name of Glysantin. It is simply unsurpassed for corrosion resistance in aluminum alloy engines. You change it once with proper flushing and you'll never have a corrosion problem with the metals or a deteriorated hose.. EVER!

The product is sold as Glysantin G30 in most of the world and sold through VW/Audi dealers in North America as VW G12++. It's a organic acid technology product and uses organic inhibitors. The VW/Audi standard is TL-744-D/F so any brand that meets this norm is great. The VW product sold in Nord America is produced by Ashland Chemical (Valvoline) under license from BASF. They sell this product only through VWoA sources (VW,Audi,Porsche,Lamborghini,Bentley dealerships)

Been using Engine Ice... BUT... Once I use up the case I have, I'm gonna switch to Prestone LowTox.

It is propylene glycol based, like Engine Ice, but not prediluted and a lot less money.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 1/10/2012 @ 3:00 PM *

Does anyone know what the freezing point of Engine Ice is?

Engine ice will protect down to -26 degrees Fahrenheit

CanTour, it gets into the zero (0) range and a bit below during our winters here in Western Maryland. Granted, not aa low as some parts of the country, but cold enough.

I've never had a problem. In fact, two winters ago it was especially cold, and I had about 1/4 inch of Engine Ice left in the clear plastic bottle it comes in. Just to test, I sat that on my workbench and left it all winter. It never even changed viscosity.

Unless your winters hit -26F, I don't think you have to worry about it.

Dog, when you add in the cost of distilled water (you do use distilled water, right?) and the inconvenience of having to rebottle and handle three bottles, are you sure its a less expensive solution?

Probably exactly the same result, though.

Dog, when you add in the cost of distilled water (you do use distilled water, right?) and the inconvenience of having to rebottle and handle three bottles, are you sure its a less expensive solution?

I typically use R/O... since I have an R/O system... but:

LowTox (gallon) is $17 at O'Reilly's
Distilled water (gallon) is $1 at most grocery stores

Engine Ice is actually prediluted with deionized water, which is harder to come by and about $10 a gallon.

So $20-$30 for 2 gallons of LowTox vs $80-$100 for the same amount of Engine Ice.

Thanks for that Cooter. It does get that cold where I am in Canada, but on rare occasions. And the garage is always a few degrees warmer.

No problem

Can anyone tell me why propylene glycol based Engine Ice coolant is better than any other propylene glycol based type?

That is, I read the anecdotal info, where folks using it appear to be running "cooler" based on number of bars showing on the temperature gauge.

So, why does it work better? I'm not questioning that it does (or does not), I'm just wondering if anyone knows why it works better than, say, Prestone Green (or, Lo Tox for that matter)?

(Ooooo, an oil-like thread. Here we Go!)

Probably it allows heat from inside to be carried away quicker causing an overall drop in temps as it circulates.The cooler the motor,the more effective the Engine Ice becomes.Kind of a snowball effect?Whereas a typical coolant has a particular range of maximum heat transfer and kinda stays there.Dual fans like on the 14R really help cool things down however.They're VERY efficient.

Never used one of those so I can't say for sure if oneis any better than the next at keeping the temp down. However, you might want to make sure that any of these you use is made for aluminum engines. Not all of the regular coolants are so it's possible not all propylene glycol coolants are either.

We would need to research the thermal conductivity and capacity of the pertinent molecules. If there is a disparity of these values between ethylene glycol and propylene glycol then there should be a measurable advantage.

Brain food... no timeslips required.

^yeah,that's what I meant;)

Not all of the regular coolants are so it's possible not all propylene glycol coolants are either.

Is there an ASE standard that I can "bump" it against, to determine if it is qualified for use in aluminium block engines?

FWIW, I'm leaning to try the Prestone Lo Tox stuff. Same great taste, lo fat!

Grn has a valuable point. I've got twin fans, and they keep the heat down, even in summer, in Tucson. I usually see 205-210 on the temp gauge after a few minutes, when sitting in traffic. Pretty much never budges above that.

That's valuable to me, because this Engine Ice stuff is *very* expensive. If'n I dont need it, then why buy it?

But, I can get the cheaper Prestone stuff, save some dough, and get laid more (my wife likes it when I'm thinkin' green :)

There may also be a technical advantage to the Prestone stuff, too. Their site publishes a -76 to +266 deg F when mixed 2:1. I think that's pretty good boil-over protection for the twin-fan crowd.

Is there an ASE standard that I can "bump" it against, to determine if it is qualified for use in aluminium block engines?

Good question. I'd email the manufacturer. I just use plain old Kawasaki coolant cut 50% with distilled water so no question in this camp. The stuff stays in there a long time so I don't want to do any guesswork about safety. I wouldn't even consider using Something like Peak or Prestone unless the bottle said "for aluminum engines."

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/16/2015 @ 9:16 PM *

Anyone try Evans coolant ? Its waterless :

Benefits Over Water-Based Coolants
Eliminates Overheating
Evans Waterless Coolants have a boiling point above 375°F and will not vaporize, thus eliminating overheating, boil-over and after-boil.
Reduces Pressure
Evans Waterless Coolants generate very low vapor pressures reducing strain on engine cooling system components.
Prevents Corrosion
Evans Waterless Coolants contain no oxygen effectively eliminating corrosion.
Increases BHP
Evans Waterless Coolants eliminate pre-ignition and detonation caused by overheating - thus improving combustion efficiency and delivering more power.
Stops Erosion
Evans Waterless Coolants prevent cavitation and eliminate liner and cooling pump erosion.
Freeze Protection
Evans Waterless Coolants freeze below -40ºF