I have just returned home from Speed Week 2018 on the Bonneville salt flats. The bike I tune set a record at 230 MPH for it's class. After that the owner had a friend that wanted to get his licence to race his own bike next year. The engine is 06 ZX14

I was happy with the way it ran so I left the tuneup alone for him to make his runs. He made licencing runs all to the 3 mile mark. After he received his licence he made a deal with the owner to enter into a different class and make a record attempt. His first run was a 4 mile run that qualified for a record attempt, But,,,, well before the 4 mile mark the engine shut off (definitely ignition). He clutched it and costed across the line. After he stopped the engine fire right up. We looked everything over and found no problems. Remember the 3 mile runs we made had no problem at all.

On the record run the engine shut off at about the same place and he pulled the clutch in and coasted across the line again. He was lucky enough to set the record. But at at the end of the track the engine would not start. A hour or so later it started right up. My question for the Kawasaki techs here is. Is there something built into the ECU that would shut off the ignition let's say if the engine reaches a certain temperature? The engine is a full race engine with a flashed ECU good for 12,250 RPM. It was not on the rev limiter, it just simply shut off. Id like to hear some thoughts. Thanks JC

Congrats on the record run, and ouch on the dead over the line scenario.

How about a key on, kill off so no pump is running, simultaneously hold down Mode and Trip buttons on the dash pod and wait. What code was saved if any? Now let go of the buttons. That number would show who in the chain is tied in? Say cam sensor throws a code but it's tied in with the crank sensor. I'm sure maybe one more makes 3, if you catch my drift? So even though it may spit a cam code, it might be the crank's sensor instead. Beware of the goose chase in other words.

well before the 4 mile mark the engine shut off (definitely ignition). He clutched it and costed across the line. After he stopped the engine fire right up.

See if you are following my train of thought on this on. On this run, we are looking at a cooler running (less time pushing the resistance building engine heat) engine I would imagine. So heat is out of the equation because it would light right back up.

But at at the end of the track the engine would not start. A hour or so later it started right up

Whereas this run made a little more heat say but still cut out. I'm going to rule out heat at the moment. If say the code number is the spark stick from 51 thru 54, it just said it didn't see a good known signal entering input. So this is more or less a phantom code. The one that's tide in with the sparkstick is ________ fill in the blank? Say I'm not as sure as the cam/crank scenario. So say the water temp sensor would do what? Sets a digital formula to read off of. This still stays running if the water temp fails. One starts right up, the other time it took an hour?

The question is; have the gear position sensor wires been compromised like an aftermarket part is tied in with the connectors? And if so, is there some accessory gear position box somewhere near the dash pod area? Or if say you can read the stock gear position window and is there an N showing when you put it in 1st gear lets say and the green light goes off? Or how about the number 6 in the gear window and the bike is in neutral with the green light on? This might be something to look at or rule out all together.

Here's what little I know about the processor. If we have the bike stop in said scenarios, we'd want to save the volatile RAM (random access memory) that is ready to read with key still on. We want to read the code set, so we hold down the M and T buttons and wait for the code to popup. If we turn the engine off, the RAM is dumped to ground. However, it is saved in the ECU, but (possibly) gone at the dash. So next time--wink-wink.

Here's another example. If say I pop off a throttle position sensor's connector, turn the key on, the dash is going to popup a code or say you can't read the dash until you hold down both M&T buttons to see the code appear. I'm trying to recall so it may do something else than what I remember. Say the key is still on, the dash blinks or the screen has changed. Now, plug the sensor's connector back on with key still on. The blink goes away, the code clears, it now recognizes the correct input value and is back to a normal screen.

Sticking with the same example, how about we turn the key off knowing the code. We reinstall the tps connector. We turn the key back on. There are no blinks or change at the dash display. The code is erased, we are back to zero. In binary speak that is. Say as the bike runs the ECU sees a good known input value of say 1011 in binary speak. So that's analog input without codes being set. But now the ECU wants to know who is not sending in signal. If no signal sent, the bike will code as if you disconnected the connector or wire out of the sensor. So with key turned back on, the volatile is wiped clean. ECU knows where the bike is at this moment. Not running. That says no codes, all systems go, the ECU is ready for new input from the RAM. So the the numbers now read: 0000 the bike starts at 0 (zero).

So when you turned the key off and back on, you might find me saying, ah, excuse me, sir, but 0000 started at zero the first time and 0000 every time the key is cycled = Clears The RAM. I know. What's wrong with the good old carb I have to go thru this to tune the thing. The ride stops here. Without the code it's a chase. And I don't know where to start? And if no code with the key-on-test...????

This is going to be off the wall I know, but say I don't want to rule out my "Current 20/20 Hindsight" variable. Check the "Joint Connectors." I am more focused on the condition of that ground section for group connection deterioration. This is located at the right side front nose area. From the headlight main harness, there is an off on its own wire harness. It has a finger length of tape wrapped around this little joint box. It should be easy to find dangling out of its own wrapped tape from the main harness. If you can't see the black-yellow trace wire, pull the tape away for the box area. You're just looking to see if any heat is beginning to bleed more off the volt/reg spiking to ground. It has to be cooked some for it to cut the engine out. And I mean it has to be BBQ'd some. If it looks brand new and not all bubbled at the plastic, covering the copper wire, then goose chase it was. Start looking at known trouble points if say the v/r is giving out AC. It's going to fllow the shortest path. And that's the ground wire out of the v/r. It's found under the seat on the right seat rail. Those wires should look clean and uncooked. Those do not ground but send the path, right? Unless the green electro got to the pins.

More goose chasing. 2018-2006 = 12 years of electrolysis at the connector pins. Theory: "Magnetism ~ You cannot separate the heat from the chemical reaction." If I think resistance and something has to push thru the green stuff on the pins? If I just pull the connectors off and on a few times, I breakup the electo, scratch a new path, chase or question that variable away... and that's if no code or not in that environment????

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Thanks, so I had him look at the dash, There is a button, Mode and a button Reset. I told him to press and hold both of them simultaneously with the key on kill on ( no fuel pump ). The screen said FI error.

It has a upgraded fuel pump, #6 fuel line, 45 PSI fuel pressure and the injectors had been cleaned before the race. What do you make of the FI error?

P.S. let me make one thing clear, I am by no means a Kawasaki tech or any other tech. I simply am a hired gun that tunes a engine with a data recorder, powercommand and a few wrenches.

I forgot how to retrieve, so it might go something like this:
Both depressed = FI error is displayed. Release buttons, depress Mode key once. What's the number?
Or Both depressed = FI error is displayed. Release buttons, depress Trip key once. What's the number?
OR Both depressed = FI error is displayed. Release buttons, depress both at the same time again. What's the number? But I doubt the double. I'll try mode first. Then if the number does popup, I'd press and release mode again so it might flip to a second code, and so on. So write down each number if you can cycle what button cycles to the code number.

I can't say for sure, but I opened my big mouth years ago. I found a loophole to the dash display. I would hack the bike's telemetry and the dash would go to a new [unhelpful] display panel layout. But when I might have doubled the buttons once I saw the FI, I did it again and the screen returned to normal. Can't pinpoint to recall the sequence. Next year you couldn't do that and not too much changed on the first 2 model years short of subtle changes. But this one closed the door on the hack, dash wise. So again, that might not help as it goes right back to the default dash and shows no code.

Code wise, it's a saved code we are looking at. Now, it might be the coded [sensor] itself and lucky you. If it's back to what I said about 3 intertwined sensors, then no joy for now. It may not be a hard code. The phantom code is saved per say. The physical code is not in some some section of the dash and is blinking dash parameters like the fuel bar column blinks? That's injector/fuel pump say. How about the water temp bar? That's your heat sink factor as getting overcooked, but I doubt it. How about a locked gear position window display? Is there a 6 or N showing it and is locked on that number/letter no matter what gear you use? Do we have a perfectly operating gear window that displays each gear number you're in? Then no [hard] code present.

What do you make of the FI error?

There was/is one say for now. We need that number to move forward.
Any dash parameters like bars cycling on and off says code.
Any LED's or bulbs that stay on, these could be in or outside the dash display screen. Those solid lights too will remain on at the outside pod and those light displays.
Any number/letter in the gear select window is a hard code as are bulbs remaining on, flashes at the dash.
If nothing out of the ordinary or say you are now somewhat keen as how to read the pod lights and display for certain codes that may be present.

Where are we with the battery posts? Remember, magnetism kitty litters the battery cable connections. We want to address those with a straight razor and scrape new lead at the battery posts and copper cable points. That can be the start of contact [dropout] integrity... no start even with a good battery. Ask me how I know? Still, the ECU does not know if the posts have the chemRE peppered on the posts. It's a sensor calling the shot here.

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Press "reset" and "mode" together.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/28/2018 @ 5:47 AM *

Hub, He will try this today.
"Both depressed = FI error is displayed. Release buttons, depress Mode key once. What's the number?
Or Both depressed = FI error is displayed. Release buttons, depress Trip key once. What's the number?

Then if the number does popup, I'd press and release mode again so it might flip to a second code, and so on. So write down each number if you can cycle what button cycles to the code number."

I would do it but I'm 2000 miles from the race shop.

Here is what he got. " Error code # 13 air intake sensor. I checked the wire harness at the base of the air box and there was a bare wire where the wire plug goes into the sensor, wire encrusted with silicone,salt and who knows what else. "

Say the wire was pulled along with the clip connector. So if the head was removed for porting or a fresh valve lap/cut/etc., the IAP connector has to be removed to get to the service door(s) and remove that clip first. Then let's say the pull brought the wire exposed to the salt and both pins are touched via salt chunk = "Signal out of range."

This now spits the code is my guess. Ta is the formula for code 13. Say you were on the right track about temp. Only it was the air temp (Ta). And if you read the code intro, I might be wrong about this, but it says in the paraphrase, 'the ECU sets a safety action so as to save the engine from damage.' Where I might be wrong is to ask, did the ECU cut the engine off to save it? Did the bike reach some sort of threshold mph and the code did WATT?

This is where the 3 variables can only be are:
1. Connector not connected... Well, the IAP was connected. This is not it.
2. Wire out of connector... Again, the owner is stating bare wire being pulled back or coming out of the pinched female pin end, who knows, and say not a wire out of the connector. Not it here either.
3. Short to ground or signal out of range... There is no blown fuse so no short. Salt contacts both female ends and send the resistance out of spec. Those resistance induced numbers being sent is the cause for a code? And if you cleaned the salt off the two pins, does the code go away? Only a douche knows for sure.

Here's where Amazing Goop Glue comes in. My bike, I would dip the IAP connector in a solution of vinegar and baking soda. Fizzing subsides, I now clean it. Here is where I cut down a plastic drinking bottle. Have the bottom of the bottle to be deep enough to submerge the connector in the liquid. Then wash with water and let dry. I'd make sure the bare wire was not hitting the other pin, has integrity and not repair it. Why? I'd let the glue separate and hold it in place. I'd then close the back of the connector and plastic wire cover with glue as well. Then finish off with the glue closing the back end of every connector clip. The glue is so workable, you can peel it off later. But for now, The farklefukfarkle if I'd show up with exposed connector back ends so the salt peter to do its think ka bout it. Tell him to buy a tubeglue and get busy.

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... and there was a bare wire where the wire plug goes into the sensor, wire encrusted with silicone,salt and who knows what else. "

I reread it. So say it was 2 in the variable. No wait. Say it was shoved back up and hit the other pin? He can now buy or use a powerful magnifier or jeweler's loop and study how to remove the pin. You need spring steel almost and thin enough to raise the locking tab and out she goes. Solder the wire and forgo trying to pull the collapsed bands that will crack when you pull it up and bring it back down so you lost more pin breaking it off. Solder it up and the pin goes right back in with a little tab bend again.

So who knows if the salt or the bare wire touched the other pin? At least you found it.

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wire encrusted with silicone,salt and who knows what else. "

Squirrel jism... horny little bastards get into everything.

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I guess the thing that I can't get past is that we made 3 runs to the 3 mile mark, 217 MPH (71 seconds on the gas), 227 MPH (66 seconds on the gas) , 232 MPH (65 seconds on the gas). No problem at all. When rider #2 attempts a 4 mile run it cuts out about the same place short of the 4 mile mark on both runs. I can't buy the bad wire theory yet. Seeing that sensor is heat related I have to think it is a good error. Will this error shut the engine off like it did on those 2 runs? If so then the air box needs work to keep intake air temp down for the longer duration of the run. I will try to get a couple of pics of the air box/intake and sensor location.

I can't buy the bad wire theory yet. Seeing that sensor is heat related I have to think it is a good error.

Error wise, the theory is a flip or a flop. Theory wise, the processor makes two moves, meaning, a 1=(on) or 0=(off). The processor makes two moves. It is either on or it is off. The ECU sends a code or does not send a code. The theory is:
1. Wire out of connector. Is it or not? Wire showing copper strands and is not dangling or is tight to the pull at the male/female clip, we rule out wire out of connector. Wire in connector = 1. Wire out of connector = 0.
2. Connector not connected. It's obvious it's connected. So no code if the first variable does not apply.
3. Short to ground/signal out of range. No fuse, so there is a voltage frequency that has a balance from sensor to ECU. Once the range is out of this balance, the ECU drops the sensor's input if out of range, or automatically flops to the formula 30C ~ 100C temp values [when 1 and/or 2 dropout] while the ECU keeps the engine running in safe mode.

30C = 86F
100c = 212F boiling point of air?

I think the code has you covered. Clear the code so it won't flip the flop and then take the run again. Right now the code is set. The wires can touch inside the connector and it's still says 'sig out of range' so it codes to Ta(temp air). Now that you have the code, the next is to clear the code. Then take a run at it. With that variable in play, it's a probability. Can't be loose battery cables because it cuts out at the same distance. Can't be ground because it starts back up, can exceed 200mph, etc. Only thing left is a code blip in the hard set. Because, if say you walk up the bike right now and the code is still present, then it's set in the hard failure of 1 of 3 variables.

If so then the air box needs work to keep intake air temp down for the longer duration of the run

It's not the air box design. Think about it. You just insulted the engineers building the world's fastest production bike.

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World's fastest NA (normally aspirated)

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It's by no means a stock air box. You can see the intake behind the driver. And then you see the air box that is behind it.

Still, there is plenty of air velocity in the air box so as not it stagnate and build heat, yes? I doubt outside temp will be much of a change if you plugged it out and not in. Dry ice is cheating, yes?

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I agree with what you say. The thing is there is no way to test it until next year on the salt. It really needs to be able to run to the 4 mile if he wants to actually run the engine up to its full potential. Because of the wheel base no Dyno shop will mess with it. I thank you for all of your input. JC