Some pictures to make it clearer. I put the spring/plastic pieces back, is this correct ?

On the opposite side is the sub sensor, im guessing for the grey one

And i have the correct tool to remove this, this is what it looks like inside.

Now. What do i do ? :)

If it is convenient, please feel free to add me on skype hollow2263 or msn messenger marcus_jungberg@hotmail.com

Thanks.

* Last updated by: SweKingsHollow on 5/8/2010 @ 5:07 AM *

here is a youtube clip of the sound and parts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZ1AjOZHQAM

* Last updated by: SweKingsHollow on 5/8/2010 @ 5:23 AM *

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZ1AjOZHQAM < Test.

I'll try to gather parts for a video and watch what you basically have to do. Like I said, everything looks good. Now you do not have to remove the tank. Your plastic piece and spring look intact. So, all you have to do is reach over the tank, move the shaft to load the sub's slot. Then, the o-ring hangs up, is to rock the sensor very little to make the shaft's male end slot, go into the sensor's female slot. If the sensor pops back in the throttle body's hole and homes itself, you now turn the key on, hold the sensor somewhere at the same angle [almost] to the main throttle sensor.

Run the screw in so you can cinch it down, but the slot is movable. Watch the dash so when the FI is gone, the dash will reappear as normal; you on the minute swing in the slot positioning. Tighten the torx screw to spec. Turn the key off| /Turn the key on. Is the FI still there? NO? Then clear a runway, you are good throttle [robust] a test ride.

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/8/2010 @ 2:05 PM *

Okey Hub., thanks for the answer! Been patiently hoping for an answer all day :) As i said im a novice in mechanics and not the best in english so im still struggling to understand all the instructions. A video would be the greatest! Could probably be useful to someone else in my position too!

When you talk about "the shaft", you are refereing to the shaft inside the throttlebodies that the flies were screwed on too right? And what is the "sub's slot" ?

Sorry mate i know you are trying your best and trust me i am too. I am very greatful for your help but i still dont understand what needs to be done really. Pictures/video would be of the biggest help, if that cant happen. Maybe some realtime help through skype/msn would fix the deal! Anyway, thanks again.

When you talk about "the shaft", you are referring to the shaft inside the throttlebodies that the flies were screwed on too right? And what is the "sub's slot"?

You know the shaft can't move any farther than the left side throw, stopping the plates from hitting the main plates. You can feel [carefully] the range of the sensor's spring action. So, now you wind the spring up as you turn the sensor back onto the throttle body. See the torx bit with the hole in the hex where the screw anti-tamper screw is? You go back to that range where you think it's close. And just watch the dash. If you want to see the dash de-code itself, I have a video that shows it.

Yes hub, à video sure would be sweet! Big thanks

I tried a video, but could not shut off the sub sensor, not being close, but more holding both parts in the air without a reference to the throttle body. We still can ride this bike without the buzzing actuator. So, on the right side, front forward, there is a steel clip bolted to the t-body that holds the actuator connectors there. Just push the connector clip down, push the actuator connector off and this shuts down the gear ratcheting waiting for a signal to stop.

This shuts off the power to the actuator motor. The other sensor on the far right side, sitting along side the main sensor, does not need to be removed or unplugged. Now, if we have an early model 14, turn the key on only. Press down both the mode and trip buttons on the dash> Together. Hold those down till you see the codes blink. Once you see that happen, you press both modes once more quick. Any luck, this should bring you to the main dash as if everything is normal.

Now, if that works, you will have to double touch both buttons each time you turn the key on before you start the bike. A little inconvenience till winter comes so you can repair that later. Say, that double button trick does not work on the '07? Then you have that FI looking at you without the other dash readings. All you'll see is the gas and water temp bars. That's all you really need anyway.

Let me find some old video to compile. See if some of that might help out. I'm not worried about it since I am at the same point you are with the bike. I just came back from a run, threw the gps codes seeing if the fuel trim would change on a sustain throttle? No change. So don't worry cruising around city traffic or as fast as you want to go. Mine runs better without a piggy than trying to dial it in with one.

Hub, with your help i managed to fix it, and boi that was easy! My thoughts were jsut thinking way to complicated in the first place but reading your first posts over made me realise what had to be done, and now it seems so obvious. FI message gone and baby is up and running!

Big thanks for putting down your time on what to you must be a very simple problem.

Give me your adress and ill send you some beers ;) cheers

My thoughts were just thinking way to complicated in the first place but reading your first posts over made me realize what had to be done

Nailed IT!

Hello guys i am new to this site.I have a candy lime green 2000 zx 12 and just purchased the 2009 zx 14 candy lime green.I will be pulling my flies out this weekend is there a big change in performance?

Yeah, there's a big performance difference, you lose a flat spot, but be careful on a cold start acceleration pull off, there's a power surge in the throttle roll. That's one of the reasons the secondary flies were put in there.

Bought my 2006 14 a month ago. Pulled the flies yesterday. Thanks for all the help and advice, no issues at all after following all the instructions. FLIES OUT FN RULE!!!!!!

Enjoy your new found bottom end

Any extra steps if I remove the flies from a what appears to be a california emissions model 2006/7 ZX14? I've got one with the dual color coded rubber lines coming off the back of the fuel tank.

Read another thread that I believe addressed additional steps, any clarification would be helpful,

Drew

I've got one with the dual color coded rubber lines coming off the back of the fuel tank.

I am going to reach out here and say No. You do not have to remove the gas lines from the fuel pump if you don't want to. Just support the tank. Flies will be the same. Go for it.

Just wanted to throw in a thanks to all of you that contributed to this thread. Took mine out this weekend - followed the advice on this forum, smooth as butter. Thanks!

As I said in a previous post, with the flies out and the engine warm, the acceleration is deceiving. When the bike is cold be very careful accelerating off the line with the throttle until it is warmed up. That's the reason the flies are there, because you can get a chunky surge of power that could put you into a compromising position if you are not aware of it,

Jesse

Hi all. Want to remove the flies on my 07 zx14. But is a power commander necasery?will any damage occur whithout it runing all the time?

A couple of points if I may as I just removed my flies today.
Certainly not trying to be smart but I had zero issue removing the screws. No head stripping or rounding issues at all.
I put this down to two things.
The guys on this forum explaining exactly how to do it, and patience.
I went to buy a new good quality #2 phillips head screwdriver before I started. It looked way too big so I bought a #1 as well. When I inserted the #1 in the screws it seemed a touch loose.
The #2 was perfect.
So #2 it was. Always listen to experienced people...
And secondly I used a really hot soldering iron and stood there with the iron on each of the 8 screw heads for a full 5 minutes each timed with my phone. It did nothing good for my back but when the 8th screw loosened with no issue it was worth every second. I also gave the screwdiver a couple of good taps with a hammer for each screw to seat into the head before trying to loosen. This seemed a good thing also.
There was one screw that didn't give first try. I didn't force it and gave it 5 minutes more with the soldering iron and bingo...
I really do think that really heating the screw is the secret. Don't rush this step...

I Just got a 2009 Candy Kawi Green :) Is removing the Flies Relevant on this generation 2? i have a pc5, BMC filtern and a full muzzy m10/ m14.... feedback please

adub, Rook answered this at the top of this thread, here is what he had to say:

RE: Flies Removal-probs
04/01/09 9:16 PM
Romans wrote: Rook did you strip a screw ?
No...
BTW Bill, if you have a G2, I'm sure you'll be just as satisfied had you left them in. You can always come back to it just for fun. You only pick up a tiny bit more power below 3K in 1st gear and I don't think anyone can really use all the bike has there flies in. Drag racers seem to favor flies in. You thinking you might be able to bolt ahead quicker if you're riding it soft in 5th, 6th gear if you pull flies? No. They're already open in those gears any rpm.
If you leave 'em in, nobody will know except you. Kawi did a good job safing up the bike for low speed street turns (you can still get yourself in trouble there with flies in, mind you) while maintaining an excellent race launch with flies in. It's cool to know they're gone but it really isn't worth any frustration if you have trouble getting them out of a G2.
Rook

I also have a G2, and do not think it is necessary, the difference gained is not noticable, this bike revs so quik how long are u really below 3K rpm, if i had to do it again, I would leave in.

Good luck with what you decide, and if you do decide to remove, and are mechanically inclined, and follow the tips in this thread, you will have no problems removing.

Adub here is a link to an older post with some more 411 on the G2 and flies out:
http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=9A4B8525-1372-66AE-3B472DEC624F2802

And is this ok to do on a stock bike, or will it create issues later

Johnny, say we ride the speed limit? Say we run any speed and stay there. The subs have opened at said position. If we removed them at speed say for argument sake? You could not tell they came off. BUTT! The response will be quicker, you'll have a more responsive throttle. Will it create issues later is no, not at all.

However, looking back and knowing how much R&D went into thinking you'll make more HP is it causes less, if you read around. Think about this. Brock likes to go 'stupid fast' and he is willing to show you what things you do can cause less HP to be made.

With that said, you have the ability to cause less power out of your bike you begin to modify incorrectly.
1. Aftmrk air cleaners = Lose HP
2. Subthrottle removal = Drops HP
3. Wire (tre) tampering = Saves the engine is it lowers the HP.

Personally, I've been there and came back to keeping the subs in play. As responsive as it is, I get a smoother, more linear, I have air brakes too boot, is to keep the air dam alone, keep my HP, keep it smooth, try not to outhink the engineers.

They package the most powerful. You deflower it if you pull one pedal-She loves to HP-She has no HP-She is built for HP-She lags I am so ready to (((reach around)))

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/3/2013 @ 7:57 AM *

Brock likes to go 'stupid fast' and he is willing to show you what things you do can cause less HP to be made.

Hub Brocks Flash has flies open much sooner ????

We now have the the Exact View of the when and where into the throttle plate opening,,,,, Take em Out. or wait untill your bike reaches 7500 RPM

* Last updated by: Romans on 7/3/2013 @ 9:03 PM *