Assuming I can figure out a suitable location and rig up switches for all of the controls on the OEM handlebar control pods, is there any reason I could not install 7/8" Vortex bars cut about an inch or so shorter? I guess I would have to check carefully to be sure that would not create a clearance problem with the top fairings and ram air covers. Anythong else that might be a problem?

Just thinking it would make a sportier look and feel + drop a few ounces (a pound if I lose the pods) of weight.

how is gonna affect the leverage, and would it require heavier bar ends?

I don't use any bar ends on my busa and I really can't tell the diff. Those things are just a pound of useless weight IMO. I have lightweight aluminum bar ends on the 14. Same feel as OEM far as I can tell.

Leverage...well the 14 does require a stronger input to turn the steering. I seem to get used to it so much that it is unnoticeable. The shorter bars will make a dif there but I can't say if it will become a problem. Good point though.

I have a 7/8" tube bar mount plate made by the p.o. but have often thought whether or not one could modify the stock bars by putting some different tubes into the base mount castings. The issue for me was always the end droop, rather than the specific height of the bars that caused discomfort.

have often thought whether or not one could modify the stock bars by putting some different tubes into the base mount castings.

You mean the clipon part around the top of each fork? the bars clamp into them? I don't see why you couldn't put bars that were first bent with a pipe fitter. Only thing if go with aluminum it doesn't have as much strength if it has been bent. Just a slight bend should be ok, I would think.

They do make clipons that would replace the OEM castings. They are available angled down about 7 degrees. Yes the 14s are already angles down. You must be looking for something that is parallel. Maybe you could put the 7 degreeers on upside down? In any case, that would loon pretty horendous because the top yoke of the 14 holds the ignition. Also might have a little to do with necessary support of the triple tree. I think you would need something up on top.

Also....plan carefully, Make sure the bars will clear the fairings. They come very close Stock.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/26/2014 @ 3:05 PM *

With the tube bar adapter, only the increased pullback keeps my bars from forcing contact between the levers etc. and the fairing and screen. If I were to modify the stock setup, I'd add some pullback to the new bend as well as decrease the droop.

With the tube bar adapter, only the increased pullback keeps my bars from forcing contact between the levers etc. and the fairing and screen. I mounted the new hydraulic reservoirs behind the switchgear rather than in front like the stockers to avoid conflict there. If I were to modify the stock setup, I'd add some pullback to the new bend as well as decrease the droop.

* Last updated by: Danno on 1/28/2014 @ 5:23 AM *