I was wondering which is a better performance gain. Do the Schnitz ecu flash or pull the secondary butterflies out?
The flash is still only 75 bucks. I am going to keep my exhaust now because I love the sound, it doesn't look bad now that I spent some time shinning them up, and I heard they actually flow pretty good for stock exhaust.

thanks
Joel

I really don't care about removing the speed limiter or adding 500 rpm to the redline so the flash isn't giving me much but the early opening of the flies.....I heard it is 3300 rpm that they open but I tnink that was the 2012 version and I have a 2006.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/1/2018 @ 6:45 PM *

Welcome to the forum.

Is this the 2006 ZX14 you mention at the other forum? I am surprised you didn't ask on any of your three threads about the same bike since you said you didn't want to mess with the small screws.

https://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/202412-great-deal-frickin-nightmare.html#post4061282

https://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/202418-cant-figure-out-why-my-bike-lacks-power.html

https://www.zxforums.com/forums/4060960-post1.html

Yeah, that is until I did a search and saw that if you dropped the screw that it would just land on the butterfly and you could retrieve it with a magnetic screw-driver. I know to heat the screw several times for 15 seconds each time and then try and break the seal. I am definitely a screw dropper. I joined more than one forum cause I ask a lot of questions and don't want to irritate others. I do a lot of work to my bike, cause I am recently divorced and it takes my mind off my past life.
I want to keep my exhaust....yes, cause I am cheap, and I like the sound, I like it quiet so I can hear my tunes and not my bike. I may buy some aftermarket cans but not until my other bike sells and then only when I am sure they are not too loud. I am having trouble with hesitation now. I am going to pull the gas tank and pull the fuel pump out and check the screen. I thought it would be a good time to do the flies too as I am basically there anyway.

when I put the bike up for the season I will do the plugs and the pair mod with block off plates.
I broke the hole tab off my tank fairing today and screamed fuck a few times outside....I have been watching videos on plastic repair and have a plan to put it back....it was a clean break so it shouldn't be that hard. I want to reinforce it with fiberglass if I can find it.

I don't think I need a PCV yet, but if I find a used one for a good deal I may get one. I gotta chase this hesitation and bad idle first.

thanks
Joel

The timing restriction will be removed with the Schnitz flash. I just read my notes from Ivan and he said derestricting the flies was the main advantage and derestricting timing was a smaller improvement. I would spend the $75 on the flash and get both. I've never ridden an 06-07 zx-14 but I'm sure you will notice a change.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=D4CE28C8-DD76-8629-D1A83A9F4CA45D83

Removing flies or tuning their opening rate should do the same thing. 06-07 owners claimed they felt a huge change just removing them without adjusting fueling. My 08 was unchanged after removing the flies and tuning fueling smoothed it out but did not seem to add power unless it was way down below 3000 rpm wher the flies open. Yours open at 6000 rpm so you're missing useable power in the range you use 99% of the time.

Yeah, that is until I did a search and saw that if you dropped the screw that it would just land on the butterfly and you could retrieve it with a magnetic screw-driver.

I do a lot of work to my bike, cause I am recently divorced and it takes my mind off my past life.

I broke the hole tab off my tank fairing today and screamed fuck a few times outside....

Yeah I screamed fuck a few times too when the wind came and blew my fairings over tha tI had carefully leaned against the wall in the garage. Yup--just tipping over and rocking on the cement floor was enough to put some bad scratches on them. Always lay them flat, never put them on a shelf, never put them where the wind can catch them.

I would look on Ebay for a fuel tank cover that matches your bike color. Read for "No damage to tabs" and zoom in on the pics. YOu know where to look for damage. I've had all good luck buying fairings on Ebay and I've purchased a tank cover, both ram air covers and both Foreman grills. All from different sellers. Sure it's typical for them to be scuffed up but I can polish that out pretty easily. Maybe a few light scratches in the clearcoat. Heck, I can even fix that with some rattelcan clearcoat and mild polishing compound. There's no reason to spend big on fairings if you can wait to find something on Ebay. You might get it half price of new and if it's more expensive, it should be in really good condition. You really can tell by the pics very near what it will look like when you open the box. At least that has been my experience.

The fuel tank fairing tabs that the tines on top of thank hook into? Those are not real necessary. The three screws will hold it secure, no problem.

Epoxy won't last long on fairings. You could try but It has let go on me three times. The vibration shakes it loose. I sanded used an overlapping piece of ABS to mend the crack and everything and it still came loose. A plastic welder would be better.

I've read fiberglass doesn't stick to plastic. --well, I know epoxy doesn't and that's pretty much the same thing.

I don't think I need a PCV yet, but if I find a used one for a good deal I may get one.

Get it if it's a good deal but you have no use for one without some mods that effect air intake. Removing or tuning flies will effect air intake so you might be safer getting one if you do that. I don't think there was a world of difference running my full system on stock fueling compared to a few maps I tried and finally self tuning. The improvements are subtle. It's a safe thing to do if you get some intake mods but I don't know that it's actually necessary just for a pipe. The 06-07 probably has some lean spots on stock fueling with flies out. It might be at lower rpm where lean won't do any harm but I'd still like to correct that if I were going to ride constantly at that rpm.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/2/2018 @ 10:08 AM *

Rook that was maybe the most thorough answers I have ever gotten from the forums I have been too. You are right about the tank fairing being stable without the hole to run a screw threw but it does leave the seam a bit open below it because of the flaw. I know its there but I doubt if any non-zx owner would see it. I will leave it until winter because I am going to be in this bike up to my elbows for several things so why stress a new fix. I have a custom paint job so an aftermarket fairing isn't going to help with my tank fairing (see pics)

I am a person trainer by trade so if I can help you with any diet exercise questions I would be very glad to help. That goes for anyone else on this forum. There is an incredible amount of non-sense in my field. Here are a few points to remember. There is ofcoarse a shit load more of info I can provide if you have a desire to fine-tune your body like we do with our machines.

1. Never eat carbs until dinner. This greatly improves fat burning and cures carb addiction.
2. try not to eat protein until mid after-noon.
3. Never do cardio to burn fat....doesn't work......cardio is to build your heart....only.
4. Never lift weight thinking you will burn more calories through the day because of it.....non-sense. weights are to firm up muscle that has the consistency of fat, and bring up lagging muscles to make you look better....period.
5. Personal trainers are trained very well in client retention - fancy way of meaning they are aimed at keeping you coming back for more month after month. I can teach a monkey most of what they need to know it 2 months...give or take a week or two.
7. do not ever eat low fat or non fat anything.
8. familiarize your-self with the insulin-index ratings of foods.....this is how much your insulin goes up when you ingest a particular food.
9. Try not to eat a high carb and high fat meal......you ingested 2 fuels.....one of them is going to be stored.
10. Don't listen to anyone that says calories in vs calories out....it is not peoples basic metabolisms that makes them fat.....it is their levels of insulin resistance combined with the fact that they are not going long enough each day without food. If you stop eating at 7pm and then start at 7am you did not go without food for 12 hours.....more like 6. Your stomach is a sack. the food gets digested slowly in your stomach...first carbs, then proteins and then fats. Then it has to get into your body via your small intestines.....technically your mouth to asshole is outside your body. You small intestines take about an hour to do their job, then you have to wait for your body to transport all the nutrients you ate via your insulin into the cells.....then your insulin levels will fall to a level that allows you to burn fats for fuel.....if you are lucky you are burning fat for 6-7 hours each night, and as soon as you wake up and eat a bowl of cereal with skim milk you just shut down fat burning. combine this with the fact that you eat carbs with every meal and it is no wonder why everyone is so fat...your bodies suck at burning fats for fuel because you are giving it a much more concentrated powerful fuel source by eating carbs all day.

anyway this is enough for most people to grasp. PM me with questions. I am done boring you guys.

thanks
Joel

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/2/2018 @ 11:10 AM *

still learning how to use this site. Here are some pics hopefully

Joel

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/userfiles/ExWifesChewToy/IMG_20180729_093637416_BURST000_COVER_TOP%20(1).jpg

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/2/2018 @ 11:13 AM *

Welcome Joel

I was about to offer you a great deal on a tank cover but I know it won't match that paint job. That is one wild and truly original paint scheme.
I have an 07 with flies removed, no flash, bike is buttery smooth down low. I would certainly recommend removing them.

I have an 07 with flies removed, no flash, bike is buttery smooth down low. I would certainly recommend removing them.

I just ran all the fuel out of my bike and what was left I siphoned......and spit a lot. I am going to remove the tank and see what the fuel pump screen looks like.....can I force fuel back through the outlet to get some of the inner fuel filter clean? I heard it is unaccessable. I will already be tore apart to do the flies so I am going to hit them too. I was gonna do the ecu flash but free mods are hard to pass up.

thanks
Joel
and thanks for the hearty welcome and the complement on my paint job.

Welcome to the place. Here's what little I know.
1. Bike starts right up? Yes.
2. Bike has a history you know of? Meaning, when was the air cleaner changed last, plugs changed and all those required intervals?
3. Say you haven't pulled the pump yet. Did you first check for a dirty air cleaner or changed the plugs ever 8k or less?

So these are the 2 basic variables that are first eliminated with the computer bike. Everything else is hands off, sans setting valves, adjusting/lubing chain, tire pressure, hardware, and now walk away from any mods... Or else!

Do you like the gear option and are use to it and rather have it now than not? Then short of pulling fly screws, the bike is old enough to hack the gear position wire. What I did was run a toggle to the one wire and if I wanted to hack said wire, I'd throw the switch and render the wire out of the loop and keep the others connected. If I wanted to return to stock I'd flip the switch off.

After all is said and done with the pc, the flash, and the pipe mods, is it really worth that little extra bite of grunt? Not really. Especially finding that removing the flies drops the HP down a few ponies in a linear sort of way. Your bike and all that, but money is better spent on quality plugs, oil, and filters.

Brown/cigar color rims = First Gen.
Like I keep saying, if you want a faster bike, don't hit the brakes as soon. It's all about input of the right hand and feeding your fear.

Pump Assy:
1. A small, square plastic, clear colored screen, is below the steel motor cavity it circles. So to get to this, you can either see it [not sure], or you'd have to begin the disassembly.
2. Now that you could see the screen [let's say without disassembly], it's pretty clean down there, right? You probably won't find much, sans a rusty tank. Then yes, spray brake/contact cleaner down that base so you force the rust particles to dislodge off the steel base cavity. turn it upside down and watch what falls out. Spray into the exit tube to the injector fuel line, pour that out of the tube and note debris. Now you have a problem.
3. The problem is, and say you are now physically looking at the removed pump; see the large black plastic 'filter housing' where the little square screen is attached to at the bottom? That's the MAIN Filter. Because of the micro rust particles that would float with the gas, then enter the injector, then become lodged into one of those tiny holes in the injector body, that large plastic filter is basically a micro type non-cleanable filter = Buy a New pump assy to have a clean filter body.

Can you reverse clean it? If you have a lot of time on your hands, want to spend money on cans of brake/contact cleaner/gas/kerosene/other chemicals that won't melt, expand, destroy the integrity of the filter. All I can say is good luck trying. You still have to contend with the rusty tank or it begins the cycle all over again. Say $400 for a new pump. You threw $140 say for cleaner. See how part of that paid for the attempt and failed; rather than towards the pump?

Signed,
NOLTT

the bike is old enough to hack the gear position wire. What I did was run a toggle to the one wire and if I wanted to hack said wire, I'd throw the switch and render the wire out of the loop and keep the others connected. If I wanted to return to stock I'd flip the switch off.

As far as the tank is concerned, you should be able to get at rust better with the fuel pump removed. You'll need to replace the whole thing if you want a perfectly clean filter. There's an outer filter that can be changed but the inner is in permanently. You must change the whole pump.

hub and rook.....I don't know if I quote you if it sends you a message that I replied to your quote like some other sites I have been to or not.

anyway. Here is what I found.....tank looks like new, no rust. I took apart the pump. Found the only filter that is accessible. It didn't look dirty compared to some pictures of dirty filters I found on the web. I shot brake cleaner first through it reverse and then shot it everywhere....then I stuck it in a cup full of gas to soak.

While that was soaking I got out my torch and went to work on my flies.....all screws came out but one and it stripped......fuck, fuck, fuck! I decided to drill it out.....not good. I eventually got it out but had to stop constantly because I lined the tube with grease to catch the shavings and was using my vacuum to get some while I drilled too. I spent a solid 45 minutes drilling the screw head and cleaning up all signs of metal with my magnet and clean clothes. I then detailed the inside of the air box cause I found a few shavings in there too. Well the flies are out but they ain't going back in cause that last hole is fucked up beyond fixing. I check to see if I could back out the base of the headless screw and it was still stuck so at least I know it won't vibrate loose.

ok, put the filter back together and I had taken a few pictures every time I did anything to the pump so I could get it back together the same way. I didn't have a new pump gasket so I took the old one off cleaned it up and reinstalled it.....it looked like new and seemed to function fine. No leaks.

bike started up right away which to me was odd sense I completely unhooked the tank. I then ran about 1/4 gallon of gas mixed with an entire can of seafoam at idle for about 45 minutes. It is idling fine now but I was exhausted by the time I put all the plastics back on and installed the speedo healer I got used from another member on another site. I now need to program it and then go for a test ride. I did enjoy every minutes of the repairs sans the stripped screw head.

Joel

oh, i forgot to tell you guys i added 1 1/4" risers to the bike and it is so much more comfortable and I didn't have to mess with the lines. I am getting steel braided lines for the front/rear brakes and the clutch line next so I will have them add 2" to it so it has a bit more slack. I also got spools for the rear and front rear stands. I found that my tire pressure was at only 15psi in the front and 25psi in the rear.....that might have not been good at 100 plus mph. Fixing that today.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/3/2018 @ 12:44 PM *

I did not need any extension to my brake or clutch line when I added risers. There was plenty of slack to play with. I put Galfer lines on steel braided and there have been no issue with the standard line length.

ok, guys I am really stuck. Here is what I know

2006 zx14 with 3500 miles. went 350 miles to chicago to pick it up.
guy didn't do shit to it but ride it and change the oil once.
has original tires in good shape.
Had 9 month old gas in it when I picked it up.
had mid to top end hesitation....power similar to a 125cc engine.
after several tanks of fresh fuel by the time I got home it was pulling hard.
after I got home it was running fine in the low rpms.....going around corners fine in high gears....upper end it was hesitating.....then 3rd day. It ran perfect.....then fourth day it hesitated in low rpm and pulled hard in upper rpms.. Now today after pulling the fuel pump, and cleaning the screen, and running seafoam through it in a high concentration of seafoam to fuel, and pulling the secondary flies....it is really bad in low rpms and at cruise it hesitates to start pulling then pulls fucking hard.....real hard. wheel is coming up in second gear now.
it bogs in every gear at low rpms now. It is getting much worse not better. Unfortunately I am not going to ride it this way as I look like a newb every time I start at a light and it surges on me.

its gotta be fuel related with those switching symptoms doesn't it?

I am no mechanic but can read and follow a manual and have not ever had to take my bike anywhere.

Oh, and it back-fired in second slowing down for my driveway.....flies?

It has a new K&N filter freshly cleaned and oiled.

just don't know what to do.....If I bring it to the stealer will they be able to read a code and that points in the direction of what to fix?

I got beer money for anyone that can send me in the right direction.

thanks
Joel

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/3/2018 @ 3:44 PM *

Turn key on. Hold down TRIP and MODE together at the same time and hold it there until the dash flashes a code or ???

NOLTT = No one listens to turtle when I said to leave the flies in, hack the flies instead. Now you have a bog/hez which sounds like you're more hammering the throttle, not rolling it on smoothly. Keep riding it and let the seafoam/gasoline etch the sitting-ness of the stale gas decomposing.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/3/2018 @ 4:58 PM *

Sounds like the old power commander hidden somewhere with a bad ground problem to me, either that or change the fairings to green. It will be faster with green

old gas has been gone for 300 miles at least. I am ordering a new pump. I need to rule out the internal filter and it is sealed in the pump so, plus I dropped the unit and am not sure if I damaged the pump but one would think it wouldn't run better when under high demand if it were damaged. I can't do much with no parts so I am going to check the coils this weekend and keep riding it close to home to see if it clears up some. Fucking sucks though. There is no pc anywhere under the seat and previous owner said it was all stock. I ordered iridium plugs from amazon so I should get them by tuesday and put them in. I am not working right now so messing with the bike for part of the day is fine with me.

Joel

look for the PC III around the left ram air duct, the plastic box tube into the intake plenum

Probably low probability but if there is a black wire and a ground lug between the coolant overflow tank and the frame its there somewhere

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 8/3/2018 @ 11:38 PM *

hub and rook.....I don't know if I quote you if it sends you a message that I replied to your quote like some other sites I have been to or not.

...tank looks like new, no rust.

I took apart the pump. Found the only filter that is accessible. It didn't look dirty compared to some pictures of dirty filters I found on the web.

Well the flies are out but they ain't going back in cause that last hole is fucked up beyond fixing.

bike started up right away which to me was odd sense I completely unhooked the tank. I then ran about 1/4 gallon of gas mixed with an entire can of seafoam at idle for about 45 minutes.

That was a hell of a lot of Seafoam. Maybe it's all the Seafoam you put in there making it run like crap.

There is no pc anywhere under the seat and previous owner said it was all stock.

look for the PC III around the left ram air duct, the plastic box tube into the intake plenum

+1 on what Rudy said. You are describing exactly what I had to deal with when my power commander went bad. Mine was the ground at first but finally had to replace the whole power commander.
One other thing to consider is a pinched fuel or fuel tank vent line.

One other thing to consider is a pinched fuel or fuel tank vent line.

If the fuel line was kinked, just replace it.

Would the vent being blocked do anything? That would hinder air displacement and possibly cause some vacuum in the tank but could that be enough to slow down fuel delivery? If you open your tank and hear air suck in, could be but then again, that isn't unusual either. I've had that when the tank gets low but the bike ran fine.

Would the vent being blocked do anything? That would hinder air displacement and possibly cause some vacuum in the tank but could that be enough to slow down fuel delivery?

I think I remember someone with a clogged fuel filter saying the bike ran better with the tank full. If the fuel is really blocked off, a little extra pressure or a little vacuum might have a noticeable impact on the delivery.

ok, guys here is what I did today. I think I fucked my self with the seafoam. I think it mobilized the crud that was in the tank and plugged the injectors enough that they stumble unless its WOT. That is my theory anyway. I drained the tank as far as I could with a siphon and then hooked a hose up to the fuel pump and drained the rest of the fuel by turning the key on and off about 50 times.....worked. Then I added 2 cans of berrymans in the tank and then added some fuel. I ran it for about 15 minutes on 15 off a few times today. I also removed the side fairing and put the broken piece on and superglued it. Then after it is dry I will drill a tiny hole in the broken piece and the fairing and then wrap a wire tightly between the two. If it fails it won't get lost and I can try and reattach it again. Lastly I am going to JB weld over the top of my supper-glue and then let it dry and reapply another layer. I sanded all the paint off both parts so I am hoping this will work. That nipple on the right side of the tank fairing only sets in the hole and doesn't snap in so If I am very careful it may last a long time. It has been raining here so I am not riding today. I ordered a used PCV off ebay for 200 bucks that looks like new in the picture but it will have to sit on the shelf until I get this stumbling resolved.

question.
Will another year pump work in my bike? I heard the 08 are a better unit and are plug and play with the 06. They are about 40 bucks cheaper too. I think my pump is fine though cause I turned the key with the fuel line off and it squirted fuel on me and everything else until I turned off the key. (three stooges moment)

The bike revs fine without hesitation which is odd cause I still have the mixture in it. It hesitated when I just had gas only in it this morning.

2. could my air-flow sensor be fouled from the seafoam? The bike ran like shit with seafoam going through it...smoked, smelled.....doesn't do that with the b-12....seems to run good on it at that high of a concentration.

as always thanks for your help
Joel
I will get back to you tomorrow after I drive it to let you know if this shit worked.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/4/2018 @ 4:01 PM *

Seafoam is not gas - it's to attract and combine with H2O and crud/crap and help de-carbon the engine and remove varnish deposits. It's mostly Naptha and a couple other snake oils.

I bet some good gas will change things and a new fuel pump wont hurt

Yes, any 14 pump is universal. First year had a deep cavity. Later years had a shallower base cavity. As the tank lays down on the frame, the base fits in a rear fender recess. You'll be fine clearing the fender with a late model. But I don't think you need a pump. The purge tells the story. If it dripped out, I'd say yeah, looks like it. Take the year minus today's date, divided by mileage. So a 12 year old bike with 3,500 miles = 291 miles a year.

So fresh gas, injector cleaner, seafoam, marvel mystery oil, anything to remove 291 miles a year's caking there of. Read the labels. You have 5.8 gal to proportion against the cans of cleaners. Chevron might have a cleaner. I'd more chase this can.

No, to the sensor. Sensors have to electrically fail, not fail by fuel ratio contamination.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/4/2018 @ 5:34 PM *