Okay-is it possible for ONE clutch plate to cause the WHOLE clutch unit to stop working?Thanks all-Ride safe

Yes. You have 3 adjustable plates to dial-in a certain distance. So think about it. That one plate is gonna mess the throw and lockup is going to be deep where the spring expands to follow the pressure against < Get it? Less throw at the lever you drag the gears to grind they keep spinning. You creep forward you do not have enough pull to separate the plates.

Symptoms caused by breaking-out of clutch basket tolerance.

1. Poor Clutch Release = Happens at the lever-away from-grip you have no control it is locked up.
2. Gear Grind = The [crank] plates keep spinning the other [used to move the rear wheel] plates, you hear/feel that pounding/grinding.
3. N is hard to find = As with #2, the clutches hang on the other and that holds you as if you were moving forward, you are pulling up on a gear under load is imagine that little bit is kill the engine so you do not bend what is your ankle can do is bust parts if you like.
4. Liquid is the floating buoy. So, you compress, say it is not as static as a cable where you can feed that plate with a better feel. The liquid might call for a tighter tolerance because there is no real thumb-wheel you could just follow the springs or pressure plate moving into the clutch outer. You have that M/C moved from the lever to grip and that is all she wrote is no thumb-wheel static adjustment but use the 3 plates to compensate for the others that are wearing down also, but are still within service spec.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/4/2009 @ 9:17 AM *

Thanks Hub-I think I understand-guy on another forum having symptoms just like you're saying(the clutch throw is all screwed up,it slips,won't hold.He's having a heck of a time getting it worked out.Went in for a tire change,came out with a CLUTCH MALFUNCTIONING!(how does THAT happen?)He's on zxforums.com.You might want to give him yer input-I feel sorry for the guy.Apparently the "mechanic" told him his "friction plate"(singular)was shot(?)How could he know that?
His clutch was working fine according to him BEFORE he brought it in(5,000 miles on the bike)for the tire change.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/4/2009 @ 10:26 AM *

I am banned from that forum. He can come here [cut & paste this] or you and I can tag team his problem here, relay our conversations back to him. This is universal clutch speak. It is generic diagnosis.

Your buddy? His clutch was hammered by that test ride. Go check his test rider and follow his test ride after a tire change. I admit, I beat the crap out of your bike but just not that beat up it could not race another practice within minutes or seconds hand the bike over to you. You have to take the assumption (His) was shot the day of that tire change is I am going to call that guy out on the tire change/test ride.

I was like that guy being, he must be like me but more abuse than riding the basic test ride for spark plug integrity at high rpm; and that takes one gear to find out, I am done beating your bike] = I had an excuse. That bike better be race ready I hand it back to you as you brought it to me as in say the clutch was about to go? That ride did it in I love beating your bike as you borrow mine?!?

Gotta trust the guy at the both cable(s) and/or liquid side. That's why you hear so many runs on that one clutch pack. You give me a few feet with that pack... It will be sucking up; burnt clutch plate fiber right up the oil screen thru the pump, out the cam tower cap is that a traveling mess with burnt clutch for your one test drive/ride?

Have him remove the oil cap, smell for burnt clutch... Someone has some explaining to do.

You can go on there HUB and just read his posts-he was a little hard to follow with his explanations.Sounded like simple air in the line scenario to me-I went through that myself.You can read it(under "clutch" topic)and see what you think?