Dear all, I need help on my 2013 ZX14R. It recently hiccups and stutter like it runs out of gas. This happens when I ride it for an hour or more, before that it's okay. I am confuse so is my mechanic. He even tries to change the spark plugs and clean the fuel pump but it still happens. Recently he tries to change the pulser it just prolong the distance a bit but starts to stutter again. I highly appreciate your advice or have you ever experience something like this before?

Hi brizz, where are you from?
I ask because I want to know if your 14 came spec'd with an O2 sensor off the exhaust header (Europe/Australia) or atmospheric sensor under the seat (US)?
If your bike has an O2 sensor that has gone faulty or you recently flashed your ECU it could cause your issues.

Please read the below link.

Flash Negatives

I'm not saying it's definitely your answer but worth checking out...

* Last updated by: yannih on 5/11/2017 @ 11:08 AM *

I'd run a timing light and when it begins to stutter, pull the trigger and watch for misfire or consistency. The light never misses a beat, then it's fuel pump pressure. If you could only get a '012 or '013 ECU to swap once the stutter shows up. Swap it and if it cleans up = ECU.

RE: Help! my bike stutters
05/11/17 10:32 AM
Hi brizz, where are you from?
I ask because I want to know if your 14 came spec'd with an O2 sensor off the exhaust header (Europe/Australia) or atmospheric sensor under the seat (US)?
If your bike has an O2 sensor that has gone faulty or you recently flashed your ECU it could cause your issues.
Please read the below link.
Flash Negatives
I'm not saying it's definitely your answer but worth checking out...

Hi Yannih,

My bike is full ABS and KTRC equipped. I don't which version it was. I lived in Indonesia.

I suspect it also maybe the O2 sensor since this happening when I installed a pair of Z1000 slip ons from Termignoni.

Can you please inform me on how to check the O2 sensor?

Thanks,

Look on the right side down at the pipe. Where all 4 collect into the 'collector' you'll find an 02 sensor there. If no sensor, then it's not a closed loop system. Even if the stutter was caused by the 02 it should code a bad sensor. No code, not a sensor per say.

Crank pulse sensor goes hot and shuts off the bike. Pulse is a constant and is builtin with a heat temp range as are resistors with a working heat range.

Cold: No stutter.
Hot: Stutter.

Sounds more electrical than fuel related.

Signed,
NOLTT (knowing of lighting triggering timing) x's 4

What else did you do on the bike when you changed the exhausts?
I'm with Hub on the O2 sensor, if it is disconnected it would normally have thrown an error code/orange warning light on the clocks.
I have read on the U.K. Sight that some guys have ridden with it disconnected and the bike adjusts fuel until it goes into a lean/rich situation which eventually bogs the bike down. In any case check that it's turned in properly into the exhaust and that the plug is firmly plugged in? Or try and disconnect it and see if there is any difference.

Does it stutter at certain rpm?

Do you have a Power Comander on your bike?

It had no error ligths or signs it just start to buck when it goes at least 1 hour on the street. Before that everything is fine.

I had no PC on my bike. Problem starts when I change the exhaust to slip on cans for Z1000.

Simply remove the slips,reinstall stockers...then see.

I'm guessing clogged fuel tank vent? idk Do the hacked exhaust have clogged cats in them?

Look on the right side down at the pipe. Where all 4 collect into the 'collector' you'll find an 02 sensor there. If no sensor, then it's not a closed loop system. Even if the stutter was caused by the 02 it should code a bad sensor. No code, not a sensor per say.

Crank pulse sensor goes hot and shuts off the bike. Pulse is a constant and is builtin with a heat temp range as are resistors with a working heat range.

Cold: No stutter.
Hot: Stutter.

Sounds more electrical than fuel related.

Signed,
NOLTT (knowing of lighting triggering timing) x's 4

Hi Hub,

Is the crank sensor the same with o2? if not, how to check it then?

Many thanks

No, the sensors are not the same, check per the service manual

You know how your eyes rattle in your head after a certain mph? When I ran out of road and rolled off, the bike sort of fell on its face, wanted to stall, couldn't smoothly ride it, bucked and ran like shit. Got it home, turned the bike off and figured it would clear up the processing it was putting out. Took it for a ride the next day and had the yellow CEL remain steady. Toggled a code and 33 popped up = 02 sensor.

The light remains on to this day. I haven't cycled the key enough to make the code clear. The bike runs fine, no miss or driveability issues. Is the 02 similar to the crank sensor? No. Once the cs fails, no spark, i.e., it's the #2 cause of a boat anchor. The ECU is the 1st cause of a boat anchor. Without the 02, you can ride it till the compression depletes without a problem.

Two ways to check the cs is to let it heat up normally and if the bike stalls out due to heat, then it's the cs. Second way is to match book values against the part. Will the cs cause a miss? Doubt it. It's either putting out the magnetic pulse or does not.

The 02 is measured via warmed up against the book's procedures. Will the 02 cause an issue like I experienced? Probably, but it's more 'volatile' (RAM) input and is discarded via grounding the last input. Meaning, as long as the bike runs, poor input processing until the RAM is grounded with key off, not in the DTT type process of the bike still running>> sending in input with that code being set on the initial fly... if that makes sense processing wise.

Without riding the bike, it might be a bad batch of gas, a spark plug being dirty or misfires, sends in a phantom code. Other than something off the wall, 'it started when I changed the pipe' could be way out there or a rare occurrence. As mentioned, swap out the pipe back to stock and if the problem clears???

Hi all,

Finally I think I know what the problem is. My mechanic found out that the gas tank was full with rust and it clogged the fuel pump! it has been cleaned and now running well but he said that the rust may come again.

If you have any idea or experience on how to avoid this to happen again please do tell me.

Thanks again!

First, NEVER leave your bike parked for any length of time with an empty tank. ALWAYS fill it to the brim especially where you live. An empty tank leads to rust. There are additives that you can add to the fuel that help disperse water too.

Mad

watch out for steel jerricans, they get rusty too... used to keep spare petrol in one of them at home, since the closest petrol station is 40 klicks away
noticed how the inside of the made-in-China jerrican got rusty after a while... switched rightaway to a certified-for-petrol plastic jerrican, no worries ever since...

Seafoam at 1oz per gallon every refill. I use Seafoam on
every re-fill in my bikes.

Phase Separation can occur when using Ethanol blended fuels.
Especially if you live in a area with high humidity.

Seafoam helps prevent phase separation. When phase separation occurs
water separates and settles on the bottom of the tank and can cause rusting.

Usually more of a problem with bikes that used to have a reserve.

Google "Seafoam phase separation" for more info.

If I had a tank that started to rust at any point I would buy the
kit to reseal the tank. They sell a epoxy kit to re-seal tanks.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to have a hard time to look for the chemicals here but will order one from Ebay if needed.

I am just glad it is not electronic issue ot other mechanical expensive parts, however I might need to order a new gas tank (hope not :))

Thanks again especially for Hub!

Best,
Bob