13 something static volts falls rapidly with an engine start sequence.14 something is good as you're riding....it will NOT read that just sitting.You did fine replacing it;)No worries now;)

This is a shorai chart for 'static' testing.

The lead battery spins faster because of it's larger cca number.
The test is to ride the bike with both batteries to see if the shorai has a blip, or back to the wiring/ECU = Cutout/cutoff is still there.
The test is to see if the ECU coming back does nothing, the wiring does nothing = shorai.

There are 2 things to look at with batteries. One is voltage, the other is current or charge. Voltage is easy to check. Current a little harder. If you want to be totally sure about baterry you need to load test it. Put a volt meter on battery to read voltage on battery. Turn on bike check voltage. Now hit satrt button to see what voltqge drops to. If it goes lower than 11 -12 volts battery is weak. Voltage on display monitor's just monitor's battery and stator charging at same time.

It is also entirely possible/plausible to have broken +ve or -ve posts and plates inside the battery. I have had one that was fine one minute, totally dead the next. It turned out that the +ve post had broken loose inside. It is also possible to have a broken/weak connection between the cells and posts in a lithium too I guess.

That's watt I was thinking. I'd take a test light and prong it to the +/- posts and now smack the battery down on the bench at all sorts of corners and angles to see if the light goes off or flickers fandango.

Yup....I've broken one of those posts as well trying to tighten it....gotta be careful when tightening.....I put a little dab of blue locktite on mine....works really well.

Yeah I'm going to do some load tests just to see what happens.... Other than that I've done just about everything I can think of. Lol

Ok so as you guys know....Last week I changed the plugs,reflashed the ECU with my custom tune, took off the PCV, took off my kill switch lanyard, changed the oil & filter, changed the air cleaner, installed the new battery. I took her for a ride and she ripped for sure. Feeling good that with all that stuff being done I'm sure I got the issue....well this morning the sun was shining and the birds were singing and I was feeling a sweet ride on my baby to work....Well I went out pushed her out of the garage and went to start her and guess what??? NOTHING!!!! WTH... I decided to crank the crap outta her and for a split second she actually popped but no fire. So at this point the only damn thing I can think of that might be wrong is either the cam sensor went bad?? Or maybe my HM quick shifter got wet and is messed up. What do you guys think? It’s not a big deal to take the shift out of the loop by unplugging it but how would I test the cam sensor?

Take ALL of the aftermarket out of the loop.

Cam sensor: ECU saves last signal. This is volatile data so when key is off, the next saved signal is technically, what cylinder was last fired? I fire on this cylinder upon key on being the firing is in sequence of its firing order.
a. I roll the bike out, it fires. I must have a good cam sensor.
b. It keeps firing off even though it is intermittent.
c. I have to conclude the cam sensor is good.

Crank sensor: This is a no start to heat induced shutoff, then cools, starts back up.
a. I rolled it out after all the parts changes and I came back home.
b. I never stalled as if the crank sensor is heat related when out for this last ride.
c. I have to conclude the crank sensor is good.

Why?: Because now you bring another aftermarket that is still in the loop. And shift kit is all about spark or fuel kill.

I hear you Hub thanks.... When I was cranking it it cranked for 4 or 5 seconds and then a pop not really a fire. anmd then it wouldn't do it again. so thats why I was thinking timing sensor or the quick shifter. the quick shifter is a sealed unit but who the hells knows.

That's what you get for falling in love with that ZX-10! lol Seriously I hope you're able to sort it out soon. The problem with having a lot of mods... it's harder to troubleshoot issues. As far as the Shorais, they are still Terra Incognita. Mine is slow to start the bike after I charge it but when I ride often my finger is still on the button and the engine is running. From what I gather Shorai start acting up 2-3 years in, especially when you don't ride for a couple of days. I always take the charger with me on long rides.

Yeah no dought Drag.... Lol so I went out and pulled all the plastics off on Sunday and checked the timing sensor and it looked fine. So like Hub said I took off the last mod I could the HM quick shifter. I was pretty sure this was not it because it's a sealed unit and figured there no way for it to get wet. And guess what? When I pushed the start button..... SHE STARTED!!!! She screamed back to life! It was the damn quick shifter all along. SOB what a pain in the ass... No more mods for my baby. We go on way too long ride to the middle of no where to not have her be reliable. I'll save the crazy mods for my 10R. Lol thank to all you guys as always for helping me solve the problem...

Cheers!

You could always switch the HM over to the 10r. You might need a loom if the 14 connectors don't fit the 10r.

Should be fine switching from zx14 to zx10. Swaped mine from my 06 ZX10 to the zx14.
Kinda interesting that the quick shifter would cause it not to start. Unless there's a bad pin or connection to one of the spark plug connectors?????

hahaha way ahead of you guys....I installed the same HM quick shifter on the 10R back one cold December night dreaming of banging gears pegged at WOT! lol But I did call HM and waiting to hear back as far as warranty. this thing is only two years old and it was $500.00 so I hope they do something.

Kinda interesting that the quick shifter would cause it not to start. Unless there's a bad pin or connection to one of the spark plug connectors?????

That's exactly what I was thinking (unless you saw signs of a short caused by water). My Bazzaz Z-fi on the busa hooks inline with the injectors just the same way the HM hooks to my 14's injectors. The Bazzaz triggred the FI warning light on the busa when I started it. I could not tell that there was any problem by the sound of the idle and I did not want to test ride it. I called Francois at Bazzaz and he told me the problem was probably a bent pin in one of the connectors. I checked twice and all looked good. called back and he said look VERY closely. So I did and sure enough one was ever so slightly bent. I would have never noticed it. Those things have to be perfectly straight to mate with the contact, at least on the Bazzaz.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/2/2014 @ 3:06 PM *

Rook I hear ya but when I put it on three years ago I never took it off. And it just stopped working so I can't see how a pin would bend. I think it may have gotten wet some how even know it looks to be sealed pretty well. Be I rode her sun,mon and Tuesday and no issues. Crazy Crap.

can't be a bent pin then. Probably water.

Before we warranty up, for grins, dielectric grease the electrical prongs of the connectors and reinstall. We want to see if:

1. The male/female situation was it.
2. The switch body wire heading into the body itself.
3. The water sneaking up into the shaft and entered that way.

Last race was in the rain and there are tons of those used in that series if not racing, period. Therefore, I do not see bikes off to the side in the rain due to a short in the shift kit.

Did:

A. Rain stab the prongs and short due to no grease?
B. The switch body harness into the unit does not look tight or looks like there is a place for entry?
C. The switch body loosened up on the shaft and have water entry there?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/4/2014 @ 7:56 AM *