I never had a problem with the older cables that connect link DJ modules together. They stay in, the fit and they work without taking up much space.

The new ones are twice as long and they don't bend near the plug so they require an inch of space just for the plug to stick out. I hate it!

I have been told that the CAN cable for DJ's Power Vision Autotune still has the old plugs so if you want that, you need to order it by phone for about $25 with shipping. It's 72" long but I would rather cut and solder or just coil up all that extra wire somewhere where there is room than have those big honkin plugs sticking out. My god they're awful if you are trying to fit your module in a tight location.

It's possible you might be able to cut enough plastic away from the new style of plug to convert it into something like the old ones but I haven't tried yet.

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I ordered the CAN cable for DJ's Power Vision Autotune. They are the same thing as the updated cable except they have the small plug without the shielded neck so you can bend them any way you want. Just call to ask for them. Cost me about $50 for 3 cables. There is a PC5 promo code for 15% off right now which I forgot to ask for but might apply.

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LOL Fucking DJ tech support!!! While I'm at it, might as well review that. If you get the feeling right away this person knows less than you do, ------YOU ARE RIGHT! If the guy stammers or acts like your question was foolish it's because he doesn't know the the answer. To make matters worse, he probably won't tell you he doesn't know. Just tell him you do not believe he knows what he is talking about and ask him to call you back when he figures it out for sure. Your bike is worth too much to trust some shmuck with 40 hours of Dynojet training. My advice--find out who is a more uperlevel technical person and talk to him. That's what I'm going to do. I already know omne guy but don't want to mention his name on the forum. There's probably a reason they hire shmucks to answer phone calls and I'd hate for this guy to get bombed with emails. You'll figure it out if it matters. Just remember if the tech you talk to doesn't have an answer right away and he can't offer an explanation, he doesn't know his ass from his elbow.

Here's what i got. My old CAN cable is on the right. They just sent me three of the new CAN cables which I have no use for at all. They're going back and they're paying shipping. I asked the guy twice if he was certain they had the old style plug and do they have all 4 wires. He answered yes. shit.

IDK--I'll probably try chopping down the new cable I already had so it will fit like the old ones do.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/30/2017 @ 5:11 PM *

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I've called DJ tech support at least once before and the guy was pretty knowledgeable and helpful. Since he did answer my questions and I didn't have to pay for the support I was pretty happy with what they offered but I might have also just gotten lucky with the person I had.

How easily to the new cables bend in the middle? Can you easily bend the cables to do a "180" in order to plug in modules stacked on top of each other?

I'm pretty glad they are doing SOMETHING with the CAN cables, I found they didn't stay in the module very reliably (I zip tied them to the module to help hold the cables in), the cables are pretty flimsy with no boots to support the bend radius (although this hasn't been an issue) and I have no idea why there is a 2 wire and a 4 wire version.

I discovered having the 2 wire CAN cable plugged in between Module A and the PCV versus Module B and the PCV (which has the 4 wire CAN cable) seemed to be causing problems with starting my bike. I scoured the manuals to find DJ's recommendation for which cable to use where but there isn't any mention of which cable to use where.

How easily to the new cables bend in the middle? Can you easily bend the cables to do a "180" in order to plug in modules stacked on top of each other?

Oh sure, they are not a whole lot stiffer than the old cables but because they are shielded, the neck of the cable just before the plug won't bend nearly as sharp of a radius. If you try to bend it anywhere near that much, it creates more tension than I would like to have at the socket. I'm sure the wire eventually takes the shape you bend it to but it's going to be sticking way out no matter what you do. That's a problem if you are working with limited space.

I've called DJ tech support at least once before and the guy was pretty knowledgeable

Yeah, I've had good luck and not so good luck. All depends on who you get. Some of those guys are probably part time phone order takers with some training on the common questions customers have. I'm communicating with one of the dudes who is in their tutorial videos so I am certain he knows all there is to tell.

I'm pretty glad they are doing SOMETHING with the CAN cables, I found they didn't stay in the module very reliably (I zip tied them to the module to help hold the cables in), the cables are pretty flimsy with no boots to support the bend radius

LOL you will like the new cables then! Maybe I've had good luck since my modules have lain flat under the seat in the past. I never had the slightest problem with them coming loose. The new ones fit very snug in the port and they still have a latch.

Never knew there was a two wire. One of the things the guy told me is that the new cables "have four wires"

All of our latest CAN link cables are shielded, contain all four wires, have newer molded connectors that are manufactured with much more precision, and are much more reliable than the older style of cable.

He also mentions:
The only reason you might need an old style cable is if you are needing to connect a duel-channel Auto-tune module to a Dynojet Power Vision screen for a Harley Davidson.

Maybe that is the two wire cable.

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Last night I cut the ribs off of the shield on one end and started cutting away at the plug. After taking off about an eighth inch, you will discover that the whole bulky knob designed to be grasped with your fingers is not attached to the lead connector part. You can just tear it off and voila--you have the old style of plug but is about 1/8" longer which is not bad. DO NOT slice away at it too low or you will probably cut off some insulation from the inner wires. You can cut a little and just tear it off the rest of the way. Won't damage a thing. If necessary, I guess you could make a careful cut lengthwise and tear the outer insulator off about 1 inch then snip it all around with a scissors so the inner wires do not get cut. That would give you the flexible neck you can bend any angle you want almost as sharply as desired. The latch is a part of the lead connector, not the shield so the plug will still lock. There is even a small ridge opposite of the latch to grip with your finger while pulling and unlocking. The old plug had that too. To top it off, the plug still fits the port real snug. Just no bulky shield with limited bending radius. I can use this. Thinking about returning the cables DJ sent. After all, they are not what I special ordered even if they are the right cables. I'm a little less bitchy about it now though after hearing someone I know tell me the old cables can come loose. I see why they are a bit resistant about agreeing that I use the old cables. Never would have ordered them if I knew I could mod the new style one though.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/2/2017 @ 9:15 PM *

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The new style cable also has larger gauge wires inside as far as I can see but I didn't find it necessary to remove any outer insulator. I can just see part of a couple wires where they separate and go to the contacts and it definitely looks bigger. I sliced a little spot of rubber off the grey wire by accident but didn't cut the strands at all. I put a little RTV over it. Should be fine.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/2/2017 @ 9:20 PM *

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Here's a closeup of the the new style of CAN cable with one plug having the shield removed. Doesn't look much different but it does give a bit more flexibility for bending a sharp radius. Remove a half inch of outer insulation and it should be almost as bendable as the old style of cable. The lock is not a part of the shield so that will keep the plug in in the port. There's a small ridge on the opposite side of the lock for gripping with your thumb when you unlock and pull the cable out.

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