They may bring out a rep from the factory USA. Either way, it's probably the MM needing a download flash or some upgrade flashit.

Hehe, no I think, well I hope anyway, it was just a weak fuse that let go. Will try to get out tomorrow morning on the RSV4 and give it a proper thrashing and see if it holds up. If it pops again it's going back to the dealer until they can pull a rabbit out of their hat and figure it out.

Awesome Kruz...ya got er!
"For Grn's bike that thing keeps popping out of gear"...no.It's never popped out of gear.8k or so on that trans. Never been jammed into gear.Never fell on the shifter.(or fallen period).No slivers of anything in the drained oil.Nada.No chips,nuthin.I think I've ridden her as designed.I'm so tempted to pull that side case and look,but then if the gasket gets screwed up,I don't want it leaking riding to the shop.
Honestly I can't imagine a fork snapping off or something.Plus there was zero noise when I made the shift into 6th and it wasn't havin it.No weird feel in the pedal.It simply quit clicking in.All other gears fine shifting).
This bike model did have a recall reflash to correct shift times and such last year.But it wasn't forks that were breaking,but gears.I never had any of the 'recall' symptoms on mine,so I left it alone.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/8/2022 @ 7:47 PM *

Hey Grn, thanks, yeah my sexy baby is back up and running and it turned out be super simple, never forget the basics as Hub might say!

Got my self all riled up over nothing! I still don't know why the fuse let go but it could have been a bad batch of fuses, it didn't smoke, burn, arc or melt like there was excessive current, it looked like it just kind vibrat!ed and hairline cracked the section where it gets really narrow. Instead of a visual inspection, if I'd ohmed it out I would have caught it earlier, live and learn.

On your deal, it sounds like there may have been some kind of recall on the gearbox? Is it a cassette style, quick change gearbox like on the ZX-10R, y'know the type you can change the gear set out without having to split the engine cases apart? On those you will need to just remove the clutch cover and clutch to get at the transmission and shift mechanism with the engine still in the frame. The old non-cassette style requires removing the entire engine and splitting the cases, a big job!

What did the recall say, I think I would start there especially since KHI typically foots the entire bill parts and labor for the recalls?

Shift pawl ratchet type mechanism, usually bullet proof unless you drop the bike on the left side onto the shift lever and then you can crack the pawl and it never shifts right again, ask me how I know lol!

If it will shift into gears 1-5 but not 6, the pawl is probably OK but the pin for 6th gear on the end of the shift drum may be broken or missing.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/8/2022 @ 8:24 PM *

You could have either a bent shift fork for 6th gear or a burr in the machined groove for 6th or the follower pin might be missing on the shift fork. Here's a picture showing the entire setup.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/8/2022 @ 8:30 PM *

Is this the recall on your machine?

Your text to link here...

Grn, I have been thinking about your problem and I'm leaning toward the shift pawl not engaging the pin for 6th gear on the end of the shift drum.

Not sure how that pin is attached, welded or press fit? I'm thinking a press fit and the pin could have come loose. The only other explanation is you bent the shift fork for 6th gear.

Nothing else is making any sense but if you have been gentle on your gearbox, a bent shift fork is unlikely. The only way to know for sure is to pop that clutch cover off and have a look at the pawl mechanism.

Put the bike on a stand and have someone rotate the back wheel as you run up through the gears.

If the 6th gear pin is missing on the shift drum, it will be obvious. If that is good, it's internal I'm afraid and plan B is bent shift fork/case split.

The recall is software related to 4th and 5th gear only, not 6th.

Hub I think will concur with my analysis of the situation. Best of luck to you my friend!

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/9/2022 @ 6:20 AM *

Yeah.We'll see.These Kawasaki transmissions for the H2 family have been around for a while.NEVER have I heard of one NOT shifting into 6th.
And it's not that reflash recall thing.My situation is totally different.Anything in the lower case area in there is gonna wind up in the pan,right?Nah,not gonna deal with that right now.

"If the 6th gear pin is missing on the shift drum, it will be obvious."...where is this pin?Looking at the diagrams of mine,I'm not seein any pins in there anywhere.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/9/2022 @ 9:43 AM *

That recall was not for what mine is doing.

Agreed Grn, the recall is not what is causing your problem, from what I can tell, the recall fixes damaging the 4th and 5th gears from a transmission overspeed.

Looks like P/N 13145 from the IPC for your machine. Not a very clear view but it looks like those are the pins on the outboard side of the cam, two ar visible. The neutral detent is at the top of the cam.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 7/9/2022 @ 5:29 PM *

WATThell kind of bikes are you buying, or is it vibe me another bike? A com line barely touching, now a fuse split so close, it jumps the current just so much?

What was the transition to, or the light bulb lit up, pull over, let me check the fuse one more time? Or the shop came out, went right to it scenario. Did you mention that to the other downed ape with a similar problem?

Typical cheapasshit on those bikes. Crap chinese made, not BUSS quality? They use the same computer tower connectors for the winkers? When I saw that, it was either for weight or have to runs those so selling the bike is not to break even point. More like, take this, we're pissing away the better connectors on our racing budget.

Like I said, enjoy the bike. It's all that and more. Speaking about transmissions, that was some tight, precise shifting on the Tuono, probably the same on the V4.

Signed,
It's always something simple

WATThell kind of bikes are you buying, or is it vibe me another bike? A com line barely touching, now a fuse split so close, it jumps the current just so much?

What was the transition to, or the light bulb lit up, pull over, let me check the fuse one more time? Or the shop came out, went right to it scenario. Did you mention that to the other downed ape with a similar problem?

Typical cheapasshit on those bikes. Crap chinese made, not BUSS quality? They use the same computer tower connectors for the winkers? When I saw that, it was either for weight or have to runs those so selling the bike is not to break even point. More like, take this, we're pissing away the better connectors on our racing budget.

Like I said, enjoy the bike. It's all that and more. Speaking about transmissions, that was some tight, precise shifting on the Tuono, probably the same on the V4.

Signed,
It's always something simple

Hub has spoken!

True dat Hubmeister, looking back with 20/20 hindsight, you always wonder why you didn't see it right out of the chute.

You're right Hub, enjoy the ride, they are fantastic machines. I had it out this morning and the power, handling and brakes are immense, only bike I own that makes my ZX-14 feel pokey.

I was chasing a tuned, 2019 Ducati V4S with Termignoni exhaust and mappis flash, I'm still breaking my RSV4 in and he had nothing for me, open the throttle and watch his back tire get big!

Have a code spitting the torque plate? I'm thinking this is a sonic exploiter catching the grunt out of the corners thus the subthrottle, torque-plate, for a better name?

Or, I want to change the exhaust and what do I do with this?
Or, Double you dee forty spray, or PB Blaster, or Sea foam spray to loosen it up, it's hanging up?
Or, the european hack of the stepper motor is a plug-in like a TRE-type called TTTP? Trick The Torque Plate with this dongle and it snuffs out the light fandango at the dash?

You are cracking me up again Hubster, you nailed it with answer (B)

"Or, I want to change the exhaust and what do I do with this?"

I left the servo motor in place but removed the exhaust valve cables. This was a full KAT delete so essentially a full system and it was running very lean afterwards.

Bought the UpMap from Gabro Racing in Italy and reflashed the ECU myself with their Akra custom RACE map and my cell phone.

Runs like a raped baboon now!

Up Map is pretty cool, you reflash using their Bluetooth device and your Android or Iphone, no more having to call Jeffo or mess with Power Commander.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 12/1/2022 @ 10:55 AM *

As a added bonus you get with the RACE Map is the Euro spec in-fairing turn signals activated. Mirror mounted US spec turn signals are now redundant.

Am at two duc sites, scoping out the failures mechanically and electrically. I was working with a member who went that route and his code light for the 'grunt plate' showed up, having a dongle or whatever hack delete he installed. Hasn't responded with an answer.

So the guess was(C)for the stepper motor disable. And boy, did you disable.

Thanks Hubster, stepper motor disabled but still on there as dead weight. You notice in the RACE Map description you can now safely remove the exhaust servo valve, PAIR, lambda sensors, charcoal canister etc. Operating in the open loop now I figure? Anyway it runs so much better without Euro 5 strangling it, only thing that would have been better was a custom $100 dial-a-tune mappis from Jeffo .....