Hi Everyone, I have not posted in a few years because everything has been really smooth and I have not been modifying. Anyways my bike quit working on my right side turn signals. The blinker notification and both bulbs no longer function. I did not expect it to be a bulb because a burnt bulb should just be a faster blink and one out, but that is not happening. So yesterday I spent about 1.5 hours tearing into the bike to hopefully find a loose wire or something. I could not find anything wrong. This is really dangerous and so I am wondering if this has happened to anyone on our bike? The bike's wiring is mostly stock. At one point it had LEDs but I soldered the wires back together when I put the stock signals back on. Again I tested all of those connections yesterday and everything was really tight. No voltage is going to the terminals where the bulbs connect.

Please let me know.
Thanks!

* Last updated by: viperkillertt on 6/25/2015 @ 5:34 PM *

Winker relay; under the seat? Push the hazard switch so all light up, see if those go on, but I think it's one wire down... over to the winker... like you said, one bulb out the other winks faster, so down wire that hooks up both front and rear.

Winker Switch - Test light to -ground, test light +prong to the back of the connectors, probe until you see one wire begin to be on with power. Look at that wire, then match the winker wire gray-R and green-L, where black/yellow are the grounds.

So at the winker switch, Gray you want power when the switch is turned to right-wink. This should come on, the relay wire-Orange should be hot to the switch. Turn L the connection goes to the orange wire. Turn R the connector touches the orange wire again, down to the relay, the heat bends the tab, the winker turn off, the tab cools and bends back onto the contact, winks again when heated, bends off the relay post.

Now, jump a wire at the winker switch from orange to green. This makes the left winker side hot = Bad switch, no contact with the thumb switch, but will make contact via jump the wire from orange to green.

Green is wired to the rear wink and front wink. The switch moves and makes contact with +orange+ so orange has to be hot, which it is for the right switch.

Hi Hub,
As I mentioned, that is not happening. All of the lights are out on one side. Nothing blinks when I try the hazzard or turn signal. I could not completely follow what you were saying.

hi viperkillertt. Probably if you go through this one step at a time, you will find it easier to follow. You might have questions already at step 1. I know I would. This will prolly take a few days but I'm sure you will get it.

Winker relay: Under the seat, left frame rail, turn key on, turn right winker on, listen to the relay click so your ear goes to it if not the visual. With a needle nose, remove the relay, touch the wire harness side, key on, with the needle nose or two tiny screwdrivers in the female prongs and X touch the prongs with the driver shafts touching, if not, find a piece of wire, jam the copper stands into each prong... This shows if the relay is junk, the 4 winkers all light up, push the hazard on so this orange wire at the relay goes hot thru all 4 winkers when the hazard connects all fore and aft lights. However, this now shows only the right side being on would be your variable that orange is hot up to the switch. Then there is a switch problem that the left is not being connected by either the hazard connecting the left two wires in the switch, debris on the left switch contacts, ect.

Switch: Here is where we want a test light, a homemade bulb soldered to wires and alligator clips at the other end of the wires, etc. Here at the switch, we want to see if key on, there is power to the orange wire at the switch. So backprobe at the switch connectors the orange wire. The point we want is to go back to the relay, know we have the bulb or test probe lighting that orange wire, which shows with key on, there is current to the orange wire at the winker relay. Hot into the relay comes from the key switch. This is now hot out the orange wire with the relay about to connect both, ect. So if we probe the switch connector first, we know hot is up to the connector we backprobe the switch side, not the main wire harness side. Why? We kill two birds is the male/fe pins have integrity and pass current to the connector side.

Switch harness: Now we are at the switch itself, off the handlebar, ect. This is where the real test light with the point at the end of the handle; can move into the soldered orange wire and stab that, key on, does it light at the orange/solder end? Do we see how we moved, which was to follow the flow from orange-winker relay to connector male/fe to orange-solder end at the switch is from A to B are those connections.

Wire IN [jobber is the switch] and wire OUT: We already know we have the orange to the right switch and the winker works, yes? No power to left side fore and aft. No hazard when all are connected, right? So here I should have:

1. Relay ~ When I connect both wires from the winker relay, one wire is hot (O/G = orange-green), one goes to the switch is Orange. From key switch (O/G) is the one prong on the relay. Orange goes up to the switch from the relay.
a. We know O/G is hot or no right wink, correct?
b. We know O is headed up to the switch, it's hot by the needlenose/remote wire is jumped and overrides the <relay.
c. Is it the relay? No, I doubt it, your ear went to turning the right winker on, get it, you heard power, the relay working, ect up to the switch, right?

2. Connectors ~ This is the next break in the orange wire is the end of the connector male/fe at the end of this wire. We now jump over to the other side of the connector and check these intersects is Orange is good to go up to this point now is the connector side of the switch.

3. Switch ~ Back to the end of the orange wire is at the soldered end is we know this has to be hot for the right switch to work. How could we have both winker wires out on the left side, if it narrows up to here is orange flips to GRAY-Right, then flips to GREEN-Left is that thumb toggle. Now, here is where we are back to the switch at its connectors again. Same as checking for fe/male prongs, we flip to the other side of the connector so we know the male/fe has current flow at the OUT to GREEN-Left wire. How can we know this works? We do the exact same thing to GRAY wire, turn winker to right, watch test light turn on at the gray wire at the connector. We do not even need to remove the switch at all, look at how you can probe at the connectors going up and then going out.

Conclusion? You did not need to remove anything but to backprobe with a test light, right? Tested out at the connectors is where I'd start with the right tool.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=JN.mTUp%2bFXJTNdYzMsuHmXweQ&pid=15.1&P=0

Thank you Hub, that was a clearer explanation. I will check it out. Thank you.

YW.

So at the connector switch ends, I may have power out to the green wire; from switch-soldered end to end of wire and the fe/male end or that male/fe end? But no current at the male/fe end from that wire out to the winker green wire at the left winker.

WD40 into the switch [not removed yet] is to break any green crap that makes the arc, makes a magnetic field, brings in the impurities from the air, turns green giant and no no current from that green end of the wire, be it male or female, both have that magnetic move thru it, over it, bumping every molly getting thru and there it stops right there gone green.

And if the connector is disconnected, you look at a lot of green at the male/fe ends, dip that connector in vinegar, dip in fresh water to remove or dilute the vinny, dip the other connector end in the vinny, clean with more water dip, reconnect, turn the left switch on.

So first test is we have yet to remove anything by a disconnect or switch splitting in half is the test prob jump for power.

Say we have power out the switch wire and down to the connector. We now find no power there on the other side of the switch's connector is do the 'vinny-dip-deal.'

Say the switch has no joy at spraying off the green buildup, we are now splitting the switch to see if the solder is not holding the green wire on the switch panel so when green and orange meet on the lever moving over the brass to brass and the switch ball lands there to make connections at orange to green, see how we have a switch wire off the tiny wire plate?

Say we now run a hot wire to the main wire harness where the switch connects to. All we do is hot the one prong of the green wire, we now see both front and rear turn signal lights working, it's not the harness, or winker wires.

Say I keep thinking things out, I can now remove the main left switch, use my test light needle to stab the green male/fe prong, turn the left switch on, see if the test light goes on.

Say I run that hot wire to the main wire connector side, I found both light go on, see how I can test with everything connected is the one test. Then, be careful about one main wire off the hot side of the battery and light the fore and aft winkers and see there is no problem there.

See it pan out testing a few ways of looking at it?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/25/2015 @ 9:35 PM *

It was really simple. The switch was bad. It took me over a month to finally order it but I got it put on tonight. The contacts were completely corroded. Simple 25 dollar ebay fix :) Because it was just dead all the sudden I did not expect it to be that simple. I would have expected it to work intermittently for a while. I was wrong. All fixed :)