I just brought my bike back from the dead and also installed a PCV. It is mapped with a dyno map that had listed
stock muffler or aftermarket, stock exhaust, flies out....which is my bike.
It is running great but I don't see any performance gain?
Is that normal?
Plus a large amount of the boxes show negatives so it is actually robbing fuel in those areas.
Is three a way to get this bike moving without a dyno? or changing the exhaust.
I got a 16t sprocket but heard they can be noisy.
any cheap mods I should look for?

thanks
Joel

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It is running great but I don't see any performance gain?
Is that normal?

I'm afraid so. People rave about mapping if the topic comes up. Some swear it made a huge positive change. My experience has been it matters very little if the bike is running well. If there are some minor flaws in the way the engine runs, tuning can smooth those out and that's the main advantage I can notice. Other than that, I like knowing my engine is safe and making the most power it can.

Plus a large amount of the boxes show negatives so it is actually robbing fuel in those areas.

Your ideal AFR is 13.1~13.2 and your stock AFR is around 12.5. Stock mapping is rich. Cutting fuel makes more hp and It also burns less gas.

Is three a way to get this bike moving without a dyno? or changing the exhaust.

You mean like make it faster without tuning or full system? Sure, turbo or nitrous.

I got a 16t sprocket but heard they can be noisy.

I heard that to and also they wear faster and probably harder on the chain. That's the main reason I stuck with 17T up front.

any cheap mods I should look for?

A 45T rear sprocket.

190/55 tire or 200/50 if they make that size. A 200/55 might not fit behind the swing arm if you have very little chain stretch.

Remove all unnecessary parts.

Those will all make a palpable dif.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eigG5TocLQ

Key wording to listen to... bottom end torque is lost we fiddlefuck, fiddlefuck around with the box stocker.

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I haven't noticed any bottom end loss of power. If there's any, it's so small it doesn't matter for that range. If you're sport riding or racing, you aren't running below 3500 rpm ever and usually significantly higher. I've got more than enough low end grunt to pull me out of a tight spot in traffic at low rpm. If you need to use the clutch to zing up the r's, it's right there on the left.

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I will test my tune against stock fueling when I get my map switch in. It should be interesting to see if I can tell the difference.

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I am going to remove the map and give it a few hundred miles....seems like the map from DJ has flat spots early in the rpm range of each gear. It just doesn't seem to pull hard, then pulls hard, then flat again at higher rpm. weird?

Joel

wheel lift is gone in second gears so I know something is up.

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You're cheapest mod to liven up the bike would be throwing in a larger rear sprocket (not just 1 or 2 teeth), it will lower your top speed (which for the most part isn't a big deal) but will dramatically increase the acceleration of the bike with the lower gear ratio. Keep in mind this will throw off the speedometer as well as possibly the fuel and timing maps (not really sure here on that one...)

Rook, I think he would need to go supercharger and not a turbo since a turbo is technically a different exhaust system.

Thanks nightmare.....I think if you saw my monthly net you would know I ain't going the turbo/nitro/supercharger route.

I do like the idea of the rear sprocket but not until September 3rd when I get paid next.

I got a 16t for up front that I am going to try once my torque wrench ans 27mm deep socket arrives. Hopefully it will not be too noisy. I can wait until my stock chain wears out to change everything if I like it.

I used Rook's map and it woke up my bike in the low end more than the DJ one did. Seems like it still has a flat spot in the 6k range but I didn't do enough runs to verify anything.

Love wrenching on this bike, but it is hell on the fairing rubber nut holders....I keep popping them out. I ordered 25 from germany via ebay for 24 bucks.....so I will be good for a while.....

Joel

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"then flat again at higher rpm. weird?"..this motorcycle has a programmed 'safe setting' with the throttle plates.From the factory.The PCV cannot change that.It's in the ECU...the secondaries start closing in higher rpms(upper midrange).That's probably what you're feeling.You can remove those,OR flash them to stay opening.

I haven't ridden it enough today to know for sure....just seemed like the wheel was gonna lift in second gear but it didn't keep pulling as hard.

My flies are gone and I had to drill the last screw out, so they ain't coming back!

I don't find this bike hard to drive at all in parking lots....but then I am used to feathering the clutch from my VFR800.....It didn't pull real hard but it had very short 1st and 2nd gears so it would buck on you if you weren't careful on the throttle. I fixed that by going up a tooth on the front.

I am waiting for a rain day to go down a tooth on the front sprocket on this bike. I road that VFR800 to the dealer to sell for me.....it was like riding a scooter after being on a real bike.....I won't ever go back.

Joel

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Love wrenching on this bike, but it is hell on the fairing rubber nut holders....I keep popping them out.

I think you're tightening the screws way too much. All you gotta do with well nut screws is Tighten until the rubber leave starts to expand. It's not much more than finger tight. The rubber absorbs vibes and keeps tension on the screw. That keeps it from rattling loose. The ones at the peak of the fuel tank cover will vibrate out so you can tighten those a couple turns more. A you know, they will split the well nut if you tighten them a lot and then you have a problem.

Are you sure you are putting the wellnuts in right? The rubber flange of the well nut goes between the the overlaps in the fairings, not on the outside right under the screw head.

You are a MORE is better kinda guy, I can tell. I'm the same way. Gotta keep that in check. Especially when tightening screws in aluminum parts and plastic. More is worse sometimes. You got the right bike for your personality though. Definitely do use a torque wrench. I always do and I still set it about 30% low unless it is something in the engine or something I know rattles loose. Torquing is an art.

I used Rook's map and it woke up my bike in the low end more than the DJ one did. Seems like it still has a flat spot in the 6k range

Interesting. It might be mostly due to the flies out fueling--since you have your flies out. Yours flies closed fueling goes to 6000 rpm so that may be why it feels a little flat at that rpm. It would be interesting to see what happens to the AFR at that point. If it is going lean, I would sure not rev it higher than that. It's all a rough guess but my exhaust flows more than yours so that tends to require more fuel. But my target AFR is leaner than stock and that requires reduction in fuel. It might balance off to a safe AFR for you with your stock exhaust but probably richer than 13.1 Probably. We don't know without an AFR gauge.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/14/2018 @ 10:41 AM *

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Rook, I think he would need to go supercharger and not a turbo since a turbo is technically a different exhaust system.

I'm going to have one someday.

chewy, you can buy a used turbo for about as much as a really nice brand new full system.

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"not on the outside right under the screw head".lol.Now THAT I gotta see;)

"Well I didn't have any, and the ones I over tightened disappeared out the back of the hole".That's why they're called 'well nuts'.They really wanted to name em 'well SHIT'.That's what I always say when I lose one..'out the back'lol.Yer pushing too hard when ya screw that screw in there.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/14/2018 @ 5:14 PM *

Similiar here
they didnt have my exact set-up, i picked something close, same year,,then later when i changed to the muzzys full map,, it was a slight improvement

Getting ecu flash made a difference

Yes you can have the bike on both front and rear stands then remove both wheels, I do this every time I get the tires changed. $50 is a pretty good deal, I think I pay something like $70 for both tires to be swapped, mounted & balanced as well as disposing of the old ones.

As for stands, I have a front head stand (uses a pin and lifts the bike up using the hole under the steering stem) which is a LOT cheaper than the really nice lifts some of the other guys posted above. The clearance is VERY close for the upper cowl and I remove the front fender before lifting the bike but other than that it works like a charm. I don't know the brand as I bought it around 10 years ago for my ZX9.

As for your living and financial condition, you do what you need to do in order to live a happy and fulfilling life, everyone needs something that they enjoy in their life and there are far worse things to spend money on than a motorcycle which is at least useful for more than making you smile. At the end of the day how you spend your money and where you life is pretty much no one's business so who cares what they think?

front head stand with pins catching the holes under the stems
rear stand with forks, catching the spools on the swingarm

Oh yeah...I did forget about my pit bull front stem stand!Yep...that'll work fine.

I was gonna take your map and zero everything below 3k rpms and see if I get the best of both maps.

You can do that. I had a lag from the flies in stock fueling but you don't seem to be feeling that. Could be different bikes, different exhausts...? Could be the 13.1 AFR throughout the map. Romans said rich for best torque, lean for best hp.

Yes you can have the bike on both front and rear stands then remove both wheels, I do this every time I get the tires changed.

I do the same thing but always break all the bolts loose with the tires on the ground.

How the hell are they getting their numbers for their maps if they aren't using a dyno to get them?

They recommend Autotuning for about 12.5 and that is probably what their target AFR is in their maps. Open the target AFR table and have a look. They don't want anyone saying they are responsible for burning out a motor by tuning too lean.

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Islandninja that is some exhaust you got there.

Nassert Beet titanium full system, made in Japan
came with the bike, 2013 special edition
... does the job!