So I’m in the process of installing my Ignition Module to my PCV to setup Launch Control and so far...I’ve been unsuccessful.

I have made all the connections to the OEM wiring and hooked the ground up for the IM. I then ran the white wire to terminal #1 on the PCV and the black/white wire to terminal #4 of the PCV. Lastly I ran my black clutch wire to input #2 which is terminal #5 on the IM. I then setup everything in Dynojet software by syncing the IM, then turning on launch control, set it to 3500 RPM and hit ok. Now the bike will rev to 3500 but it does this with or without the clutch pulled in.

I’m thinking the clutch switch or relay in the ecu may have gone bad. Before I dive into that potential mess, can anyone verify I’ve hooked everything up correctly or point me to other potential issues?

TIA!

Rook might chime in. Only way to know the rev is the clutch switch is to remove the pc out of the loop and note the rpm went away, it's not the switch but maybe your wiring. PC instructions on line on the pc website, right? Unless your booklet with the shifter is being used, might be the software as well. Process of elimination.

1. Remove unit or disable via wires = Not the switch.
2. Wire combo crossed.
3. Software glitch via pc.

Maybe techline can research the symptom and address by their archives.

Drk, I had a second look at your description of your install. I'm sure your clutch switch is working fine and you have that wire tapped into the OEM clutch switch as it should be. I'm a little surprised your launch rev limiter did anything at all. Just skip to the posts below this.

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I have yet to set mine up but what I recall is that the launch control is in effect when the circuit is closed. The circuit is closed when the clutch switch grounds. The clutch switch grounds when the clutch lever is pulled.

The clutch switch is supposed to be so the starter will not turn while the transmission is in gear unless the clutch lever is pulled. Does the bike start while in gear without pulling the clutch? Careful when you test that one out! Be ready to grab the clutch! If the starter doesn't turn when you hit the start button with he bike in gear and clutch lever released, the clutch switch is working as intended / OEM.

So your PC5/IM thinks the clutch lever is pulled all the time? My first guess is that maybe the pin in your clutch switch IS stuck closed. DO you ever start in gear? If you start in N all the time like I do, the pin might be stuck and you would never know it. The bike would behave normally using the clutch to shift but it would take off into a wall or something if you started it in gear! If the clutch switch pin were to be stuck in, it would also activate launch control at all times. Whatever rpm you set launch control for is where the ignition cut happens cluch lever pulled or not...in all gears and I suppose in N too...if the clutch switch pin is stuck.

With bike off:
Put ear down by clutch lever.
Pull clutch lever. You should hear the tiniest "plink" like Horton Hears a Who. TINY. plink.
No plink, no clutch switch closing. No clutch switch closing:

A)is clutch switch pin stuck in?
B) is clutch switch pin broken off, worn down or otherwise not contacting or not pushed in far enough by the adjoining surface of the lever that's supposed to push pin in?
C) is clutch fluid pressure low, not allowing lever to fully release clutch switch pin or is clutch lever throw set too small thereby keeping tension on the clutch switch pin?
D) ? something else.

If A) there's your launch control problem.
If B) better replace the clutch switch and you still got your launch control problem to figure out.
If C) bleed clutch.
If D).....? depends what that something else is. More info.

So let's say you do hear your little plink when you pull the clutch lever in. Then there should be no ground when the lever is released and I believe you should hear another little plink when you do release the clutch lever slowly. Launch control should be inactive with clutch lever released because there is no power going to ground from the clutch switch, switch is open. With lever released, clutch switch OEM wire is dead and wire positapped from clutch switch OEM wire to PC5 input SHOULD also be dead. No ground made to PC5 input, launch control inactive.

A) Does wire positapped from clutch switch OEM wire to PC5 input somehow have power in it all the time? That would do it. That power would ground to PC5 constantly and you would have perpetual launch control being there is no switch in the circuit to cut the power to ground in PC5 input.

-Are you sure you have the clutch switch OEM wire positapped at the grounding end? That is behind the clutch switch to the rear of the bike....seems unlikely you could have positapped anywhere except the grounding end of the clutch switch OEM wire but have a look. Should be a black OEM wire from clutch switch, maybe you will see one grey or silver mark on it. If the clutch switch is somehow tapped into at the positive (incoming) side, that is your problem, you have power in that wire all the time and it is grounding to the PC5 all the time so you have launch control activated all the time.

- Remove PC5 launch control wire from input. Connect red clip on test light to loose end of launch control wire. Connect black clip of test light to battery (-) terminal, battery ground screw on frame outside battery box or any reliable ground. I used a jumper wire to reach the battery ground screw on frame. Turn ignition key ON.

Test light comes on, you have power in that wire all the time and you shouldn't.

Test light doesn't come on, GOOD! There is no power and there should not be.

Pull clutch lever.
--Test light comes on, GOOD. Your connection from the clutch switch OEM wire is good.
--Test light does not come on, start bike in N. Having the ignition ON should be sufficient but might as well try with engine running just to be thorough.

-----Engine running, test light should come on when clutch lever is pulled.

-----If test light is on with clutch lever released, you have constant power in the wire that goes to the PC5 input and you should not.

--Pull clutch lever and put in gear just for kicks. Test light should have come on as soon as you pulled clutch lever but why not try it just to see what happens?
------If test light is on with engine running and before you put transmission in gear, you have costant power and this you should not have. Only with clutch lever pulled.

- Check that the wire which is positapped from the grounding end of the clutch switch OEM wire is in fact connected to the correct input of the PC5. This is the third hole from the main harness going into the PC5. Look at the top illustration in the IM instructions.

EVERYTHING OK with the connections between the clutch switch OEM wire and the PC5? Clutch switch works as it should?

The only other thing would be the connections between the IM harness to the PC5.

White wire from the IM harness goes to input 1. PC5 input 1 is farthest hole from the main harness of the PC5. You couldn't have screwed that one up.

Black/white wire from IM harness goes to input 5 of the PC5, third hole from PC5 main harness. In the IM instructions, the illustration appears as though the black/white wire from the IM main harness is connected to input 4. The farthest hole in PC5 from the PC5 main harness is input 1, next hole closer to main harness is input 2, next hole closer is input 3, next hole is input 4 (that's the wrong hole) and the next hole is input 5 (that's the right hole!). Shame on DJ for not fixing this illustration even after eleven years. If you're in input 4 of the PC5, that I believe, is just a digital ground. It does not connect with any of the system functions. I suppose it's just there if you have something digital that you want to ground there like an LED maybe? I asked about it. Can't remember if DJ gave the A-OK on using that for an LED but I think not. I sure would't hook up just anything in those ground inputs or you could fry the module.

Does that help? If not, more info. Chris Kelley is the guy at DJ to talk with if you can't figure this out. The normal techs have been helpful in the past but I got the impression I wasn't always getting the exact info and also, they seem to be under time demands. Chris Kelley knows everything.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2021 @ 1:18 PM *

I then ran the white wire to terminal #1 on the PCV and the black/white wire to terminal #4 of the PCV.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2021 @ 12:51 PM *

Lastly I ran my black clutch wire to input #2 which is terminal #5 on the IM.

Don't know where you're coming from with Input 2 on the PC5.

The wire you have positapped from the outgoing/ground side of the clutch switch OEM wire should go to input 5 on the IM. They do not label the inputs with numbers in the IM owners guide. They do label them according to what function they connect to. Third hole from the main harness on the IM is the LAUNCH CONTROL. If you count from the farthest hole from the IM main harness, yup, that's 5th hole. Illustration, page 1 of Ignition Module owners guide. Doofusses still have a picture of the PC5 there even though they are talking about the IM!! Same case on both modules but I wonder if they could make this a little more confusing? How many years has this been in print? Take your damn phone and get a picture of an Ignition Module if you want to show a picture of an ignition module. Those DJ people! I tell ya-

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2021 @ 12:55 PM *

I'd post pictures but my pic briefcase is so full I can't without some major bandwidth which I do not have anymore.

http://aspdotnetstorefront.dynojet.com/Document/1261

There goes my afternoon chasing that red herring. Off to work to get computers set up for he kiddies! on a Sunday.

So problem solved, drk?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2021 @ 1:14 PM *

One more thing, Drk, I have recently been told on the busa forum that you shouldn't use the clutch to shift while launch control active. Use only to take off. This was related to a question I had about clutch shifting above the set launch limit. Won't that make your rpm dip? Will that actually slow you down in a race? The answer was don't use the clutch or it will be really hard on the transmission. Still need to find out more about that. I guess mabe I can see that if your engine and wheel are moving at the normal speeds and then all the sudden there's a 200 rpm difference from pulling the clutch a half second on top of the normal reduction in rpm when hitting the next gear ---maybe? Just seemed kind of crazy because I was intending to start out with like a 3000 rpm launch limit like you because I never did it before. Then you grab the clutch from 1 to 2 (I always do even though I have a quickshifter) and the rev limiter comes on while you're rolling out of the gas???? WHat do you think?

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2021 @ 1:27 PM *

--also downshifting. I might downshift at some pretty high rpms. You pull the lever, you can't blip higher because the limiter comes on. I planned to put a toggle switch in that wire going to the PC5 input so I could disable launch control on the fly. DJ said should be fine although they didn't know why I would want to do that. I guess they only upshift hard.

Rook, thank you so much for reviewing this information! You honestly helped a ton, although I'm still having issues.

So I went back over ALL of my wiring and it appears I had messed up a few things, some due to staring at this for too long and some cause of Dynojet's poor instructions. At the end of the day though, I wired everything up like this (I uploaded a layout, hopefully it shows up) which should match what you were telling me to do:

I then opened up PCV software and verified everything was set, to what I believe is correct (please let me know if I've yet again messed up something lol). I've attached screenshots of my screen.

I've tried everything imaginable and the ONLY way I've gotten it to work is while the bike is running I unhook the T connector from the black OEM wire and then connect it to the black/red OEM wire or vice versa (I was desperate lol). From there the bike will only rev to 3500 rpm's with or without the clutch being pulled in... So yay it works!...albeit too much.

I'm honestly starting to wonder if one of the boxes is messed up or something because I can't see where an issue is with the wiring at this point.

Last complaint, I swear, Dynojet really needs to add an option to the screen that shows if the LC switch is open/closed instead of me having to rev the crap out of the bike every time.

My bad, didn't realize those photos would be so zoomed out. I made close ups of the Dynojet screens.

One more thing, Drk, I have recently been told on the busa forum that you shouldn't use the clutch to shift while launch control active.

I've heard that as well. Initially I planned to just use my laptop to turn on/off the LC when I go to the track. While it would work and overall is easy enough to do, I eventually decided I would plan on doing just what you mentioned, add a switch that I can use to turn on/off LC. (assuming I can get the stupid thing to work first, of course lmao)

However, I do have a bit of concerns with the switch for my future plans. The next mod I'm doing to the bike is adding an air shifter. I'm starting to become concerned with adding anything else to this though seeing as the LC, a setup the device should do with relatively little configuration, has been a complete nightmare. I'll probably still try it out and hope for the best but as finicky as this thing has been, I may just use the laptop setup until I get a bit brave again lol.

OK now I see where you're coming from saying input 2 is hole #5. It is input #2 but the hole for that circuit is the 5th hole from the right.

Looks to me like you have this wired up exactly as described in the IM instructions.

I can't see anything wrong with your settings either. The only thing is your configurations for LC include 1.000 seconds to arm LC but if you don't have the use timer box checked, it shouldn't matter how many seconds is entered to arm LC. Arming LC doesn't seem to be the problem anyway. It's always armed right now, even when you don't want it!!

Maybe you somehow have the pit speed limiter activated and launch control at the same time? Sort of like the two got mixed together and the pit speed is set according to the rpm you set for LC instead of mph?

Time to call Chris Kelley. I would give the ordinary tech support guy a shot just to be polite but if we didn't figure this out, they might not either.

Please let us know what the ongoing story is. I'd like to hook launch control up on my bike this summer.

However, I do have a bit of concerns with the switch for my future plans. The next mod I'm doing to the bike is adding an air shifter. I'm starting to become concerned with adding anything else to this though seeing as the LC, a setup the device should do with relatively little configuration, has been a complete nightmare.

It's just a switch. If you can figure out the right way to get LC working, a simple switch is nothing. Like pulling a wire and putting it back in. Same thing. I would do like you are doing though, get it going as described in the instructions first before modding your mods! As for the air shifter, that should be not to much trouble as long as it's not an auto shifter. If it operates by a button on the handlebar, all you have as far as electronics are inline connectors to the stick coils and the power and ground for the shifter. There's probably configurations too but that is probably done on a module that is part of the shifter. I have a foot quickshifter now. I might go to an air shifter someday.

I'll say this LC is a little nightmare considering how simple it appears it should be. Hook up the wire from the clutch switcht, put the wires in the right hole, turn LC on in the software....what else could there be? My guess is the something unnoticeable about the software configuration is wrong.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2021 @ 8:23 PM *

Sort of like the two got mixed together and the pit speed is set according to the rpm you set for LC instead of mph?

I'm honestly not sure as the pit limiter isn't activated. Unless it's a bug in the software on the PCV that my current RPM for LC matches the pit limiter and creates an issue for the PCV...but that gets into a whole mess that I'll have to sort out with DJ and I'll let them stress over that one. I plan to call them first thing when they open to get this taken care of...or hopefully taken care of lol. I'll definitely update you on things and will probably end up putting together a DIY to keep it somewhere as finding LC info is TOUGH for these bikes.

I'd like to hook launch control up on my bike this summer.

Honestly, I'd researched a good bit on the IM and came across your posts regarding LC. I unfortunately didn't read through them for finer details and assumed you had figured it all out. IDK if I would have bought the IM if I had read through your posts and seeing you hadn't fully gotten it to work lol. One of those, if a guy like Rook can't figure this out, a rookie like me (this is my first bike with a Power Commander on it) wouldn't figure this out.

It's just a switch

I agree, it's just that I assumed that the LC was intended to be a simple install and setup...I've been at this for almost a week now and am only slightly better than I was when I started. So when these types of installs happen, they end up making me gun shy for awhile and I leave the bike alone for a few months until I've built up the courage (or ef it's lol)to tackle the next step.

that should be not to much trouble as long as it's not an auto shifter

I do plan on setting up the AS to use the PCV's quick shifter feature (versus adding another MDS module) and using the horn button to upshift, probably most or all of this upcoming season. I had read of some utilizing this same setup and upgrading to an autoshift setup. I admit I haven't read up much about the autoshift setups but it seemed like an interesting thing and that it was straight forward to use since our bikes already have shift lights on them to act as a signal for the autoshift to upshift. Should I avoid Autoshift?

I'll say this LC is a little nightmare considering how simple it appears it should be.

This X1,000,000+!!! I'd honestly debated on getting this or Launch Master. While Launch Master has better features overall (can adjust and turn it off with your cell), I opt'd for Dynojet as I assumed it would mesh well with the PCV and only needed a few extra wires... maaaaaaaan am I regretting that now!

Does anyone know (or could quickly check) what voltage you see at the clutch switch itself?

Also, can someone verify if the black clutch switch wire is on the terminal closest to the ignition switch or the further one? (Thinking someone may have messed with this wiring at some point...yay)

Should I avoid Autoshift?

Launch Master has better features overall (can adjust and turn it off with your cell), I opt'd for Dynojet as I assumed it would mesh well with the PCV and only needed a few extra wires... maaaaaaaan am I regretting that now!

You could look up the specced voltage of the clutch switch in the service manual. You never if know yours has that voltage unless you test it.

From what I recall, the clutch switch ground wire which you should tap is very easy to find. It routes from the switch down around the LH fork and over to the big rubber bell hanging there, then down to the main harness doesn't it? If you see another, that must be the positive wire to the clutch switch.

That's what I would have thought and I still think it's the case. There's something wrong about your setup and it's not something obvious.

That is what I'm beginning to think as well. So far I have been able to get it to work but only with the kickstand down. What I'm thinking is someone switched the clutch switch wires as a cheap/easy clutch bypass. I unfortunately realized that late last night and didn't want to be THAT neighbor testing his revs at 10pm lol. I went ahead and switched the clutch wires so black/red is closest to the ignition switch. HOPEFULLY that will work...

Btw, I really wish Kawasaki would label the colors AND terminal numbers at each device in their wiring schematics...may have saved me a boat load of time if my assumption is correct

I can see removing the clutch switch to reduce weight but I don't know why anyone would want to bypass the clutch switch. Why would you want to start the bike in gear without pulling the clutch lever? It's also very strange that the bike runs with the kickstand down. It should only run in N if the kickstand is down.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/9/2021 @ 11:09 PM *

drkreign, did you ever work out DJ launch control? i'm about to set mine up but i figured i'd try to reach out and avoid some missteps and ask. i know, this thread is years old.