I ran gentle until the first oil change (~400 miles) and then up to redline through the gears 5 times. From then on as often as my radar detector allows!!

I followed the the manual close but i did go about a 1000 rpms over the stated rpm break in. I take a highway to work so i would take it up to my rpm level than let it engine break about 2000 rpm's and then do it again. I would routinely keep the rpm's high in the city usually 2nd gear at low mph but still would roll up on speed and engine break down. My zx14 is relatively new. I have noticed that it seems to heat up quicker than my old gsxr 1000. Is this common?

I have noticed that it seems to heat up quicker than my old gsxr 1000. Is this common?

When new they do tend to run a bit hot, give it some time and the temps will come down. Mine runs only two bar above the C now and hits three when stopped in traffic so no problems.

Kruz

It would be interesting to see how expansion would show on the looking glass of our bikes if 4.5 L of oil was heated prior fill .

I came back from a ride last night and rechecked the oil level and now it appears to be over-serviced. When cold, I had added enough oil to bring the level to about 2/3 of the way between the lower and upper lines, hot she's way over the top mark. Guys, check your oil when the bike's up to temp.......duhhhh!

Kruz

Just read my owners manual about oil level inspection. They do not specify a hot check or cold check. They do say to run the engine a few minutes right after an oil change to saturate the filter and then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain down to the pan. This would seem to indicate a luke warm check. I don't know, I think having a reading way above the max line is normal for a hot engine full of hot oil.

One way to tell the proper level is to drain the bike, change the filter and then add the recomended 4.1 liters of oil. Run the engine a few minutes to fill the filter and then shut it off for 1 hour to be certain the the circulated oil has drained down to the crankcase. Then check your oil and note the air temperature. Be aware that if you check again in a few days and the outside temp is 20 degrees lower, the oil level will probabley look lower too. The most acurate readings will take place when the air temp is the same as the day you did the first check, obviously.

I know without a doubt that I filled the crankcase with only 1 large jug of Repsol race oil on the last change so that must have been 4 liters. That brought the level about dead center between the marks after I ran the motor and checked the level a few hours later.

I checked this same oil on a cold day and it looked like it was about at minmum so I added about 1/2 liter. Now when I check in the warmer weather, the level is at max. I really doubt there was any reason to add any after the initial fill. I'm actually thinking I should go out there and drain some out.

Rook

http://turbo.discovery.com/beyond/?playerId=245988601&categoryId=1418496841&lineupId=1454906888 Scroll down, look for the MV video.

This is my best MONGOPornPopizZippeRipper I bring to the table. Grabag an or a brew is brewing a break-in the 2-Step peer, you keep listening to others is I have the goods on the only step to watch. Too bad you didn't rip it first gear rippin the cableasy does it THE WOT CHEW SAY?

1. Engine assembly and test = Buy the bookuv lies and all that fallacyuuuuck ha yuckaaaaaahahahahha.

2. Oh, now ship it, throw it in the bike and fondle the key fob one more time = Beat me once is beat me twice is finish the song of, da fuckisswithegine? I am going to waste my wrinkles sand bagging a break kin is kin knee scraping first day out is ahuuuuuuughahahs...

3. Ah, ah, ahow did MV damage that bike, Charlie Horse IS?

4. Stroke Bit Me!

Data is correct day moon dough is Payupitit over, Charlie hoses blow it out year nose IS... Is that, even if I showed you with my own eyes, you would dispute it is one side of the argument steps the correct day over the moon is ask yourself if you are barking at the moon with the rest of the believers.

OR, MV does not know what they are doing. Tell them... Say, a full moon told you so, Count Drag You Lag.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/16/2009 @ 11:09 PM *

Uhhhh.......could someone translate that into English for me?

Kruz

That popped out of know wear and I barely get it myself.

It says to watch how in 11 hours, the engine is assembled from drain plug to top valve cover. They mount the engine alone on a dyno and beat it as soon as it is up to running temp.

Stage 2, they ship the engine now and stick it in the bike; wheel dyno the rings and tight engine parts and how many engines are puffing oil or whatever lunched bottom end or the ring seal does not take and the oil expanding is pushing the soft metal a little harder is a liquid peen call it.

Out of how many minutes on the engine alone and now the assembled product gets spanked again, are you telling the MV factory they have it all wrong and now email them you read the owner's manual to take it easy.

Easy does it is bend over, I have one more fallacy about riding an engine in the slow lane or you are going to hurt the engine you rev it too fast it is so new.

How does the other side that rode slow explain how you on the other side of the fence has zero problems beating it to the ground first day is blow it up like on an MV engine die know. I think a few revs at any time, is not going to damage parts if I see MV's running process before shipping.

My engine was assembled in the MV factory and den it was shipped to me. I have no clue how to break-in my bike is the meaning above.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/17/2009 @ 8:45 AM *

Well Hub, now that we know how many have broken their 14s in easy vs how many broke 'em in hard via this poll, lettuce ass the next question.

"Are you using oil and is your engine producing good power relative to other 14s?". The last part of that question is a bit subjective, the dyno is only sure way but it may turn out that no matter what the breakin procedure all of these machines are working equally as well. This would lead us to the conclusion that KHI does most of the breakin on the dyno and our overall contribution to the process, as owners, is relatively minor. I know that I have owned many new cars in my life and paid no particular attention to break in and they all ran just fine, used no oil and were still running well when I got tired of looking at them and traded in for something else. Maybe this is why Honda and KHI have different breakin procedures for machines that are nearly identical in fabrication, machining and function. It may not be all that important.

BG could we have a poll where we compare breakin procedure vs oil consumption and power to see if there is any perceivable difference?

Kruz

Hi Kruz:

You can set up a poll yourself any time you like. I'll work on it when I get back from the trip I'm on if you would prefer. -bg

You know,as long as you KNOW she's NOT burning oil-then the recipe is quite simple.One Gallon oil-one new oil filter.That's it.It's not gonna change in amount when it's all said and done.It may expand or contract some,but that's what it's supposed to do,yes?It will always be filled correctly if you do it like that.(unless I'm missing something?) (I suppose if you thrash your engine regularly,then,yes,it could lose some "extra" oil along the way).I've never had to add any oil ever after filling it like I mentioned.By the time I "might"need to add,it would be time to change it anyway!Just my.02 cents.(yes,I broke mine in "by the book").And she runs like a RAPED APE!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/19/2009 @ 9:30 PM *

I agree with Hub. I'm no mechanic and don't "know", but the manual procedure just makes no sense. It might be a controversial topic as to exactly how break-in should be done, but after a lot of research for my own bike, it seems there's an actual agreement on the fact that manual break-in is a bunch of crap written just to make it easiest and safest for consumer (if they tell you to accelerate and decelerate fast during break-in, imagine how many accidents that would cause with all the idiots out there).

Tons of interviews with engineers from motorcycle, ATV, plane, and other industries are out there, and they all say the same thing - manual is for legal purposes, but if you want top performance and quality (best-seated rings, etc.) - ride it hard like you stole it, with some precautions (let it cool down every 10-15 minutes first 50 miles, change oil after 25-50 mi, etc.). Manual break-in is still good and results in few problems, but it's just not going to bring your bike to its full potential (from what I keep reading everywhere).

Mine's at 821mi so far, and I'm riding it hard. I'll try and put it on the dyno after couple thousand more miles before adding any performance mods so that we have some real numbers to compare and talk about. The bike was sluggish from 0mi, though, which is a separate problem in and of itself, but hopefully I can diagnose and fix that next week. But if I can't fix that, then the comparison won't be a "pure" test :/

I am in the market for a zx14. I call a dealer here locally in ga and 1 guy 1 talk to said that the 08 14 lost about 10 h/p from the years before and regain it back in 09 can anyone tell me if this ture??????

Don't have time to research numbers for you, but I test-drove an 09 and currently have an 08 and the 08 feels sluggish in comparison BUUUUT my 08 has been standing in open desert for a year or so, assembled, not covered, and I'm afraid that sand got into wrong places, will check on that soon at a dealer. But from what I've heard, 09 should be about identical to 08.

Why don't you test-drive both at the dealer?

I'm a firm believer in the "break it in like you will use it" method. I made sure I varied the engine speed for the first 100 miles or so. As in run it up to the redline and back down as often as possible. :)

-Matt

The best of the break-in is in about the first 20miles........get ON it!