Buy it! No, just kidding, but I'd like a few of you to help me out. This is my '07 14.
The bike is literally perfect, but a prospective buyer might think there's an issue regarding the "clunk" that happens when you shift from neutral into gear. We all know the first few years the 14 clunked since new. I'd just like a few of you to chime in so the buyer will believe it's normal.
Second thing is the "pop" that often happens at 3,500 RPM. I have the Area P slip on's which, of course, are louder than stock and amplify the pop at 3,500. The pop is there on a new bike but the factory exhaust muffles it a lot. Area P states that a re-map isn't needed because their exhaust only adds 6 HP and doesn't significantly change the air/fuel ratio. I never had the bike re-mapped because the occasional pop doesn't bother me, and because a simple re-map has often given unexpected issues that I don't want to deal with. So I'd like a few of you to also add a comment here that lets the buyer know the pop is normal and not a sign of an issue.
So, just some comments to verify the clunk and the deceleration pop are normal. I appreciate it.

* Last updated by: KAK on 12/7/2019 @ 9:06 AM *

Clunk is normal, pop is normal, okay bye. Just kidding. Here are the clues:
The Pop and the science applied:
Fuel injection mimics a carburetor, meaning, even though the throttle is shut off, the fuel is still being pulled out of the jets but not so much. FI goes lean the same way so upon lift, you apply the abstract of for every action, what just happened? You sucked in fresh OXYGEN into the muffler and refired what little fuel was unspent. Thus the refire of the fuel and POP goes the science of it. It's so in the absolute, ask the buyer to explain it another way the bike has a problem? One down.

The Clunk and the mechanics applied:
There are two shafts in the transmission. One is hooked to the wheel, the other is hooked to the engine. One shaft is locked to the spinning crank and never stops. A friction plate is locked in with the spinning crank. A steel plate is locked with the wheel. Oil cools and lubes any friction induced and clings onto the parts. A free spinning gear on each shaft remains stationary. A sliding gear is locked on each shaft. When the clutch lever is pulled in, the shift lever pressed down, the free spinning gear is going to receive the connection of the sliding gear entry to lock into 1st gear. The combination of a liquid in between a moving part and a stationary part is going to mechanically connect, better known as; A Clunk into 1st gear.

The abstract explaining the look inside:
As if you dipped a paper plate in honey, dipped both hands in it too, placed the dripping paper plate flat between your hands, boom, you're a clutch pack.
a. As if both engine and wheel are locked together, now pull one hand away and begin to spin it on the plate, while the other hand remains stationary.
b. As if the plate is stuck to both hands and now the plate is at this angle / and touches both the spinning (friction) plate next to it and the other touch point at the stationary (steel) plate.
c. As if continuing to circulate your one hand so as to break the honey free off of the plate from your one hand. Thus, stopping the free spinning, or free wheeling gear from the honey lock = No Clunk.

Conclusion:
Go back to stock so no pop is noticed. Go to 1st gear before you start the bike up to eliminate the clunk tell him. You'd be a fool not to buy the bike better known as Bulletproof. NPF [no problem found]

Signed,
NOLTT

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KAK speaks the truth, but if you disengage the clutch and blip the throttle before engaging the shifter that
eliminates the clunk on mine.

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but if you disengage the clutch and blip the throttle before engaging the shifter that
eliminates the clunk on mine.

Honey Lock is broken.

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pop - have you blocked off the pair valve? If not, then do the marble mod.

clunk - Make sure chain is adjusted on the "tight" side. Tighter chain slightly lessens the clunk.

piken, I appreciate the reply. Pair valve blocked. Pop is just now and then and only if coming down from 6 or 7k rpm's.
I always keep the chain adjusted right in the middle of spec'. I wouldn't let a clunk, that's normal anyways, lead me to adjust the chain any other way. Thanks for the tip, though.

Hubmaster, EZX, thanks for verifying. I appreciate it!

We all know the first few years the 14 clunked since new. I'd just like a few of you to chime in so the buyer will believe it's normal.

Second thing is the "pop" that often happens at 3,500 RPM.

Clunk is normal, pop is normal, okay bye. Just kidding.

My 08 does it too. Do search and you'll find umpteen threads about this. You probably can google it and it will come up on that. Pop on deceleration at 3500. Clunk into first from N. They all do it. I'll bet the Gen2s even do it. Roll the bike forward while shifting to 1 and that softens it. I would not be concerned about fuel mapping with a slip-on either but even that will get a wee bit more hp with tune.

Also, IDK if KAK has TREed his bike but that 07 will yank your arms off around 6000 rpm I hear. That's normal too.

If you hear rotors squeak after the bike's sat a while, that is normal too.

I'm sad we'll be loosing ya KAK. It's been a lot of years. You have been with us from the start.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/7/2019 @ 6:09 PM *

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Hey, Rook! Thanks for the reply. I'm not gone yet.
I'm in no hurry to sell but I hope to get it done soon. I have the bike on a free site (KSL) but no calls after 3 days. 2 weeks ago, I sold my 25 year old Blazer to the first person who called so I've put the 14 there too. KSL only covers the states of Utah, Idaho and Wyoming. Winter isn't the best time to sell a bike either, especially up here. I might try Craigslist soon, but I heard they're having security issues? I don't know.
I'm asking $4,900 in the ad. I've seen 1st gen 14's and similar bikes going for $5,500 and up, many are from dealers. I was curious so I submitted my 14 for 2 trade-in quotes and both quotes came back right at $4,000. I guess a typical dealer won't bother unless he can get around $1,500 profit? I wouldn't think of selling my 14 but I had my back surgically repaired and I'm feeling good but I just can't ride the 14 for more than a full day now. Next day I'm kinda sore. I'd like to do more 2-4 day trips but I have to have something more "ergonomically correct". I know the 14's performance will spoil me when riding anything else.
I first looked at the Kawasaki 900 RS ABS retro, but my first look in person I wasn't impressed. Now I'm interested in the 2020 Kawasaki 1000SX.

Listed as a "Sport-Tourer", the 2020 has a lot of new stuff, well, new to me. ABS, Traction Control and Cruise Control to name a few. I heard they're just now arriving in southern Cal', where my other house is. So I'm planning on seeing and sitting on one for the first time when I visit my family for Christmas. The performance is somewhere between the 900 I mentioned and the 14. 143 HP. Plenty for me. I'm more interested because the bars sit higher and closer in, more of a standard-like position. Plus, it has cruise control and a decent seat height. I think I'm going to like it. We'll see.
Once I do sell the 14, I'll visit here now and then. I admit I can't help out with technical questions here as much as I can at the GSResources for older Suzuki GS's (been there 20 years), but I like to see what's going on now and then. I like trying to de-code Hub's replies too. Kind of like doing the crossword puzzles in the paper. Most times I lose. LOL.
Thanks again, all, for helping me out.

* Last updated by: KAK on 12/7/2019 @ 7:25 PM *

I think I'm gonna get a BMW 'concept 101'...

The 14 has clunked forever.They all do.Popping?That's nothing to be concerned about.

Hey, Grn. How's the weather up there? We're getting some snow. Yuck.

The '08 ZX14 I bought this summer clunks for sure. It is about the only negative about the bike, but knowing that it is normal and nothing to worry about helps.
Just to touch on price I paid compared to what you are asking, I paid $4,800 for mine. It had just under 15K miles, centerstand, Yoshi slip-ons, tank bag, new tires, battery, and a few other extras. One negative was that the bike was near due for the expensive ( if done by a shop) 15K valve check. The seller was asking $5,000 but came down a bit when I fussed about the impending valve check. So your asking price seems entirely reasonable.

Now I'm interested in the 2020 Kawasaki 1000SX.

. Before buying the zx14, I tested a 2018 Ninja 1000. I do not know how similar it is to the 1000SX, but I did not like the engine vibration and really short gearing. At 5,000 rpm it was not even doing 60 mph. It just seemed rather frantic compared to the smooth ZX14 engine and low rpm for a given road speed. just my opinion...
Good luck with your sale.

* Last updated by: 2fast4me on 12/8/2019 @ 9:41 AM *

Pee Key Boo... okay, bye!

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I like trying to de-code Hub's replies too. Kind of like doing the crossword puzzles in the paper. Most times I lose. LOL.

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2fast4me, regarding your test ride of a 2018 Ninja 1000, I'm not sure how it compares to the new 1000SX. I appreciate the input. 5,000 rpm's (I assume 6th gear) and going less than 60 mph seems hard to believe (not arguing). My '79 GS1000 is at an indicated 69 mph at 4,000 rpm's. Obviously I'll take a test ride and see what I think. I was expecting to buy the Retro 900 RS until I saw one in person. Power-wise, at 111 HP it was plenty for me. I still haven't seen the SX in person but plan to when I visit my family in So' Cal' for Christmas. The SX has 146 HP, so it's somewhere between the 900 and the 14 in performance. I hope I like it because I don't have a plan B.
I'm well aware that after owning the 14, other bikes will always seem a little slow.

5,000 rpm's (I assume 6th gear) and going less than 60 mph seems hard to believe (not arguing).

Hello KAK, just a friendly response...Yes, it was definitely in 6th gear. I was surprised at the 5,000 RPM the engine was spinning at just under 60 MPH (58 indicated on the speedo). During the whole time I test rode it I was wishing there was another gear or two.
Here is the exact bike I rode. Hope the SX is exactly what you are looking for.