I was hauling ass on the highway as part of my regular daily ritual and exited. When I came to a stop my brakes were doing that crunching sound that pads make when they are worn too much. On cars you get a heads up for a couple of hundred miles as they progressively get worse. On my bike it is like everything was good and then crunch-city. Is that typical? I haven't had a real sports bike before and don't know what to expect....for instance plugs every 8000 miles was a shocker to me. I did manage to get home but I didn't use the front brakes. Drove all the way home slow as hell with my rears for braking. Had visions of wheel lock ripping the bike out from under me all the way home. Tomorrow I will pull them apart and have a look see. I am going to order EBC HH brake pads unless you guys steer me elsewhere. Remember I am a cheap ass. The bike just turned 6850 miles. Already put 3300 on it in 10 weeks.

Chewy.

The stock pads are just as good as aftermarket. Unless yours are aftermarket rotors and binders and tracked a lot they should last a long time like 25-30K miles.

My '14 14R has 8K on it and a few track days and the pads look about 75%. I put EBC HH pads on my '06 and the pad frame was just a bit smaller than stock and they clicked/rattled in the caliper when used and bothered me to the point of putting stock (which are HH) pads back in

I've seen so many steel pad carriers simply turn blue with the softer steel material used, and most times does not lock up any wheel that I recall. After all, they came in for a brake problem say. You'll hear the noise or it won't stop as well. Car wise, the squeakers have this built in and I think that's a DOT requirement as are dates on components required by DOT. Performance bike wise, this puppy needs a higher maintenance level. So the deal is to check brakes when tire pressure is going to be done, or if tires are removed you then inspect pad wear.

The clacker factor is joe blow aftermarket can't out and out copy said component or there goes the infringement. But if say the dimensions are out of spec... wink-wink-wink is the loophole... nothing fits like the OE.

Back to the lost $$ of buying twice. Learn from others. Rattle your wallet only once = BUY OEM.

BUY OEM

update....

Damn lower right caliper bolt was missing and the upper one was bent enough to have to be pounded out of the caliper. The left side was loose too. I guess that is why they tell you to replace those bolts every time you remove the caliper. I order two full sets for the front and rear at 2 bucks each off Partzilla so I will be covered. I went to Menard's and got some good bolts to tide me over for a week. Went for a 2 hour ride around town and rechecked torque at home and all was good. I am now going to recheck them every time I lube my chain just in case.

Chewy

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 10/6/2018 @ 3:50 PM *

Holy crap!

The only way that happens is whom ever reattached
the calipers last time sounds like they finger tightened
the calipers bolts and then forgot to come back and torque
them down. There's no way they loosened from being properly
torqued down.

My calipers are on and off a lot, I've never used a "New"
replacement bolt and always torqued correctly and I've
"NEVER" had a loose caliper bolt, street or track bike.

+1 what Piken said

I have 21K on the original pads and still have several thousand remaining. I'm staying with OEM. I've never replaced any bolts either. No issues if torqued correctly.

* Last updated by: KAK on 10/8/2018 @ 1:28 PM *

for instance plugs every 8000 miles was a shocker to me

who da fuck told you this bullshit

NGK

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/8/2018 @ 1:41 PM *

Use anti seize on the caliper bolts or they WILL stick in the fork legs and require a lot of work to get
out.... ask me how I know.

Mad

for instance plugs every 8000 miles was a shocker to me"

who da fuck told you this bullshit

NGK

KHI ZX14 service schedule. Seems excessive to me but I did change them as KHI scheduled

who da fuck told you this bullshit

NGK

Hub and the manual states 7500 miles. Maybe they mean inspection but I am not gonna spend 1 hour pulling the plugs just to put them back when 32 bucks replaces them.

Chewy

Hub and the manual states 7500 miles. Maybe they mean inspection but I am not gonna spend 1 hour pulling the plugs just to put them back when 32 bucks replaces them.

Hub and KHI is out of their minds. Time better spent cleaning the air filter

How long is a spark plug life?
Replacement spark plugs should usually be the same type (platinum or iridium) as the original if they are expected to last 100,000 miles. Standard spark plugs are only good for about 40,000 miles.Jun 12, 2014

i guess them motorcycle plugs must be made from some real shitty material only way i'd be worried about plugs would be on a power added motor like turbo or nitrous . stock motor street bike screw them plugs unless i want to throw money away every other oil change.

i can find better things to spend that money on

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/8/2018 @ 8:09 PM *

HOT DAMN!

Wouldn't be able to afford my bike if I was spending money on her. WOW! Look at the beautiful curves on that car.

WHAT CAR??????

Mad

Anti-seize? Brake caliper Bolts?
When you remove the Factory Bolts that hold the calipers on, there is some RED SHIT on the bolts, that RED SHIT is removable thread lock! Do not put anti-seize on the caliper bolts.
Clean the bolt holes properly, if you have compressed air, blow the holes out and also a shot of degreaser wouldn't do it any harm. If the threads are dirty on the bolts, clean them.
Do Not clean the red thread lock off. Leave it on, reinstall the original bolts and torque to spec.
If you are installing new bolts then apply a small amount of REMOVABLE thread lock and torque to spec.

I also bet them boobs cost more than my bike.

I remove the calipers everytime I change a tire.That's about 3 times a year or so.Gonna get flamed for this...but I've NEVER torqued ANY bolt to spec on any of my bikes.All by feel.Never lost a bolt yet,or stripped one out.And the deal with the caliper bolts.Seizing usually occurs from the metallurgy properties.Between the bolt material and the caliper material.Removing those 3 times a year stops that from becoming a problem.Glad that caliper didn't snap off o' there while you were ridin.That woulda been UGLY.
To this day I've never used a torque wrench.Now if I was building an engine or something...that'd be different.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/9/2018 @ 8:55 PM *

When you remove the Factory Bolts that hold the calipers on, there is some RED SHIT on the bolts, that RED SHIT is removable thread lock!

Pg. 12-5... where L means- use locking agent (circled next to part number circle)

No (L) circled letter at the brake caliper bolt means no locker used. Yes, there are other factory red locker agent type bolts used, but the cali's are high maintenance, and it looks like one of those compression head bolt heads to take care of backing out, me thinks.

HA HA The Hub strikes again.
I'm looking at page 12-4 on the lap top right now and the only "3" that I see circled is the brake lever pivot bolt.
Page 12-5 You are, however, correct in stating that there is no locking compound on the caliper mounting bolts #10. The locking compound is on the caliper assembly bolts #9. My mistake.
I think the main point of my previous post was about not putting anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts, and with that. I'm sure you will agree.

Food For Thought.
Pocket Reference by Thomas J. Glover
Nickel based anti-seize. #10 Front caliper mounting bolt = 25 ft.lbs x 0.65 = 16.25 ft.lbs

* Last updated by: redboot on 11/9/2018 @ 11:02 PM *

Hey Grn. Christmas is just around the corner. I'll have a word with Santa for you. Maybe there's a torque wrench in the bottom of his sack with your name on it.

Lol!NO locktite on caliper mount bolts.

But I have a question.What are they saying when they say "so that the seating area of the caliper bolt does not contact the caliper"...I'll admit it...I'm confused;)It HAS to contact the caliper body doesn't it?When it's tightened in.

Okay...sorry.My bad.I was looking in the H2 manual.But still...what do they mean?

I just looked at the 2013 14r Manual.They say nothing about 'seating area' with the bolts and calipers.

Okay...let me guess this one then.The bolts are a different design.The H2 has a flanged bolt.So are they saying this to assure a guy doesn't crossthread that bolt or something?I mean,how possible would it be for someone to NOT get the bolt in straight and tighten down?They're pretty good size.I'm not sure how I could imagine this happening?But apparently it has,but how?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/10/2018 @ 7:56 PM *

You are still on page 12-11
Go to page 12-12 for explanation.