Hey Rook - I'm ready to remove my rear fender, but before I do I'd like to have whatever parts / materials I'll need to re-light my license plate mounted on a custom bracket I'll make, so I don't have any down time waiting for stuff to arrive.

So ... is any wire cutting required? Or can the factory plate light's wiring just be re-routed to power a small LED light shining on the plate? I'll probably get 2 of those bolts with built-in LEDs. I could crimp/solder on the appropriate end connectors to a wire to run to those LEDs, if that would work?

I'd prefer not to cut into the factory wiring ... rather just plug into the a factory connector.

Thanks ...

Edit: Sorry, just found your LED light tutorial

* Last updated by: extrapolator on 4/24/2015 @ 1:02 AM *

Hi.
It's not necessary to cut the original wire. There's a plugging on the left side near the frame. You just need to have something of about 30cm of wire on your LED bolts to plug them into the original wire.

is any wire cutting required? Or can the factory plate light's wiring just be re-routed to power a small LED light shining on the plate?

I din't have to cut any OEM wires. I crimped contacts on the bolt light and plugged it into the same connector that the OEM tag light used. The connector for the tag light is shown in step 15 of this tutorial and there are some photos of the connectors about 2 replies below the tutorial.

Also, this :
LED TAG LIGHT INSTALL

Try to identify which slot in the OEM connector is negative and which is positive. mark them immediately so you can plug the +/- contact on the proper slots in the connector. I had to guess and it seems I got it right. I'm not sure it matters if you reverse them or not. It sure seems like it would matter but I believe I was told on the busa forum it would work either way (IDK if this was for the rear brake light or the tag light I was asking about). I'd just find out for sure which is negative and which is positive and stick with that or maybe you would blow a fuse? IDK? Use a test light if you need to.

can anyone verify whether or not it matters if the polarity of the tag light connector is reversed?

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/24/2015 @ 5:29 PM *

Thanks again. I believe polarity doesn't matter with a regular incandescent bulb, but does with LEDs.

Another satisfied customer Try to ignore the OEM bazookas.

Note the offender laying in the background ("off-fender" )

* Last updated by: extrapolator on 5/19/2015 @ 10:13 AM *

Looks GOOD!

Meant to also say: 1) Thanks for this instructional!

2) Works for a Gen 2 also. And I was able to remove all 3 fender securing bolts without removing the tail section. My set of open end wrenches are fairly short, so that prob helped some.

* Last updated by: extrapolator on 5/19/2015 @ 8:01 PM *

Good. Thanks for the Gen2 details. I edited the title at he top of p1...can't do anything about the name of thread but at least it's at the top of the tutorial.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/19/2015 @ 7:19 PM *

Did this on my Gen2 yesterday, took about an hour. Thanks for the instructions, but as others note, you do not need to remove tail fairings or lights. You don't have to disconnect anything either, the ECU units slide out of the rubber holders and can be lifted out of the way. The rubber holder is soft,and can be held aside in order to get the 10mm wrench on the rear nut.

Piece of cake and the bike looks so much better without the fender.

While not a fender eliminator, this worked for me...
I just took a small dremmel and cut off the plastic fender just slightly above the bottom of the licence plate. I used a piece of duct tape on the fender for a straight-edge.

The red reflector is attached to the flat spot on the plate light with velcro for easy bulb servicing. It stays put.

With that much of the fender gone, it shows off enough of the rear tire to make quite a difference.

Takes less than 10 mins. No rewiring or brackets required.

* Last updated by: Vipered on 9/10/2015 @ 8:57 PM *

Hey Rook, thanks for the tutorial, another satisfied follower of this post! Took me about half an hour, using a kit I bought on eBay, which came with the LED.

Orsome! Glad it helped AussieZX.

Well that's just great, AussieZX ... but I'm having a real hard time seeing the high rez pics of it you uploaded here.

LOl, I knew it would be suggested I post photos! I did it last night in the dark, so wasn't conducive to photo taking.

UPDATED

updated forever!

I usually do what Rook shows how to do, but I’m getting lazy and just ordered this bracket off eBay. For 25 bucks including shipping and comes with a LED light, I’m impressed! It’s thick machined, anodized aluminum and fully adjustable. Finding a light that I like was the issue and this bracket came with the light. Hardware is also stainless steel.

I did have to make two holes in the plastic fender, but that was easy. Hooked up the wiring the same way Rook shows how to.

Wow!! That looks too good to put a plate on!