Process for lubing my 14R's chain...

Vic's how to: Lube motorcycle chain with gear oil

What weight oil do you use, synthetic of dinosaur? I'll try it.

Cool vid Vic...I changed my oiling method...thanks to CBlast.Now I just make sure the chain is clean with kerosine...then spray my Maxima chain wax on the LOWER rung and spin the wheel while doing this.I don't use the oiling from the top rear of the sprocket method anymore.The lower run with the full spray(no spray tube attached) of the can really gets in those parts and works real well(for me)....also put a rag under that lower run and drape it over the lower rear fairing(in between) to keep any overspray off the parts under there.VERY quick way to do it.Amazing how much easier it is(to me).This forces the chain wax DOWN(which would be the top of the run on the upside.This also eliminated the lube running down the rear sprocket(faces) while oiling as well...cleaning that sprocket face off everytime got old....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/16/2014 @ 9:43 PM *

You can use any gear oil (or other oils...gear oil is pretty typical). On my old bike I just used 80-90w. I happen to be using 75-90w synthetic but I have no problem using dinosaur oil either.

From the factory my bike came lubed with Kawasakis chain lube. That stuff got all over everything. I removed my chain guard and rear fairing and it was all coated with the factory lube. Of course it was all over my wheel too. It was much more difficult to clean overall as it's consistency is very thick and paste like. I used full strength Simple Green which worked pretty well to clean it all off (had to use full strength, diluted did not work very well). With the oil, the fling literally just wipes right off, don't even really need to use a cleaner.

The more thorough you wipe the excess oil off the less fling you will get. The oil is already around the o-rings which will not be wiped off. Oil can drip from the front sprocket cover area. IMO a drip or two from there is better than clogging up the sprocket area with flinged lube, but again the more thorough it's wiped the less this will happen. Last time I spent about half the time wiping it down and got 1 very small drop in one place.

The video is pretty much real time, I edited out about 30 seconds.

This forces the chain wax DOWN

With the gear oil any gravitational considerations are no concern. Just by spinning the tire a few times, it works itself very quickly around the entire area of the o-rings.

This also eliminated the lube running down the rear sprocket(faces)

I don't really have this problem. This is not why I was wiping the sides of the sprocket. This was just cleaning off the light coating of road dust/debris that accumulates on motorcycle parts.

I think you're doing a good job maintaining that chain Vic...should last a good long time.Chain care is one thing that Hub reinforced into me....I wasn't neglecting mine really...but a new routine of kerosine cleaning and lubing routines really did make a difference for my last chain for sure.I honestly don't think my last chain even needed to be replaced...but since most say replace chain also when changing sprockets...I figured why not.Hadn't done it that way before....I'd have to say....that 'factory ride feel' became evident with this last changeout;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/17/2014 @ 7:28 AM *

Hey Vic I know you've logged some miles, curious how your chain is holding up? Mine is looking good but I didn't put alot of miles on this past year. I prefer the gear oil to spray lube so thanks for the tip.

Use 80/90w or straight 90w. Set pan under middle of chain. Lube lower chain rung. Why? Centrifugal force flings the oil into the chain. Vic's move is only on the outside rung, not both sides, i.e., soak shit out of it.

Well I do agree with Hub...I always apply to the lower run surface for his reason.I used to do it like Vic there...but I get a better saturation applying it on the bottom run.

I think as long as you as hub put it "soak shit out of it" it doesn't seem like it really matters where you apply it.

I used up the first bottle of 75w-90, so I got 80w-90 dino. I stopped using it because 75w does a much better job of covering the chain where as the 80w tended to pool between the links, causing drips.

No offense guys, but you got to get over this whole centrifugal thing and the lower rung bs. I know you're thinking gravity pulls downward right? Well, what about when the chains on the top side of the sprockets? As far as riding, it's not going to matter where you apply it centrifugal force is going to strip.

Also, refer to your owner manual. The procedure I follow for applying is actually what Kawasaki recommends.

Got 15k miles on her and have adjusted slack (barely) twice on her. I run it loser than tighter. Chains still like brand new.

Yep...you are following the manual...can't go wrong there.Then again though...I don't use gear oil on mine.Chain Wax in a spray can...quick and simple.Works great.Cleans away nicely with kerosine.Softens up while riding.Been good for countless miles so far.I did the squeezing thing(grease) as per Hub last time...was okay...BUT i did get a lot of fling(wiped it best I could prior to riding)...which was a drag really.Got on the sidewall pretty good...not so inspiring;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/17/2015 @ 9:51 PM *

Well as we all know, when it comes to chains the most important thing is they get paid attention to. I still think gear oil (75 being my favorite now) is the superiour lube due to the very nature of what is being accomplished by lubing the chain the first place.

On another forum people think it's normal to replace chains every 15k miles, all of which use spray lubes and swear they clean/lube chain just as religiously as I do (evrery 400 miles). I think what's most telling about it is their sprockets are always worn and need replaced as well. There's something going on there.

I don't know, I honestly expect my chain to last at least 30k miles if not longer.

The appearance of my chain and sprocket is far better since I've switched to gear oil, I've made some terrible messes with spray lube.

I agree 100% with Vic, the MOST important thing is to pay attention to your chain. "Just lube it."

Even if you were to use some old 3 in 1 oil, anything is better than nothing!!!

LOL mine gets like that...almost. I only have been using axle grease in the cold weather. It might help that stuff clear out if it was not high temp grease. IT will fling even more but if it's lower drop temp, it will melt away from under the sprocket cover.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/7/2017 @ 2:32 PM *

Ok yall if this isn't pudding level proof I don't know what is. Here's 2 sprockets, both OE 14Rs. One has 14,780 miles on it, the other has 5. Which is which?

sprockets 1
sprockets 2

And yes I realize the used one has some marks where it's been polished. But look at the structure of the teeth. It's like brand new. The chain is literally in that kind of condition as well. That's why I use gear oil, and that's now I know my technique works and works well.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 12/30/2015 @ 7:50 AM *

I can't see the pages without an account login. I'll take your word they are indiscernible. I see a slight saw toothing to rear sprocket after about 20,000 miles. That's an aluminum sprocket and lubed with Maxima chain wax mostly. Some hight temp grease in the cold. Haven't looked the front yet.

305.6 trip = Lubed chain tonight ~ I could tell without looking at the trip.

Sorry about the pic issues... Had the gigantic pic issue and tried a few things and links were about the best I could come up with. I didn't consider a login issue (which obviously isn't an issue for me!). I posted a portion of the closeup.