Should I mess with it? Bike still hasn't been ridden (waiting on tages) but is it tight becuase it loosens up so quickly? I'd say 1/2" right now if that when I'm sitting on it.

* Last updated by: Auron on 9/25/2014 @ 2:19 PM *

It may not have been prepped out of the crate. Tighten chain so it does not pop out of the jacks during shipment so yes, 1.5" loose when on side stand. 1/2" loose when sitting is too tight. When the swing moves up, it yanks on up on the lower front swing arm and chews on that side if too tight, think.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/25/2014 @ 2:28 PM *

In case you haven't yet: Gen 2 final drive specs here.

The factory manual doesn't specify how much force to apply when deflecting the chain to make your measurement. I take that to mean use a prodigious amount of arm strength.

This is in direct contrast to checking my last scooter with a belt driven final: you applied a force of 10 lbs both directions when taking the measurement.

The factory manual doesn't specify how much force to apply when deflecting the chain to make your measurement. I take that to mean use a prodigious amount of arm strength.

The Gen1 does not either but I think just a tug is enough. 2 1/2 lbs of pressure. You can pull and extra 1/4" if you pull hard enough.

The Gen1 does not either but I think just a tug is enough. 2 1/2 lbs of pressure

Consider: how hard (in pounds/force) does a chain have to bear on the double row ball bearing positioned on the counter shaft before it's overloaded?

While you mull that over think about what that bearing must endure during maximum engine output.

Hub's observation of compressing the swingarm to maximum and probing for just under zero deflection probably is the most telling but I use the 1.0 - 1.2" with a strong push and pull while the swingarm is fully extended.

Note that the Gen 1 specification for slack is different.

Too loose is better than too tight.

I find "too loose" contributes to incomplete transmission engagement after shifting up and unwarranted TC intervention upon subsequent throttle application during low rev conditions.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 9/25/2014 @ 6:27 PM *

Too loose is when an adjust bolt head is just one flat of a turn short of missing shifts. I have no scientific evidence, but [runs out and spins the rear wheel]; I do not see a high spot I run looser than spec. This would be the 3rd 14 with the same MO. That's how I break-in a chain... Loose short of missing a shift... It's not the trans, not you, but the loose chain dropping that one gear out of sync. Makes sense to me.

Loose short of missing a shift...

Ultimately that is my metric: when shifts get notchy I need half of a flat to bring me back to "Land O' Lakes" country.

Unwanted TC must be in F-1 and I'll throw a dart at that. I'm lots loose and I feel zip in F-off. I can see a brisk throttle opening, the chain whip before the rubber cushions absorb that tiny bit of slack, where that sprocket could zip thru the magnet a bit faster. But that's one PITA I leave from a stop like I do, or open the throttle in the brisk kick it up. It still says the TC kicks it down if the mode is turned on still. So I'm going to guess F-1 might have thrown you off on adding that square wave zip that tiny bit? Na. I bet my chain is much looser than yours.

Your dart hit the hamburger right in the eye.

My ride home has perpetual gravel/negative traction fill-in-the-blank.

The morning commute is 37 traffic lights so I let KHI modulate the throttle while I pin it to win it, think.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 9/25/2014 @ 6:52 PM *