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Thread: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment

Created on: 01/13/12 02:14 AM

Replies: 57

Rook


Rook's Gravatar

Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19367

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/01/20 12:25 PM



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

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TrashHauler


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Location: Downunder

Joined: 09/28/12

Posts: 31

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/01/20 3:10 PM

A couple of mods to make it easier to do balance the throttle bodies.

Extensions to the vacuum pickup points and painted the vacuum adjust screw housing and the left right balance screw so I can see them.



TH



2010 ZX14
1991 ZZR1100
1985 GPz900R
1985 GPz600R
1979 Z500

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Rook


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Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19367

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/03/20 7:13 AM

That is really cool, TH! Am I correct in stating the center adjuster screw cannot be replaced with an ordinary allen head machine screw? An allen hex would sure be easier to turn than that phillips/straight slot head. It looks as though that OEM center screw has threads with a stopper so the screw can only be turned X # of turns in and out. It also felt as though the center screw had some kind of stopper on it when I turned it with the T Bodies installed.


* Last updated by: Rook on 1/3/2020 @ 7:15 AM *



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

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Proven001



Joined: 01/03/20

Posts: 1

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/03/20 4:44 PM

Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum.
Firstly I wanted to tank you for the great 'how to write ups' it's given me the courage to attempt maintaining my bike. I also wanted to add that I am a complete novice when it comes this stuff, so please bear w/me.

I'm in the process of checking my valve clearances for the on my 2008 zx14 for the first time.

Question: when you are TDC for cylinder 1, should both the intake cams be in the same position? It looks like the furthest to the left intake cam and the one next to it are in different positions. I can measure the gap on the left cam, but can't measure the next one, the 'point of the egg' looks like it is touching the lifter.
I can try to take pictures.

Question 2, is it okay to measure the gap with the point of the cam pointing up? If YES, then I can measure intake valve gap 1, then 2 separately..

(i realize i sound like an idiot) Any help is appreciated.

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 12359

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/03/20 8:29 PM

We sit on the bike and we use left and right to describe what switches we need to replace, or to stand on left side of bike, or the spark timing of 1-2-4-3, so 1 starts at the left.

The cam lobe nomenclature is heal and toe. So the pointed end is the toe.

Stand on the left side of the bike and look at number 1 cylinder's cam lobes. To measure the shim gap, the toes face out toward the exhaust and intake. You will adjust both in&ex on 1, then 2's ex and 3' intake.

You are going to turn the crank so 4 is at top dead center or toes pointing out. Measure both in/ex on 4, ex on 3, and in on 2.

Bend your feelers so they do not cock under the shim to cam lobe. Use the go-no-go system. Max feeler should not go in. You'll see the shim clearances stamped on the build card on the left side of the frame.

Where this is book cam position, yes, you might find the odd or single adjust lobe sitting up. Book still calls this a good measurement at this position.



Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time

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TrashHauler


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Location: Downunder

Joined: 09/28/12

Posts: 31

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/03/20 10:13 PM

Rook - I think you could replace the screw but you would need a lathe to turn the end down as the screw has no thread on the end.
Proven 1 - a couple of times I mistakenly thought the same but I was actually looking at #1 right and # 2 left cam lobes. The key to remember is that each cam lobe for a cylinder sits either side of the cam bearing. You won’t see to cam lobes from the same cylinder without the bearing between them.

TH



2010 ZX14
1991 ZZR1100
1985 GPz900R
1985 GPz600R
1979 Z500

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Rook


Rook's Gravatar

Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19367

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/04/20 2:03 PM

Rook - I think you could replace the screw but you would need a lathe to turn the end down as the screw has no thread on the end.

Thanks, I will consider replacing that with an easier screw the next time I remove the T-bodies.



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

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Rook


Rook's Gravatar

Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 19367

RE: Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment
01/04/20 3:02 PM

Question: when you are TDC for cylinder 1, should both the intake cams [for cylinder 1] be in the same position? It looks like the furthest to the left intake cam and the one next to it are in different positions. I can measure the gap on the left cam, but can't measure the next one, the 'point of the egg' looks like it is touching the lifter.

If you have followed steps 1, 2, and three and your visual is the same as the each pic in steps 1, 2 and 3, that would have to be TDC of the compression stroke for cylinder #1. That's the correct engine position to check the valve clearances indicated in solid black in step 4.

Proven 1 - a couple of times I mistakenly thought the same but I was actually looking at #1 right and # 2 left cam lobes. The key to remember is that each cam lobe for a cylinder sits either side of the cam bearing. You won’t see to cam lobes from the same cylinder without the bearing between them.

That is a great observation TH. I think I had the same confusion when I did this.

The vertical legs of the camshaft towers hide the cam on the side facing away from you. It's like the cam's hiding behind that wall. You might be looking at the LH cam on Cylinder #2 and thinking that is the RH cam for Cylinder #1. I'll bet that's it. Have a look at the pic in step 7 and you can see that RH cam just barely peeking out around the corner of the camshaft tower. Also refer to step 16 and you can see how close those paired cams are to one another. The one you are looking for is just hiding on you! It's tricky to get a tape in there to measure the gap. You have to flex it and slide it in nice and flush to the lifter. You will struggle a bit to get the angle right but don't force the tape...it might just be too thick to fit. Have patients and you'll get it without scratching your lifters.

Seems to me, the lobes of both intake cams for any given cylinder would ALWAYS be exactly in the same position whether you were at TDC or somewhere else in the cycle. If you have one lobe up and one down, those are not partners on the same cylinder.

If the "point of the egg" (lobe) is pointed down that is not the correct position to check. If the lobe is touching, obviously you cannot check the gap, there would be no gap to get a feeler gauge in. What you are measuring when you check valve clearance is the space under the round portion of the cam, not the lobe.

Question 2, is it okay to measure the gap with the point of the cam pointing up? If YES, then I can measure intake valve gap 1, then 2 separately..

First thing I would say is, position the engine at TDC of the compression stroke of Cylinder #1. The process to position the engine as such is shown in steps 1, 2 and 3.

The illustration in step 4 shows which valves you can check when the the engine is positioned at TDC of Cylinder #1's compression stroke. The solid blacks in the diagram are the ones you can check at TDC compression stroke Cylinder #1.

To answer your question, I believe you could check the clearance at any point where the circular portion of the cam is over the lifter. Round is round---same clearance all along that curve as long as you are measuring under the round. You cannot check the clearance with any portion of the "out of round" lobe portion of the cam over the lifter. The lobe is not round and consistent like a circle is.

^^^ All hypothetical. Just get the motor positioned according to steps 1, 2, and 3 and you are ready to measure the LH intake cam of Cyl #1 and the RH intake cam of Cyl #1. The lobe on both will be pointed forward. Look closely, I think the RH intake cam is hidden from your view as mentioned by TrashHualer.


* Last updated by: Rook on 1/4/2020 @ 3:03 PM *



'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE flies out, full Tsukigi Cannon exhaust, BMC race filter, Muzzy's block off plates, Super Sprox 17t output sprocket, AFM 45t rear sprocket, EK zzz 530 chain, Gilles Tooling axle adjusters, PC5, Romans map, AT-200, Ignition Module, LCD-200, Speedohealer V4, Glow-Shift gauges, Illumiglow 210 mph clock faces, HM PLUS quickshifter, Factory Pro EVO Shift Star, RC's oil pump cover, Moto-D magnetic oil drain plug, MIT billet oil filler cap, Shorai 14A2 Lithium battery, Spiegler SS clutch and brake lines, HyperPro RSC steering damper, LighTech fuel tank cap, Vortex rearsets, lightweight mudflap bracket, FP Racing preload adjusters, Ohlins FGRT807 forks and KA544 shock, Carrazzeria Tri-R wheels, Bridgeport 90° valve stems, CZ 320mm front rotors, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pazzo levers, ProBots Dzus fasteners and many other bolts replaced with aluminum or Ti, Vortex mirror blocks, CRG bar end mirrors, LSL frame sliders, axle sliders, billet bar ends, 2WheelWorkz muffler

Link | Top | Bottom


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