I am preparing to updagrade my clutch to Brembo 16 RCS clutch master cylinder. Everything is in my hand except the safety switch which is under the clutch lever. I have to make connectors for the switch first. I don't know the reason why I can't pull out those 2 of connectors which is shown in the photo above. Any one gets photos of those 2 connectors in hand please and how I can pull them out. Thank you for any help.

There must be a way. Don't cut them. You don't see any kind of a tab on the outside of the white connectors?

@Rook. I haven't removed the Nissin lever. so I don't know how the white connectors was installed with the safety switch. Sure, I won't cut them. I am prepared to make a connectors for these 2 white connecotors. i have no idea what kind of connectors I should to get. Sigh......

I think this problem came up a while ago. I referred someone to a site that sells OEM lead connectors. I believe they were looking for the proper connectors to hook up their Brembo MC to the OEM switches. I don't know if they actually had removed the connectors from the switch. If that member wasn't you, at least you know there's someone on here who must have removed those connectors.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/6/2021 @ 7:35 AM *

I just checked mine. It now is a one piece [siamese] connector. Do this first: 10 finger pushups, then pull the one or even try both if you do 10 more finger pushups on the other hand. Hold foot on handlebar, one hand on each connector and pull towards your chest... don't forget to read my sig line.

Your camera is good enough to see the tab, and depress it with a homemade tongue depressor. You can forgo all the attempted damage and let goop glue come to the rescue. Say on the non-sacrificial side of both OEM connectors, simply find a single wire, spice the ends to a Y, jam the strands into the loops of the brass connector, goop it on [not in] and let it setup.

Take a multimeter and find that the ends did make contact, or screw that, take the other wire end, and however that connector is, be it male/female, use the one whole strand and say it's a [single hole] female on the aftermarket connector; see if it can fit tight using a twist, ball it up, whatever is the best contact, then glue this on. It acts as just the holder in place glue. Meaning, I lay the glue over the connector, over the wire and that holds without pushing glue into the strands.

This way, I can see I need more glue to cover whatever bare wire is hanging out of the connector, I cover that too, no e-tape needed. Come time and heat, the tape unravels and besides, those days are over with this glue. I can pop the wire out, pull the glue off, she it back to OEM on both connector ends, no cutting/tab damage needed> You look the pro on the selling side, not a butcher on the cutting side and now the buyer is not looking too confident on your... need I say?

Signed,
Lost Sale

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/6/2021 @ 8:51 AM *

Just grab firmly and pull off. There is no catch that you depress.

* Last updated by: Greentween on 3/6/2021 @ 2:30 PM *

@Greentween? Cheers, mate. would you mind take a photo on the connectors which is in white plastice cover hold by your hand?

Just grab firmly and pull off. There is no catch that you depress.

See, that's all we needed. I sure wish someone would have piped up before I cut the wire to remove my horn. Those spade connectors were so damn tight, I thought they had to be soldered right onto the horn. Nope, just tight as heck so they can't slip out.

Does anyone know the purpose of this switch on the clutch? The print calls it the starter lockout switch, but as near as I can tell, you don't have to pull in the clutch lever to start the bike, so what the hell is it for? I did finally get my starting issue fixed, it WAS the killswitch going flaky.

If the switch is working properly you shouldn't be able to start the bike IN GEAR.
In neutral it will start.

Mad

Safety lockout starting loop goes like this:
Clutch out/in N/kill off/press start = Won't.
Clutch out/in gear/stand up/press start = Won't.
Clutch out/in gear/stand down/press start = Won't.

And then mess with the kick or clutch switch out of the loop:
Clutch ~ In gear it is going to start as if clutch pulled in.
Kickstand ~ Place in gear, the bike kills the engine.

same

* Last updated by: Greentween on 3/7/2021 @ 3:25 PM *

The problem is that the brembo clutch master cylinders don't have micro switch clutch sensors. You need to install a hydraulic pressure sensor and connect those wires to the pressure switch.
Banjo pressure switch

@Greentween, I mean take a photo from other end as the photo from red arrow point to the red circles shown below. So I can tell what kind of the connectors they are. Sorry for my bad description. Thanks.

* Last updated by: Alom on 3/7/2021 @ 4:22 PM *

Its called a spade connector. I believe it is 4.8mm size.

@Greentween, you are genius! Thanks a lot!

@Hub, you are so sweet. thank you for your posting. for the safety function, you are very correct. I will check mine when I finish the upgrade.

@CoolBrzBlu, yes, I have already got everything in hand, include the switch. I want to make a connect base for the safety connector. that's why I want to know the type of the connectors. This is my switch. The connector looks like does not fit my safetys'.

@Rook, bro~ there is a barb on connector if it's spade connector. it's very hard to pull out of from the connector. It looked @Hub advised how to pull out it. But I haven't understood him. I need time to exercise what he said.

Look at Green's last photo and note the tangs coming out of the switch. The flat tangs are vertical, so I would move the connector up and down and pull the connector, not side to side and bend the tangs. There are no plastic arms to depress to disconnect from a plastic connector to plastic connector type. These are just interference fits that drag on the tangs.

Same last photo of Green's switch connectors. look at the two hoops in the one spade connector design. This is the female end, the tangs are the male ends on the switch. So those two hoops are low enough for the open side to drag on the male spade and that's what holds the grip. You just pull straight out, and up and down to walk it off the male pin of the switch.

So the two hoops on the one spade female side, you Y the strands and can run that wire into those two female loops and glue in place. As far as the [other end of the] remote wire to be installed as this in between wire between connector male/female pin ends, you can wrap the strands down the side of the wire's plastic covering, and jam that wire between pin and connector, then glue the one [remote wire] in place.

Since the glue is on the one side of the connector and wire, you can take the other remote wire and brace it against the pin and connector of that male spade, and glue in place. Once dry, glue the center between wires and that sort of closes the wires together in the middle so they can't budge, besides the first outside glue hold. Kind of over-engineer the wire bracing.

After all is said and done, you made no tab depressing tool to remove the spade out of the plastic connector. You just used two lengths of wires, stripped both ends of the remote wires and made contacts with the strands to the tangs of the spades, and glued in place.

Because I am assuming the banjo bold uses male spade pins. So you hurt noting if you press the pins up against the wire that is between pin and plastic connector for an interference type bite.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/8/2021 @ 1:28 AM *

I haven't actually tried on the bikes connector but generally this is how you remove spade connector. Hope this helps.

* Last updated by: Greentween on 3/8/2021 @ 8:06 AM *

For my horn, I just pulled like hell. Unfortunately I had already cut the wire.

@all, thank you guys for your help, i have already bought some of 4.8mm male spade connectors for the safety switch. i will modi the connector when i receive them. i will post experience of new Brembo 16rcs clutch kit sooner.