I have 17,000 miles on my stock drive chain. I used to have to tighten it every 2000 - 3000 miles. I't's been 3000 miles so far this season and it doesn't look like the chain has loosened at all. I checked the service limit and the chain is still in spec. Does this sound normal to have a chain that doesn't stretch after a while?

I set my chain twice during break in. Third time I had to go back to the old setting. Never touched it since. If I look at the swing arm, I count the marks toward the front, then work back in adjustment. I'm past the second notch, but just a little past it, after 13,123 miles. Where do your marks line up?
I took that front brake video yesterday as I lubed the chain in the morning. I never missed a gear. Usually a lot of missed shifts can contribute to a too loose or tight chain.

I did miss a couple shifts last week. That is very unusual. I think it was from the old storage oil that was left in the filter (I did not change the filter after storage since it was a new). I let the bike drain thoroughly before the last oil / filter change and seems to shift great.

I am right on mark #3 back from the front. 1,2,3 and I am at 17,000 miles. I adjusted the chain probably 5 or six times in the first 13,000 miles. Haven't had to adjust it at all since middle of last season.

Still on the stock chain, Hub. You may recall that I was interested in changing the chain last year because of broken o-rings but decided to keep running it. I lube often and it's held up. I just find it strange that the chain stopped stretching after needing adjustment fairly frequently in the first two years.

Stretch marks in the chain happen two ways. One is short, the other is a pin wearing process. That is why you take an average of 21 pin lengths, then measure against the factory number on the final wear distance.

Just remember when the chain is made, there is that grease around the inside of the pin and roller. That is squeezed out of the o-rings on the thrust alone. So, there is one loose chain times 106 links about to lose their lube around the pin. That is the one quick and fast stretch in the beginning.

The chain only moves 1/2 way around the sprockets. This is especially around the counter shaft sprocket. It is almost half way around. At one time, you could roll over the lube and not cut into the material of the inner pin. The outer roller and inner pin wear on each other. Now you have these two rubbing against each other no matter if lubed or not. The lube just slows down that pin being rubbed away.

And if you lined the pins all up, there would be one pin with a weak bond to the molecules. This is the one that will break at that wear point. The stress crack has begun somewhere along that weak molecule bonding of that pin. It breaks like glass and makes that line to the end of the stretch of molecules and then, POP!

Off, goes the chain. That friction is still occurring. You need to count 21 pins, then measurement like a tire [wear] block in a rain groove channel. Once you touch it, the tire is done. Once you reach 323 mm (12.7 in.) at the chain pin length, she is played and so are the sprockets.
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I'm going to groom you, Rookie, into thinking common sense applications. Guys will take grease, slap some in their palm then pack a bearing? I take a plastic baggie, corner a blob of grease, drop the bearing in that same corner, twist both together in that pressure/vacuum, I coat a lot more under pressure, yes or no?

So, here I am taking grease in my palm and now squeeze the grease in whatever pressure I can get that grease to go into. Chain lube sprays over the parts like rain on a roof. I take grease and jam them into the openings like a flood, it fills the house to the roof. Whatever was in the way was squeeze out and the grease is in there now. Yes or no?

Once you reach 323 mm (12.7 in.) at the chain pin length, she is played and so are the sprockets.

I'm all good with the measurement. There was still about 1/8" away from service limit. The chain has not stretched since I measured -- yup, i checked it in 3 different spots on thew chain -- all were the same measurement.

Chain lube sprays over the parts like rain on a roof. I take grease and jam them into the openings like a flood, it fills the house to the roof. Whatever was in the way was squeeze out and the grease is in there now. Yes or no?

My opinion is not as good as yours but I would say the spray lube is as good as your grease. The spray lube is thin like water when first applied and seeps into all the cracks in the chain. The the heavy axle grease or lithium or watever you squish into the cracks and crevices will liquify when heated up by chain friction and work into the chain same as spray. I believe the grease is actually the best lube because it is soft at all temperatures. The spray lubes - wax anyway - that stuff is sticky as pitch when cold. I doubt it lubes much until it heats up from chain and engine running. I used a thick coat of grease on my chain for storage to help prevent ant rust that might take place.

Unless I'm mistaken here....the x,O ring chains are self lubricating...meaning the rings hold the "factory" grease inside...where the pins are at.If grease is "getting out",it's time for a new chain.No grease should be escaping.... period.The chain can appear just fine,but with close examination,if it's leaking grease,you're gonna see evidence soon of kinks.And yer gonna feel it vibing as you're rollin at different speeds.Signs of leaking seals are spatters of either GREY or reddish colored spots that "look" like grease dabs on the rim.But the center of the spot will be "wet" appearing,and the outside edges of the spot will appear "dry",like dust.Lubing the outside of the rollers is cool,ya,and the chain plates...ya...you're just keeping the O,X rings pliable.They show putting the lube on the plates between the inner bushings and the outer plates.It does not enter the O ring sealed part(the lube contacts the outer surface of the o-ring itself).Anyone suggesting using an O ring(or X) chain that is no longer sealing via the rings is asking someone to take their life in their hands.IT WILL NOT BE SAFE.Once you start losing that inner seal,you've basically got metal on metal....grease,90 wt oil,chain lube will NOT lubricate it sufficiently to withstand the torque and tensile pull.Just asking for a snapped chain with the attendant wheel lock and subsequent crash.Just my .02.17,000 miles is a good run for a chain like ours.My first one got somewhere around 12,000.The last one got around 22,000.(guess I finally learned how to take care of itLOL)....get a new chain Rook....you're life's too important to try to "see how long it'll go".It's YOUR life,not someone else's.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/3/2010 @ 8:21 PM *

-O- << Call that the chain spray oil level inside the roller. See how the top of the 0 is tall order I was mentioning about the roof leak and where that oil might thin out, lubing the other half of the inner chain it did not lube? Fling is to lube the lower rung so the oil flies out to the other side of the chain is that theory, right? Spray both sides and lose half that lube from fling? But if I squeeze grease through that hole under pressure, did that lube the pin totally?

You have to look at that part where it did not oil on the spray vs. forced pressure. Forced pressure replaces grit internally for argument sake. Lube, you tumble the debris inside, or what did not flow out with the excess on the hell-O-? Lower -0- level looking like I'd tumble my grit?

See the lube process techniques? I think the pressured lube is one measurement. Once that factory lube is squeeze, rolled, evaporates from heat, that pin will make metal contact and there is your second wear or stretch numbers all factored in is my guess.

get a new chain Rook....you're life's too important to try to "see how long it'll go".It's YOUR life,not someone else's.

Thanks Blue. Started the season with about 14,000 miles. I guess pushing the chain another 3000 was far enough. We'll get a new chain on there pretty soon.