For Racing Purposes Only

This is for the 14R's only. I have a t-body to sync and the bike is on the rack. It is such a mess, I have to snake out pc harnesses after the other so I can get to a sync screw, let alone the above hoses snaking up at the sync nipples.

I disconnect the blue 2-wire connector off the right side mount that holds the idle air sensor and the fairing filter [rattle my lips with my index finger] unit. Once the connector is removed, I'm waiting for the 555 timer to ping me a dash code. And up pops one of the lower orange round CEL logos. This stands for; check engine light, (M) pg. 19 in the owner's manual.

The ohm meter is set to the 20v scale: let's see who has what value is going to it? With key on, I've already charged the battery overnight and that static read at 12.83v a day later if not skipped 2 days. So as this took minutes to do, I plug the charger back on, read 14+ volts cooking the battery, the key is on, and here it sits with that 12.3v bleed off at the blue connector.

Where was that, oh here, let me try this piggyback ohm resistor off of some home appliance I tore apart and saved. Both wire ends enter that 12.3v wire loop and I sit and wait for the ping off the 555 timer.

Bingo. Let's try this resistor: closed my eyes and chose one.
Bingo. I'm not about to try any more, the ping flipped the flop and that settles that.

Whereas, I may now use the hose for a sync connect, I plug this off and lay it where it sits with a zip-tie. I then commandeer the other side of the lip-flipper part, use that for a second sync hose; I now have both main shafts to sync and plug that hose off. This is the quick and dirty, if the sync is crisp, this was close enough. If it hangs, back to all 4 throttle body plug-ins and sync from there.

So for racing purposes the recap says:

1. The weight is reduced out of the fairing.
2. The yellow round CEL is turned off via, know watt 1 and 0 stands for.
3. The faster hookup of the sync check before the next outing if not next round.
4. The point is to beat you clowns. Say, sea my hoses going showing [nowhere fool] and look over here mr. inspector, see my dashit happening with any light coming on fandango? Well, what the fuck you ski roo'inn wit me for is go find those cheaters. Look at that dumb fuck walk away he forgot to check the fairing... OK, where do I line up?

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/12/2014 @ 1:19 AM *

I'd definitely rather NOT have to tear my whole system apart to do a TB synch.I have the Manometer...and the tubes and all.Are you saying I can get this done without mucking things up?;)I aint even sure it's needing a synch....most likely not...(I keep putting it off)...just for the reasons stated.
The plugs change was fairly easy.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/14/2014 @ 8:29 AM *

I have two hoses to plug into, see where the shafts are? They are off just slightly. Would or could I tell the difference? Yes. Could I muck up the idle taking hoses off? For now, maybe. For the dongle [lack of a better word] the {PAIR} light goes off, but I have not fired it off to see if the light comes back on. PAIR wise, I think this will work. Hose wise, I have that one move to make under the throttle body. Without that 90° head to angle up there and adjust, the mano's are useless or any sync tool. A view would tell if she needs moving to center again. So do you have that L type of screwdriver to get at that shaft sync screw?

Because that's about all I'm going to do for now. Removing that idle air system is a 4 wire hack and I'm not too sure we can loop that... Maybe. So as far as sync goes, just center the shafts with the main shaft screw and call it a day. The low speeds are preset at the factory, but nowhere near it being smooth with half the air screws closed and half open somewhere for the emissions canister.

UPDATE: Green light

The flip has flopped!

<<< Race Face On!

Next round is a 4 wire idle air assist sensor.

I wanna say the preliminary looks promising.

Shakedown soon.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/23/2014 @ 8:11 PM *

Yes...I do have that 90 degree wrench.

Mine is just a little off sync, but I have too many pc harnesses under there to get that 90 in there.

when i did mine , i moved a few things out of the way , used the motion pro hex tool ( a must ) , a spot mirror on a stick ( helped alot ) flash light and last a long needle nose with the bent tip was a life saver . once a had the right tools it was a breeze . it was off a little and needed some fine tunning . also i have read to not touch the center screw ? i did to sync the left banks to the right banks and it worked fine . it was more work taking apart and putting back together but happy i did it .

star, there is a tuning procedure that sort of goes like this.

Factory sets up the sync and emissions tubes to suck in [#3] to pump the diaphragm and that pushes that 'vapor/overflowed tank fluid' out to [#4] throttle body and into that cylinder. The other 2 low speed screws are closed.

We just ran thru a canister type emissions bike. I don't know if you have the canister or where you read not to touch the center shaft plate screw? Hell, that's the first thing I chase. I just came back from a test run so what I can say about what looks like a gen1, yes, you can get away with syncing the 4 air screws, but we are missing a smoothing/linear/smoothing effect if you don't add the center screw too.

My way of syncing a gen1 body is to close the low speed screws first, but never let the taper of the needle touch the hole of the t-body. My sync is going to clean that up so I don't anal a screw home, bottom it out I start counting? Watch the manometer instead. You can buy the needles, you can't buy the body alone so why touch either. Make sense?

We have those needles closed and now we can see the pulse of the plates being off. So we sync that center screw and screw whoever threw you that curve be it the book or whoever told you. I first want a leak or a compression test of the HEALTH of each cylinder or my vacuum is thrown off. I have to compensate for a low cylinder. Get it? Poor idle I'm pulling [both] plate(s) open? 'Them days is oh beer!'

I'll buy the beer you tell me how you move that one plate when they are both machined perfectly in line on one shaft. So we took the best [highest pressure/lowest leak number] of whom? 1-2 is the same as if I used 3 or 4 vacuum [nipple] to set the sync of the shafts. So here we are finding both peak pressures of bank 1 and bank 2. Who is high on each bank> now we sync the blades, let the others lag. Unless you want to test and run a sync of a low vs. high bank pressure. Either way, the low screws compensate once you see the other 2 sync hoses attached.

If it were me, I want both high banks to push equally down. Then my idle will be more stable. I match blades to a low/high, my idle is going to hang. So look at it that way and see how that smoothing effect comes in, how the response will come sooner, less plate lag... 'Don't touch the centers.' I wanna smack them upside the head look at the bank for bank, can't move 4 plates. Make sense yet?

If we move the needle out a 1/4 turn and now match the other needles to this one, use #3 or #2 as your base number so the other 3 feed off that 1 vacuum. Do we see a lot of pre-shaft-sycning we need to go thru checking that compression: as our enemy-factor? So when we talk about sync, we want the health report first.

Race wise (wink-wink) we close the lows and sync the center screw. Why? No air means more rich entering past that plate, remember. Whatever air moves over and under that main plate, there is that one screw feeding air too. And if you close the air, more fuel enters... Ask my AFR meter how it knows?

Gen1 low speed screw setup. I have another body under the 14's body. So to deconfuse some holes and nipples.

1. Little hole in 14 body ~ This is the vacuum suck the intake air pressure sensor needs (IAP).
2. The 2 other holes hidden on the other side or, if you look at the lower body nipples ~ Sync hole.
3. The 3rd hole is how that emissions uses the suck&dump plumbing and use those hose nips ~ Emiss nip.

Like we went thru, I have a broken mirror piece I tape to said angle. I use a stick light with a little LED at the tip. I have a 90° handle for the main screw and I hand open the lows to 1/4 out, once the main plates are sunk and out of the way. Here is the meguyver to my madness.

First try this morning and the throttle ping is an abort. Back to the drawing board. Bucks and spits like a mother. Pulled it at an intersection, both yellows lit and I could hardly make it past the intersection.