Hello everyone. Back again with another problem! My clutch is slipping! I’m new to the hydraulic clutch’s and what not. First happened a few weeks ago pulled clutch in and dumped it to do a small rolling burnout and later noticed slipping then it went back to normal. Tonight I took the bike to the strip made four runs then the bike started slipping. Let the bike sit and cool and it was worse than before! Started heading home about 80 miles and slipped anytime I gave it a little throttle then it would just start grabbing almost fine again. Stopped at a gas station for 5-10 minutes took off and couldn’t give it more than 1/4 throttle without it slipping and me going nowhere! Almost home and the bike started grabbing again! Wheelies in first and second then slips the rest. So does this sound like a clutch pack issue or something else? Thanks!

* Last updated by: littleZ14 on 11/24/2018 @ 10:18 PM *

Remove the oil fill cap and give the oil a smell. If it's not oil kind of smell, but a cooked out burn kind of smell, yes it's the clutch. Guys taking the most heat/friction are the few beginning plates deep in the pack. Those are first to collapse on each other and here is where you are feeding the clutch at the light. If you dump the clutch lever faster, hook up sooner, yeah, big bog at the light. So it's more an in between of the rev and feeding the lever out slowly to release and not bog with a faster clutch release.

The pack is shot. Dump the sump cover and clean the clutch debris of those burnt plates. Rebuild with all new frictions and steels. Buy the fattest stacking plate so you have lots of meat for the drags. Adds more tension on the springs at the pressure plate.

Stick with OEM. Barnetts seem to stick/drag with lever pulled in. Might be the material used. OEM's seem to last longer, create less drag, etc.

Dump the sump cover and clean the clutch debris of those burnt plates

I hope that be the same as dropping the oil pan and cleaning the oil pickup before he blows #3 rod

Sump cover? So do I need to drop the oil pan? I’ll be pulling everything out and inspecting it this weekend.

Sump cover is the same as saying oil pan.
Clutchit = clutch shit, debris, pad remains, friction material.
Dump the sump = you turn over the sump cover, dump the clutchit out of the pan/cover.
Clutch center and clutch outer will be packed with clutchit. Clean every little spec off with brake clean using the extension tube to get behind things as well.

Bike Industry Nomenclature I use:

Wet sump = 14's engine.
Dry sump = 1970's cb750 engine.

14's sump cover. (parts book says oil cover)
CB's sump cover. (parts book says oil cover)

AND CLEAN THE OIL PICK UP SCREEN on the oil pick up tube otherwise you drop the pan for nothing

I’ll be looking everything over this weekend. I currently use castrol 10-40 full synthetic. I’ve seen some people say do and don’t use synthetic for clutch reasons.. any recommendations on oil then..? Also the bike has brocks clutch springs in it..

* Last updated by: littleZ14 on 11/27/2018 @ 3:36 PM *

Hello, little Z!! Kawasaki recommends their full synthetic in the owner's manual--along with two others.
Seems like full synthetic should be safe---
Good luck!!
Paul

i drag race the shit out of mine and use rotella non syn but i change oil every 20 passes

Little update as I just got around to doing it. Took the clutch pack out inspected and most plates had three tiny bluing hot spots except for the final steel plate in the back it got pretty hot in two places other than that the fibers looked fine and plenty thick... put back together and first gear felt good and released much closer to the bar. I torqued the clutch springs to 78 in pounds per the manual which felt pretty loose. But none the less I have yet to ride it and see.